It is currently 28 Mar 2024, 19:25
Mike G wrote:That looks so much like military stenciling on the side. Just what you might see on an old army Landrover. Buy yourself a can of cheap red paint from a car shop and just spray the whole thing, moving parts and all. It'll look a million dollars........
Well, that's how people normally restore old machinery, isn't it?
tracerman wrote:Re the strange horn-shaped extrusion/protrusion on the top front part , is there anything inside that
Andyp wrote:Nice one Terry. I love the nice arc pattern in the table.
9fingers wrote:Andyp wrote:Nice one Terry. I love the nice arc pattern in the table.
Ah yes the dreaded "arc of shame".....
9fingers wrote:Looks a good solid machine. The top to bottom dimension of the head should give good quill travel and rigidity - just compare with modern offerings!
Bargain price too!
9fingers wrote:I think there are two options on the motor Terry. Either I can modify you an inverter to give 240-400 conversion as well as 3 phase or there might be the possibility of modifying the motor to delta connection and use a standard 240 in - 240 out inverter.
I could do the latter if you dropped the motor off sometime whilst you are refurbishing the rest of the machine?
Either way the inverter would be of suitable size (and function) to replace the NVR and mount in the same place or maybe on the other side according to taste.
I can't quite read the motor plate power figure. Is it 0.5hp?
HTH
tracerman wrote:Terry , just an over-optimistic thought , if the pillar is same as another more modern drill , maybe you could acquire the toothed collared winding handle gizmo for your table adjustment scenario . ? . Well I did say over-optimistic didn't I . Carry on .
Steve
Wizard9999 wrote:
Yes, very helpful Bob, thanks. Taking the last point first, it is hard to read even in the flesh but I believe it does say 0.5hp on the motor plate.
In terms of three phase to single phase I guess there are two things in my mind, what is the best answer and some element of practicality. Is either of the options you suggest a lot better as a technical answer than the other? For both of the options, if I bring the motor down is the fitting of the inverter something that can be done at that time, i.e. does one or both of them mean a trip to drop off and then a trip on another occasion to pick up?
Thanks,
Terry.
tracerman wrote:Terry - yes I noticed this in the background in one of your extraction photos - very solid looking old beast .
Re the strange horn-shaped extrusion/protrusion on the top front part , is there anything inside that ?
Steve
9fingers wrote:To be honest once completed either solution will work just as well as the other.
One involves modifying the inverter and the other involves modifying the motor.
The latter can sometime be impractical if the insulation inside the motor is old and fragile and moving the wires causes cracks. That can only be judged once opened up.
9fingers wrote:As for number of trips, the motor is not a while you wait job and would need to come here to be done as I have the facilities here to sort out any problems if they arise.
Fitting a modified inverter should be something you can do yourself if you wanted to and involve no visits. The inverter is couriers to you, you wire it up, job done.
9fingers wrote:Whichever route you decide on, there is a second level of choice.
One is to use the keypad controls on the inverter to turn it on and off and to change speed with up and down arrow buttons or
two,to have a separate control box with big chunky buttons and a rotary knob for speed.
This second option also allows you to fit an emergency stop kick switch if you so desire which cannot be combined with option 1.
All options will provide a display with an indication of the speed it will start at from the off position. So in terms of mounting the inverter, you need to be able to see the display and to reach the keypad in option one or just to see the display in option two, with the buttons on a separate panel that is within reach.
Sometimes people are attached to the look and feel of the original NVR and usually it is possible to re-use those stop and start buttons to control the inverter and also fit the speed control knob on the same box.
Within reason, you can have what you want.
For info typical inverter for your job is 75mm wide, 175 tall and 175 deep.
Almost certain to be a Siemens Micromaster 440 case style A (the smallest one in the range) - you can google/ebay for pictures.
Prices vary according to how cheaply I can buy them in and how much work is needed for the controls.
I can also replace motor bearings if needed should you go down the motor modification route.
Full 12month warranty on all work and inverters. Repair or replace at my option.
Tech support offered for as long as I'm able to do it!
Bob
kirkpoore1 wrote:tracerman wrote:Terry - yes I noticed this in the background in one of your extraction photos - very solid looking old beast .
