It is currently 28 Mar 2024, 19:25

New old drill

Here's the place to talk about all your table saws, bandsaws, routers and dust extractors. In fact anything that makes noise and uses electrickery.

New old drill

Postby Wizard9999 » 07 Apr 2016, 20:33

A week or so ago I picked up an eBay purchase. Now the workshop has been tidied up after I finished the ducting I have finally taken it out of the car.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Image

It was a bit of a punt but the price was considerably lower than a Fobco or Meddings. It came from a small engineering workshop that two guys who work in automotive ran in their spare time and now having had a much better look at it has clearly been used until very recently and I have so far been been unable to find any rust, a lot of grime but no rust.

I have been unable to find any real info about Hogarth as a brand of drill. I found one website about lathes that suggested Hogarth lathes were most likely imported to the UK, but as per the picture above the badge on the drill claims it is "British made throughout". I also find the letters / numbers stencilled on the side, which look vaguely military to me. Any information anyone has on Hogarth would be much appreciated.

It is 3 phase so I will need some assistance from Bob before I can use it! From the plate on the motor I believe it only runs of 400/440v, so if I understand correctly it will need not just an inverter but one that also steps up the voltage.

Terry.
Last edited by Wizard9999 on 08 Apr 2016, 00:36, edited 1 time in total.
Wizard9999
Old Oak
 
Posts: 1409
Joined: 08 Aug 2014, 11:51
Location: Eversley, Hampshire
Name: Lord Radford

Re: New old drill

Postby Mike G » 07 Apr 2016, 20:49

That looks so much like military stenciling on the side. Just what you might see on an old army Landrover. Buy yourself a can of cheap red paint from a car shop and just spray the whole thing, moving parts and all. It'll look a million dollars........



















Well, that's how people normally restore old machinery, isn't it? :eusa-whistle: :lol:
User avatar
Mike G
Sequoia
 
Posts: 9834
Joined: 30 Jul 2014, 22:36
Location: Suffolk
Name:

Re: New old drill

Postby kirkpoore1 » 07 Apr 2016, 20:55

Mike G wrote:That looks so much like military stenciling on the side. Just what you might see on an old army Landrover. Buy yourself a can of cheap red paint from a car shop and just spray the whole thing, moving parts and all. It'll look a million dollars........


Well, that's how people normally restore old machinery, isn't it? :eusa-whistle: :lol:


Hey now! When I do a rattle-can resto, I specifically try to mask off the moving parts. Well, most of them anyway...:)

Kirk
who actually has a rattle-can restoration going on in his garage right now, pictures later...
User avatar
kirkpoore1
Old Oak
 
Posts: 1043
Joined: 21 Jul 2014, 22:12
Location: O'Fallon, Illinois
Name: Kirk

Re: New old drill

Postby DaveL » 07 Apr 2016, 21:55

Well that looks like a very useful tool. You appear to be missing a couple of the handles for advancing the quill, but they are not difficult to replace. Should do you for lots of years.
Regards,
Dave
My tool kit is almost complete, only a few more to get.
User avatar
DaveL
Old Oak
 
Posts: 1917
Joined: 21 Jul 2014, 21:07
Location: Sudbury, Suffolk
Name: Dave

Re: New old drill

Postby Doug » 07 Apr 2016, 22:12

I like the look of that Terry, nice one
User avatar
Doug
Old Oak
 
Posts: 2151
Joined: 21 Jul 2014, 22:22
Location: @dougsworkshop
Name:

Re: New old drill

Postby tracerman » 07 Apr 2016, 23:03

Terry - yes I noticed this in the background in one of your extraction photos - very solid looking old beast .
Re the strange horn-shaped extrusion/protrusion on the top front part , is there anything inside that ?

Steve
tracerman
Sapling
 
Posts: 343
Joined: 12 Sep 2014, 15:16
Location: southampton , hampshire, UK
Name: Steve

Re: New old drill

Postby Wizard9999 » 07 Apr 2016, 23:18

tracerman wrote:Re the strange horn-shaped extrusion/protrusion on the top front part , is there anything inside that


The kids love that, they think it looks like some sort of alien :lol:. As far as I can see it is a really 'interesting' stylistic choice.

