It is currently 28 Mar 2024, 19:51
9fingers wrote:Mark,
You might need to think a bit further about the wall structure. Firstly to decide which skin will be the load bearer for the roof. You have a big area and wind and snow load need to be considered first as well as the dead load of the roof and storage. There will also be calcs to do for surface water run off.
I think there will be regional data for the wind, rain and snow amounts that need to be taken into consideration. An inch of rain is going to give you best part of 1000 litres of rainwater to dispose of and the BCO will want to see that flash storms are not going to lead to flooding. Round here new builds are not allowed to discharge surface water into foul drains - I got a rebate and a continuing discount on my drainage bill by proving I used soakaways throughout. You might even want to consider storing this water to recycle for washing machines, loo flushing etc
With some walls being 4m long, consideration of stability will be needed and maybe 50mm thermalite won't be enough let alone risking not meeting habitable insulation requirements. You can build piers at the door openings to add stiffness but you might need a pier midway along some walls which might be avoidable by using a 100mm inner leaf.
Under floor dust ducts?? Make sure you can still access them as they will be bound to block at some.
stage. Maybe one straight run from the TS to the nearest wall if you must.
Bob
Mike G wrote:Mark, your walls are going to end up 300mm thick, unless you go for some sort of timer frame construction. You can't build a 50mm block wall. They're for thickening up brickwork or whatever, not building a stand-alone skin. And your cavity in a masonry construction needs to be 100mm, which you can either fully fill with mineral wool, or half fill with Celotex. As for a timber-framed solution......well, believe it or not, I have never done one with a brick outer skin, but I think it is usually a 50mm cavity between the brick and the timber frame. That would give you a wall thickness of 260 or so, depending on what your inner face was lined with.
9fingers wrote:The difference is that whilst Mike's workshop is bound to be adequate, he was not trying to meet building regs but you are.
Bob
TrimTheKing wrote:....
Regarding drains, there are no mains drains around here at all as we're in the middle of fields. There is a rainwater sewer under the main road but nobody is allowed to tap into that any more because it's already overloaded and can't cope. Our foul water goes into the septic tank then the 'cleaned' water goes away to another chamber which is then pumped up to another chamber which then runs away into the field and down to a culvert at the bottom of the field. .....
Mark
TrimTheKing wrote:9fingers wrote:The difference is that whilst Mike's workshop is bound to be adequate, he was not trying to meet building regs but you are.
Bob
That there is the kicker, I forgot Mike's didn't require BR!
I will post up measurements of the build as Mike said he would look at the roof details for me, so see what he says about that then I think I'll pay my mate a visit and get some Civil Eng advice.
Cheers
Mark
TerryWizard9999 wrote:Hold your horses Mark! Do you actually need building regs?
You say 37m2 external area. On your planning thread you said 5m x 5m and 3m x 4m sections, depending on how the 3m x 4m is oriented to your 5m x 5m, that is a perimeter of 26m or 28m. Either way, with a wall thickness of 0.3m, the walls amount to an area of more than 7m2 (7.8m2 or 8.4m2), which means your internal area ends up being less than 30m2. If I recall correctly the need for building regs is driven by an internal area of more than 30m2...
...unless you are within one metre of the boundary.
Terry.
Deejay wrote:Surely you'll need an outside tap for car washing etc. and you'll run the feed inside the building for aesthetics and frost protection.
TrimTheKing wrote:Terry
It's 37m/sq as the total footprint (including wall thickness) and I am bang up against the boundary, unless the outside of my hedge is the edge of the boundary, which I do need to check, but I am pretty sure that I am going to be hard up against the boundary.
Will of course be confirming this before doing anything, but am currently working on the assumption that I will be needing BR.
The other option of course is to bring it a meter and a bit from the boundary but that causes me some sideline issues between my office desk position and the personnel gate, and ideally I want to be able to see people coming into the gate. Also, ideally I want to keep it from encroaching into the garden as much as possible hence pushing back against the boundary. Will need weighing
9fingers wrote:I guess my single above ground 68mm duct containing water, power, telecoms and BRUB does not quite meet the current requirements then?
Bob
RogerS wrote:9fingers wrote:I guess my single above ground 68mm duct containing water, power, telecoms and BRUB does not quite meet the current requirements then?
Bob
BRUB...Building Regulations Unnecessary, Bro covers it, I think
RogerS wrote:And before anyone starts saying how long their water pipe is......I think I win the prize
.......
In common with everyone else in the UK (well, at least England), we are responsible for the pipe AFTER the waterboard stopcock. (and meter)
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