Based on my experience, frequent topping of the lawn is one of the keys to thick healthy grass. I used to wait until the lawn was nearing the height for a bush hog and then lop off about 3/4 of the length in one pass after I got home from work. The lawn was never as nice as I thought it should be and it was due to wrong cutting height, cutting at the wrong time of day, and watering at the wrong time of day (in-ground irrigation system fed by a well).
Last May, I decided I was going to perform an aggressive renovation and essentially start over. This included deep scarification, plug aeration, overseeding, top dressing, and frequent watering for the first six weeks. For inspiration and guidance, I followed the instructions from Shaun's YouTube channel
LawnRight Lawn Care. Resources for homeowner lawn care in Germany nearly doesn't exist.
For the first two weeks, my lawn looked like the surface of the moon, with a bit of green fuzz. However, by the sixth week, it was ready for the first mow and looked great. After a lot of initial hard work, my lawn has never looked better, and I was mowing it in December and early January. The growth slowed down a bit, but picked up again in late March.
My process during the growing season includes:
1. Irrigate the lawn and flower beds for an hour at least twice a week at 0600. My Hunter irrigation system accounts for rain and extreme heat and will adjust the run time for each zone accordingly. Watering in the evening is a recipe for fungus since the leaves will be wet during the night. The distribution and selection of sprinkler heads ensures the lawn receives the correct amount of water at a rate that can be absorbed by the soil.
2. Cut the tops of the leaves three times a week no later than 1000. This gives the grass the rest of the day to recover from the minor stress of cutting. Cutting in the evening does not allow the plant to recover with the available sunlight.
3. Find the optimum height for the mix of grass, which in my case is about two inches. My lawn is a blend of 60-percent tall fescue, 20-percent ryegrass, and 20-percent Kentucky bluegrass.
4. Spoon feed the lawn after every mowing with 500ml of seaweed extract and 400g of water soluble urea (46-0-0) tank mixed in 11 liters of water in my backpack sprayer. This allows me to make two passes over the 176 square meter lawn and ensures an even distribution. Let the sprinkler run ten minutes to soak in the mixture.
5. Every four weeks, add 60ml of a humic acid and iron additive to the mix above.
6. Every four weeks, separately spray a wetting agent over the lawn and let the sprinkler system run for ten minutes. The wetting agent is expensive, but a little goes a long way and the effects are worth it.
7. Dethatch (scarify) in the Spring and Fall. Even with cutting just the tops, I can still fill a 120-liter bag with thatch, but this is nothing compared to the eleven 120-liter bags I removed in May.
This sounds like a lot of effort, and it was initially. However, I'm retired and working on my lawn pleases me as much as woodworking...maybe a bit more. After I established the rhythm, the mowing and feeding takes about 45 minutes from shed doors open to shed doors closed. This May, I'll do another minor renovation to apply the second dose of overseeding.