Re the strange horn-shaped extrusion/protrusion on the top front part , is there anything inside that ?
Steve
Steve:
The horn covers the top of the spindle when it's fully retracted. Here's a different example, on a Craftsman DP from the 1940's:
Wizard9999 wrote:Sorry for delay coming back to you, was getting some info first.9fingers wrote:To be honest once completed either solution will work just as well as the other.
One involves modifying the inverter and the other involves modifying the motor.
The latter can sometime be impractical if the insulation inside the motor is old and fragile and moving the wires causes cracks. That can only be judged once opened up.
Well it has been suggested to me that the drill dates from between 1935 and 1950, not sure if the motor will have been replaced since then but my guess is it may not respond well to being modified and that may just open up a whole can of worms.9fingers wrote:As for number of trips, the motor is not a while you wait job and would need to come here to be done as I have the facilities here to sort out any problems if they arise.
Fitting a modified inverter should be something you can do yourself if you wanted to and involve no visits. The inverter is couriers to you, you wire it up, job done.
My son's annual cub camp is usually near you, so I held off on a fonal decision until I knew the venue as I thought maybe I could drop off to you when I take him and collect when I pick him up. Of course this year it is nowhere near you, typical!
All in all I therefore think the inverter modified to deal with the motor needing 400/440V is the way to go, rather than modifying the motor. Though as you can guess, I'll be worrying about the fitting!9fingers wrote:Whichever route you decide on, there is a second level of choice.
One is to use the keypad controls on the inverter to turn it on and off and to change speed with up and down arrow buttons or
two,to have a separate control box with big chunky buttons and a rotary knob for speed.
This second option also allows you to fit an emergency stop kick switch if you so desire which cannot be combined with option 1.
All options will provide a display with an indication of the speed it will start at from the off position. So in terms of mounting the inverter, you need to be able to see the display and to reach the keypad in option one or just to see the display in option two, with the buttons on a separate panel that is within reach.
Sometimes people are attached to the look and feel of the original NVR and usually it is possible to re-use those stop and start buttons to control the inverter and also fit the speed control knob on the same box.
Within reason, you can have what you want.
For info typical inverter for your job is 75mm wide, 175 tall and 175 deep.
Almost certain to be a Siemens Micromaster 440 case style A (the smallest one in the range) - you can google/ebay for pictures.
Prices vary according to how cheaply I can buy them in and how much work is needed for the controls.
I can also replace motor bearings if needed should you go down the motor modification route.
Full 12month warranty on all work and inverters. Repair or replace at my option.
Tech support offered for as long as I'm able to do it!
Bob
On second level choices I think I will be happy to simply use the inverter for on and off and speed changes. I suspect that I will not be playing with the speed every time I use the drill, so the benefit of the rotary knob may be wasted on me.
The current switch is 145mm high, by 100mm wide, by 85mm deep so the inverter will be a touch narrower, a bit taller with the biggest difference being the inverter will be a lot deeper (which won't affect fitting it). Therefore I think it should work well to remove the current switch and mount the inverter on the same 'plate' the switch is being taken off from, even if the holes are in the wrong place I can mount a piece of plywood to the 'plate' and then mount the inverter to the plywood. Does that make sense?
Assuming that is all the info / choices, do you need anything more from me to kick the process off?
Thanks,
Terry.
9fingers wrote:No Do NOT remove those bolts.
Instead look inside the the circular junction box where there maybe a connection point.
If not and the wires pass straight through, then use the conduit box as a housing for making the connections between the cable I provided and the motor leads. make the earth of to a convenient mounting screw where the cover plate you removed, screws onto the motor.
Take great care flexing those black wires near where they enter the motor. the insulation could be fragile and once lost is a whole lot of extra work to re-instate safely.
HTH
Bob
9fingers wrote:If not and the wires pass straight through, then use the conduit box as a housing for making the connections between the cable I provided and the motor leads. make the earth of to a convenient mounting screw where the cover plate you removed, screws onto the motor.
Take great care flexing those black wires near where they enter the motor. the insulation could be fragile and once lost is a whole lot of extra work to re-instate safely.
9fingers wrote:OK two out of four bolts removed is not a problem just put em back and tighten as much - no more as the others.
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