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Basic router question

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Basic router question

Postby Wizard9999 » 29 Jun 2015, 20:09

Despite owning two routers I have never actually used one, not sure if I should :lol: or :cry: .

Anyway, I want to build a fence for my router table along the lines of the one built by Steve Ramsey on YouTube. To allow the split fence at the front to slide I will be sinking two tee-bolts into each of the two split fences which pass through into the main fence, these then need to have a slot just big enough for each bolt to slide left to right / right to left in. I clamped the parts together and drilled the holes for the tee-bolts to pass through into the two pieces of fence (still need to make a recess for the tee-bolt head). In the back fence this will be the start of the slots.

Now, The hole I drilled is 6.5mm diameter and I have a 6.3mm straight cutting bit for my Makita palm router. So what I was thinking I could do is to set the depth such that a small amount of the cutter is exposed and insert this into the hole. Then with the fence on to keep it straight and a stop where the slot needs to end I could start up the router and start making the channel. After each pass, remove the router from the work piece, lower the cutter a bit and repeat the procedure.

The worry I have is that as the cutter is pretty much exactly the same size as the hole I am starting each pass from is it dangerous to start the router with the cutter in the hole, even if I do it in a lot of small passes?

To point out the obvious I did not buy the plunge base with the Makita and I don't have a cutter the right size to use in the Triton.

Thoughts?

Terry.
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Re: Basic router question

Postby 9fingers » 29 Jun 2015, 20:18

It is not ideal but doable.
Set up two fences so that the baseplate cannot move from side to side at all. Preferably set up end stops too so all you have to do is concentrate on moving the router carefully and if it does want to kick, there is no where for it to go apart from the wanted trajectory.

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Re: Basic router question

Postby Rob » 29 Jun 2015, 20:28

Its not a good idea to have the router start while the cutter is in contact with anything. Normal procedure for your problem terry would be to start at normal height and then while gripping the router, "plunge" into the work to your first pass depth and reference off the fence til the end of the cut then rinse repeat at a new depth. Your palm router doesn't plunge?

Your Triton is a 1/2" arbor isn't it? Why not spin over and borrow my 1/2" cutter set and use that?

Thought not recommended, the fact your hole is only marginally smaller than the bit, you probably would get away with holding the router in situ. If you ensure the work is well clamped and you hold the router firmly and well pressed flat into the work, that 0.2mm difference wont jolt it much. But it isn't ideal. In fact, thinking about it, don't do it. Learn to do it properly before cutting corners like that.
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Re: Basic router question

Postby Rob » 29 Jun 2015, 20:29

just realised I crossed in the ether with Bob :-)
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Re: Basic router question

Postby Wizard9999 » 29 Jun 2015, 20:46

Rob wrote:Its not a good idea to have the router start while the cutter is in contact with anything. Normal procedure for your problem terry would be to start at normal height and then while gripping the router, "plunge" into the work to your first pass depth and reference off the fence til the end of the cut then rinse repeat at a new depth. Your palm router doesn't plunge?


No, in the end I was persuaded by a comment on UKW that at nearly £100 for the plunge and tilting base it was almost the cost of another router, so I decided by adding only another £30 to £40 to that I could buy something like the baby Triton.

Rob wrote:Your Triton is a 1/2" arbor isn't it? Why not spin over and borrow my 1/2" cutter set and use that?


The Triton is a beast and all jokes about butch ness aside having handled it today whilst putting it onto the plate I really do think the router table is the only fitting place for it. Hence my dilemma, as the easy answer in some ways would be to get the right cutter, I'll no doubt need one anyway. But the offer is very kind.

Rob wrote:Thought not recommended, the fact your hole is only marginally smaller than the bit, you probably would get away with holding the router in situ. If you ensure the work is well clamped and you hold the router firmly and well pressed flat into the work, that 0.2mm difference wont jolt it much. But it isn't ideal. In fact, thinking about it, don't do it. Learn to do it properly before cutting corners like that.


It didn't feel right to me, hence my question, though to be precise the hole is slightly bigger than the cutter, not smaller.

Sounds like I need that third router :lol: .

Terry.
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Re: Basic router question

Postby Wizard9999 » 29 Jun 2015, 20:50

9fingers wrote:It is not ideal but doable.
Set up two fences so that the baseplate cannot move from side to side at all. Preferably set up end stops too so all you have to do is concentrate on moving the router carefully and if it does want to kick, there is no where for it to go apart from the wanted trajectory.

Bob


Thanks Bob. Stops were in my plan, you mention two fences, do you mean actually attached to the router? I have the fence it came with to run along the nearest edge, but don't think it will take a second one. Or is your thinking more that in addition to the stops I clam a straight edge on the other side. That way I would in effect creat a channel for the router to run down. Of maybe you don't mean to use the fence that comes with the router at all and rather to clamp stops at each end and straight edges on both sides, that way the router would be trapped and could only move down the channel or go up :?

Terry.
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Re: Basic router question

Postby 9fingers » 29 Jun 2015, 21:05

No I did not mean to use the router fence but two parallel strips attached to the workpiece to stop the router going anywhere but where you want it to.

Another way is to do the job on the table with two parallel strips firmly clamped to the table and slide the work between the strips.

Same idea just inverted.

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Re: Basic router question

Postby Robert » 29 Jun 2015, 22:43

I'd suggest you take up the offer of a cutter for the triton.

It may be big and powerful but it will be easy to control especially if it is only running a 6mm cutter. I use a dewalt 625 (equally large and powerful) for all my handheld routing and for a plunge started slot in a panel it is fine.

My large triton is in the table permanently but I'm sure the plunge will have a depth stop. just set it and off you go. have a practice on some scrap as you've never used a router before.
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Re: Basic router question

Postby Rob » 29 Jun 2015, 23:05

I'm in tomorrow morning if you're free Terry, we can have a play around if you like.
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Re: Basic router question

Postby Wizard9999 » 30 Jun 2015, 15:37

Went to Rob's this morning with work pieces and my router. Once the clearance around the router bit from the hole I had drilled had been inspected he said he thought it would be perfectly safe to start the router with the bit inserted a short distance into the hole. We were very careful and only advanced the cutter a little at a time, so it took about six passes, but all four slots were cut with no drama, loss of digits or destruction of router table fence components.

Phew, glad it turned out to not be as difficult as I had feared.

Terry.
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