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Door seals

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Door seals

Postby Mike G » 14 Sep 2017, 08:01

I am shortly going to be making a couple of front doors, and have started thinking about seals.

The door surrounds are green oak posts, and a 4 centred arch in green oak. The stops will be seasoned oak, and planted on the posts to line with a rebate cut along the under edge of the spandrels forming the arch. None of this suggests easy answers for sealing the doors. The outer porch door will be vertical boards and 4 ledges. The inner door will be almost 75mm thick, being vertical boards on one side and a raised grid of timbers on the inside face sandwiching insulation and a sheet of ply.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to the best approach to sealing the doors?
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Re: Door seals

Postby MJ80 » 14 Sep 2017, 08:28

Hi Mike
Are you going to be rebating the door edge like they do over here in Germany? That would give you a couple of options for compression or wiping seals.
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Re: Door seals

Postby Mike G » 14 Sep 2017, 09:30

Such that the door sits partially outside the frame, you mean? If so, no. I am after a very traditional look.
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Re: Door seals

Postby stu » 14 Sep 2017, 14:12

Not quite got my head round all the details but I would think that Aquamac 21 would be ok. Its a wiping seal which fits in a groove in the rebate. Preferable to compressiln seals on timber doors which dont have multipoit locks. I put it in the corner of the rebate, but if your using t&gv boards youll need to move it away from the stop a bit so that it doesnt fly over the v joint.

Works well with a 3mm gap on 57mm doors with no leading edge. For a 75mm you'll probably need a leading edge or bigger gap. Are you sure you need a 75mm door? You can get 21mm insulation in a 57 (with 18mm planks either side), or even 25 if you are willing to think about the make up of the door. (7mm veneer/9mm tricoya/25mm insulated sub frame/9mm tricoya/7mm veneer well insulated and very stable!)

You can use a specific aq21 cutter which runs off a bearing to fit it.

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Re: Door seals

Postby Mike G » 14 Sep 2017, 15:03

Just because of the nature of the door, green oak framing, and arch head, Stu, the seal will need to be in the stop, not the frame. This seal (Aquamac 21) looks as though it would work in compression as well, so it is still worth considering, although I am also looking at bulb-type sections (a tube, essentially).

The build up of the insulated door is (out to in):

-20mm boards
-25 Celotex
-6 oak faced ply
-20 oak lattice (like wainscotting)

That's a total of 71mm. My biggest problem with a door this thick is finding a lock with key long enough to reach from the outside, particularly as I want to mount a rim lock on the inside, rather than have a mortise lock.
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Re: Door seals

Postby stu » 14 Sep 2017, 15:49

Fair enough - I'd be a bit concerned that if the door twisted/bowed you'd come off the seal and you have an air gap, especially with an unbalanced construction.

If you use a larger bubble that would negate it to some extent, but compression seals, even bubbles, offer quite a lot of resistance to being compressed.

Interesting challenge, I'll think some more.
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Re: Door seals

Postby Woodbloke » 14 Sep 2017, 15:53

Mike G wrote: My biggest problem with a door this thick is


...lifting it :lol: - Rob
I no longer work for Axminster Tools & Machinery.
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Re: Door seals

Postby 9fingers » 14 Sep 2017, 15:54

Mike. I'd happily lengthen some keys for you if you get stuck.
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Re: Door seals

Postby Mike G » 14 Sep 2017, 16:50

That's very kind of you Bob, and I'll probably take you up on that. That square section spindle-thingy that goes through the knob and the latch will also be too short. My weld-then-grind approach may be a bit cruder than your milling machine!
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Re: Door seals

Postby meccarroll » 17 Sep 2017, 07:16

Flipper type seals work best in my opinion. If you try to use bubble type and compress they don't tend to work as well as flipper type. If you get a bit of twist in the door the seal becomes ineffective where as flipper type will still work.

You could try a mock up in a piece of ply cut to shape to see how it will work. I'm pretty sure I used flipper seals in an arched top door a while back.

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