It is currently 29 Mar 2024, 00:04
DaveL wrote:I know Bob will be along shortly, but I would see if the fan is still firmly attached to the end of the motor shaft.
DaveL wrote:I know Bob will be along shortly, but I would see if the fan is still firmly attached to the end of the motor shaft.
9fingers wrote:DaveL wrote:I know Bob will be along shortly, but I would see if the fan is still firmly attached to the end of the motor shaft.
This is quite a low power motor and they don't always use a centrifugal switch to disconnect the starter winding but IF yours has a switch, it might have stuck shut and the starter winding is connected all the time. This will cause considerable extra heating.
hth
Bob
Woodster wrote:Surely everything runs hot in South Africa?
Sorry, I’ll get my coat.
9fingers wrote:Motors with centrifugal switches tend to make characterisitic noises.
When you switch off and as the motor slows there should be a click usually followed by a rubbing sound until the motor stops.
If there is a switch then there are more tests that you can do.
Do you have a multimeter capable of measuring resistance and ac voltage up to 250v ac?
A old fashioned filament light bulb fitted in a table lamp can be useful too.
Bob
9fingers wrote:Difficult to think that a bearing would heat up as much as you suggest and yet be free to turn and have little or no play.
Are there oil cups/nipples on the bearings - it possible on older motors. if nipples then unscrew and add a little oil - anything you have handy ever drips of the end of car dipstick will do. or just fill the cups and let it soak before run testing it.
If there are no oil points then up end the motor and make a reservoir from a ring of Blutak or similar (Plumbers Mait also good) and add oil inside the recess to let it soak into the bearing down the shaft. Not too much oil as you dont want excess in the rest of the motor.
Again let it soak before run testing it.
If that fixes the problem you can either leave well alone and be prepared to do this every year or so whenever it gets warm, or bite the bullet and fit a new bearing which will possibly see you out and the next user too.
If you think oil has got in and yet made no difference then we are possibly back to an electrical problem.
Bob
Phil wrote:9fingers wrote:Difficult to think that a bearing would heat up as much as you suggest and yet be free to turn and have little or no play.
Are there oil cups/nipples on the bearings - it possible on older motors. if nipples then unscrew and add a little oil - anything you have handy ever drips of the end of car dipstick will do. or just fill the cups and let it soak before run testing it.
If there are no oil points then up end the motor and make a reservoir from a ring of Blutak or similar (Plumbers Mait also good) and add oil inside the recess to let it soak into the bearing down the shaft. Not too much oil as you dont want excess in the rest of the motor.
Again let it soak before run testing it.
If that fixes the problem you can either leave well alone and be prepared to do this every year or so whenever it gets warm, or bite the bullet and fit a new bearing which will possibly see you out and the next user too.
If you think oil has got in and yet made no difference then we are possibly back to an electrical problem.
Bob
Ok, tried the oil bit.
Still heating up.
Will see if I can find a motor repair place close by.
9fingers wrote:Phil wrote:9fingers wrote:Difficult to think that a bearing would heat up as much as you suggest and yet be free to turn and have little or no play.
Are there oil cups/nipples on the bearings - it possible on older motors. if nipples then unscrew and add a little oil - anything you have handy ever drips of the end of car dipstick will do. or just fill the cups and let it soak before run testing it.
If there are no oil points then up end the motor and make a reservoir from a ring of Blutak or similar (Plumbers Mait also good) and add oil inside the recess to let it soak into the bearing down the shaft. Not too much oil as you dont want excess in the rest of the motor.
Again let it soak before run testing it.
If that fixes the problem you can either leave well alone and be prepared to do this every year or so whenever it gets warm, or bite the bullet and fit a new bearing which will possibly see you out and the next user too.
If you think oil has got in and yet made no difference then we are possibly back to an electrical problem.
Bob
Ok, tried the oil bit.
Still heating up.
Will see if I can find a motor repair place close by.
A bit too far to send it to me Phil
Bob
Woolf wrote:Phil these guys are excellent. Have rewound a number of motors for me.
Not quite in your neighborhood but not too far.
http://www.olgustavo.co.za/
Phil wrote:Hello Bob,
Thanks very much, I am happy to try anything 'once'.
9fingers wrote:Can I have some photos of the motor under the connection plate and where the capacitor connects in please.
Bob
Robert wrote:Assuming we are talking about a starting winding maybe a domestic light switch on a surface box? turn it on to start then off once it is running. Not as guaranteed to be off as a push to make but maybe more likely to have one laying around.
Not seen the pictures of course..
9fingers wrote:You will need a single pole push to make , let go to break switch capable of passing say 3 amps at 250v and to find room for it on the side of that box where your on off buttons are at the moment.
The action would be to push this switch first hold whilst the motor starts and then let go once it has got up to speed.
I've no idea what sort of electronic hobby type stockists you have in RSA but it wont be to sort of house wiring type switch but something much smaller. you might be limited for depth inside the box so that will be important in your choice.
Maybe have a look round and show me some examples of what you can get or instead give websites of likely suppliers and I can see what they have suitable.
Here is one suitable but RS known to be expensive so you might find the same elsewhere but cheaper
https://za.rs-online.com/web/p/push-but ... s/1035732/
For scale the threaded part is 1/4" 6.35mm diameter
Bob
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