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Box construction

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Re: Box construction

Postby Rod » 24 Dec 2016, 11:47

Can you convert it to a push on lid - you cannot line the base as you've got internal fitments but perhaps you could line the top with a thin protruding section.

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Re: Box construction

Postby RogerS » 24 Dec 2016, 11:57

Wizard9999 wrote:Well SWMBO is getting a jumper for Christmas, as I totally stuffed up fitting the hinges :(

Terry.


What's gone wrong, Terry ? Any pictures ?

Does this article help any ? http://www.peterseftonfurnitureschool.c ... hinges.pdf

When I fit small hinges I lay the hinge open on one part of the box and draw round it with a Japanese marking knife. I gently tap a sharp chisel along the lines. You have to be careful..too hard and you end up with a dip in the wood ..too soft and you don't achieve very much. Then I will mark the thickness if the leaf using a marking gauge..I use the Veritas one. Then gently make chisel cuts all along at 45 degrees but not as far as the leaf depth line. I will break out as much of this as I can...but gently. Then clamp a piece of 90 degree wood in line with the leaf depth line and then gently pare away using the block as a guide.
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Re: Box construction

Postby Andyp » 25 Dec 2016, 19:58

Oh Dear Terry, sorry to hear about the mishap. Not under the influence I hope ;)

When you go from shoe box to match box and you still can't get it right then give up. But until then most things are fixable, especially to the less trained eyes.

I hope to see the recovery soon.
cheers

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Re: Box construction

Postby Doug » 26 Dec 2016, 09:08

Mark it down to experience Terry, mishaps are how we learn not only from what happened but from how we resolve the problem if possible.
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Re: Box construction

Postby Phil » 26 Dec 2016, 09:18

RogerS wrote:
Does this article help any ? http://www.peterseftonfurnitureschool.c ... hinges.pdf




Thanks for the link Roger.

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Re: Box construction

Postby Woodbloke » 26 Dec 2016, 14:08

Wizard9999 wrote:... as I totally stuffed up fitting the hinges :(

Terry.


If it's any consolation, fitting butt hinges as you need to on this type of box is really hard and fitting any sort of brassware is difficult. The easiest box hinges to fit are Neat hinges, where all you need is four passes on a router table with an 8mm bit and the the things just slide in. Once the router table is set up, the total time to machine and fit the hinges is about ten minutes, whereas butts could take a couple of hours and even then there's no guarantee that you'll get them spot on first time. It's a very hit n'miss affair :(

That said, there's a fix somewhere for most goofs unless they fall into the catastrophic category, in which case the job's bandsaw fodder - Rob
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Re: Box construction

Postby Malc2098 » 03 Jan 2017, 17:12

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Re: Box construction

Postby Mike G » 03 Jan 2017, 18:47

RogerS wrote:.......When I fit small hinges I lay the hinge open on one part of the box and draw round it with a Japanese marking knife. I gently tap a sharp chisel along the lines. You have to be careful..too hard and you end up with a dip in the wood ..too soft and you don't achieve very much. Then I will mark the thickness if the leaf using a marking gauge..I use the Veritas one. Then gently make chisel cuts all along at 45 degrees but not as far as the leaf depth line. I will break out as much of this as I can...but gently. Then clamp a piece of 90 degree wood in line with the leaf depth line and then gently pare away using the block as a guide.


I've only ever made a couple of small decorative boxes, and one of those had wooden hinges. My tip is to do it as Roger suggests, but instead of just holding the hinge in place whilst you mark around it with a Stanley knife ((:)), put one screw in to hold it temporarily. The hole will be in the right place when it comes to the final fitting, and it makes cock-ups with marking out the position so much less likely.
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Re: Box construction

Postby RogerS » 03 Jan 2017, 18:57

That's a good tip, Mike. although I have found that it won't work very well with some smaller hinges from the, shall we say, budget end of the market because the holes do not match up when you flip the hinge over to finally mount them.
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Re: Box construction

Postby Mike G » 03 Jan 2017, 20:18

I would screw it on the right way up, Roger. I do that with all butt hinges, BTW.
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Re: Box construction

Postby RogerS » 03 Jan 2017, 22:51

Mike G wrote:I would screw it on the right way up, Roger. I do that with all butt hinges, BTW.


I was taught to place them upside down so that you had the hinge part downwards. That got the spacing correct to the edge of the wood.
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Re: Box construction

Postby chataigner » 04 Jan 2017, 12:19

Most of it's been said as far as fitting hinges goes, but I've one tip to add :

Because chiseling out the rebate for the hinge is one of the hardest things to get right, make it easier by selecting straight grained timber. If the grain is not parallel to the rebate then its much harder to get right. Even if the grain is not parallel to the board edge, you can always angle the component to get it parallel to the grain.

Bye the way, I'm with Roger on placing hinges upside down for marking.
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Re: Box construction

Postby Mike G » 04 Jan 2017, 12:30

chataigner wrote: By the way, I'm with Roger on placing hinges upside down for marking.


So am I, ordinarily, but not if there is an unreliability about their casting.
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Re: Box construction

Postby chataigner » 04 Jan 2017, 12:35



If you have a suitable router cutter this works well, but the jig is over complicated. Instead of cutting two dadoes for the fence, cut two notches for the hinge, one on each side. With a stop block guiding the work on the TS it's no problem to get them identical, then you simply turn it around for the second side. That way you can also simply fit the fence to the edge - no need for a dadoe.
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