It is currently 29 Mar 2024, 14:02
Woodbloke wrote:Andy, I'm intrigued why you've gone down the chop saw road? - Rob
RogerS wrote:I'd go for a roller rather than balls.
Malc2098 wrote:What is the longest you are like to want to cut, Andy?
Andyp wrote:Malc2098 wrote:What is the longest you are like to want to cut, Andy?
2m. Might sound daft but I reckon the Kapex but be the best way of accurately cutting tenon cheeks on the end of 2m lengths.
Andyp wrote:Any recommendations for roller/roller ball stands? Have you made your own? How?
Roller balls appear to be more versatile.
I want at least one to support long lengths on the Kapex.
I could just buy a systainer but I dont like working on the floor and there is insufficient space on the bench.
Andyp wrote:Woodbloke wrote:Andy, I'm intrigued why you've gone down the chop saw road? - Rob
Retail therapy in a moment of weakness.
The little I have done with it so far has shown it is far easier than TS for cross cutting. Angled cuts are a breeze and very accurate. I probably could have done with the blade tilt, but you never know.
I have a wooden floor and skirtings to lay as soon and my eldest provides us with a spare bedroom.
Moteyi wrote:Andyp wrote:Any recommendations for roller/roller ball stands? Have you made your own? How?
Roller balls appear to be more versatile.
I want at least one to support long lengths on the Kapex.
I could just buy a systainer but I dont like working on the floor and there is insufficient space on the bench.
I can't really see why you would need any kind of roller for use with the kapex. Rollers are only really any use for supporting long lengths on machines like planer thicknessers or on the outfeed of a table saw or spindle where the material is moving, and even then they are a monumental (roller) ball ache. For the kapex you just need a support that is level with the bed of the saw and if the saw is fixed then perhaps some form of fence to keep material square to the blade - or am I missing something?
Woodbloke wrote:Andyp wrote:Woodbloke wrote:Andy, I'm intrigued why you've gone down the chop saw road? - Rob
Retail therapy in a moment of weakness.
The little I have done with it so far has shown it is far easier than TS for cross cutting. Angled cuts are a breeze and very accurate. I probably could have done with the blade tilt, but you never know.
I have a wooden floor and skirtings to lay as soon and my eldest provides us with a spare bedroom.
That makes sense but the Kapex is a pretty spendiferous way to lay a floor and bang a bit of skirting up on the walls - Rob
Jimmy Mack wrote:Andy, well worth getting a z60 tooth (neg,alt bevel) blade for the KS60, I found the standard kit blade pulled stock and wandered on compound and angle cuts due to its lack of nashers... Great for quick less accurate work in softwood though.
I put a 3rd party blade in mine, if you'd like details I'll PM a link.
Sent from my Moto G (5) using Tapatalk
Robert wrote:
My SCMS is above bench level so the extra support consists of whatever wood scrap + ply spacers are to hand and are just piled on the bench. Never been a problem.
hopefully you won't be disappointed. The round handrail and 9x2 was necessary to get it high enough for the machines. The extra rampy angled bit made what use to be double handed work easy enough to do on your own.Woodster wrote:I’ve needed a stand for the odd job for a while now but been put off by the usual offerings. That Triton stand however looks great. You’ve just cost me £30.00 Coley!
Coley wrote:I use these
Woodster wrote:I’ve needed a stand for the odd job for a while now but been put off by the usual offerings. That Triton stand however looks great. You’ve just cost me £30.00 Coley!
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