Terry.
Wizard9999
Old Oak
 
Posts: 1409
Joined: 08 Aug 2014, 11:51
Location: Eversley, Hampshire
Name: Lord Radford

Re: New old drill

Postby Andyp » 08 Apr 2016, 07:53

Nice one Terry. I love the nice arc pattern in the table. :D
I do not think therefore I do not am.

cheers
Andy
User avatar
Andyp
Petrified Pine
 
Posts: 11718
Joined: 22 Jul 2014, 07:05
Location: 14860 Normandy, France
Name: Andy

Re: New old drill

Postby 9fingers » 08 Apr 2016, 10:29

Andyp wrote:Nice one Terry. I love the nice arc pattern in the table. :D



Ah yes the dreaded "arc of shame".....

Looks a good solid machine. The top to bottom dimension of the head should give good quill travel and rigidity - just compare with modern offerings!

Bargain price too!

I think there are two options on the motor Terry. Either I can modify you an inverter to give 240-400 conversion as well as 3 phase or there might be the possibility of modifying the motor to delta connection and use a standard 240 in - 240 out inverter.
I could do the latter if you dropped the motor off sometime whilst you are refurbishing the rest of the machine?

Either way the inverter would be of suitable size (and function) to replace the NVR and mount in the same place or maybe on the other side according to taste.

I can't quite read the motor plate power figure. Is it 0.5hp?

HTH

Bob
Information on induction motors here
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dBTVXx ... sp=sharing
Email:motors@minchin.org.uk
User avatar
9fingers
Petrified Pine
 
Posts: 10038
Joined: 21 Jul 2014, 20:22
Location: Romsey Hampshire between Southampton and the New Forest
Name: Bob

Re: New old drill

Postby Rod » 08 Apr 2016, 18:18

The worst thing about these old drills ( especially on my Meddings) is the table adjustment - mines very heavy and now way can you carry out any fine adjustment with it.
I generally bash the locking lever with a piece of wood and hold onto the table with my other hand hoping I won't let go!


Rod
User avatar
Rod
Old Oak
 
Posts: 4471
Joined: 21 Jul 2014, 21:34
Location: Winchester, Hampshire
Name:

Re: New old drill

Postby Wizard9999 » 09 Apr 2016, 10:37

9fingers wrote:
Andyp wrote:Nice one Terry. I love the nice arc pattern in the table. :D



Ah yes the dreaded "arc of shame".....



Indeed, not pretty, but so far I can't see that this is consistent with any other mistreatment of the machine, which is good.

9fingers wrote:Looks a good solid machine. The top to bottom dimension of the head should give good quill travel and rigidity - just compare with modern offerings!

Bargain price too!


Yes, I have been uncharacteristically patient and watched a lot of drills and bid on a few but usually they went above what I wanted to pay, I guess because nobody seems to know anything about Hogarth it didn't attract the interest or bids that others I have followed did.

9fingers wrote:I think there are two options on the motor Terry. Either I can modify you an inverter to give 240-400 conversion as well as 3 phase or there might be the possibility of modifying the motor to delta connection and use a standard 240 in - 240 out inverter.
I could do the latter if you dropped the motor off sometime whilst you are refurbishing the rest of the machine?

Either way the inverter would be of suitable size (and function) to replace the NVR and mount in the same place or maybe on the other side according to taste.

I can't quite read the motor plate power figure. Is it 0.5hp?

HTH


Yes, very helpful Bob, thanks. Taking the last point first, it is hard to read even in the flesh but I believe it does say 0.5hp on the motor plate.

At the moment to be honest I am not planning on much restoration, the machine appears in very good working order. I could strip it down to paint it, etc. but to be honest I am not inclined to do so for two reasons. First, there appears no need to from a mechanical perspective and second, it is an old drill and I see no shame in it showing its age. I will look to replace the missing handles, but apart from that I think it will just get a good clean to remove grime and a lot of metal shavings still collected by that grime.

In terms of three phase to single phase I guess there are two things in my mind, what is the best answer and some element of practicality. Is either of the options you suggest a lot better as a technical answer than the other? For both of the options, if I bring the motor down is the fitting of the inverter something that can be done at that time, i.e. does one or both of them mean a trip to drop off and then a trip on another occassion to pick up?

Thanks,
Terry.
Wizard9999
Old Oak
 
Posts: 1409
Joined: 08 Aug 2014, 11:51
Location: Eversley, Hampshire
Name: Lord Radford

Re: New old drill

Postby tracerman » 09 Apr 2016, 11:36

Terry , just an over-optimistic thought , if the pillar is same as another more modern drill , maybe you could acquire the toothed collared winding handle gizmo for your table adjustment scenario . ? . Well I did say over-optimistic didn't I . Carry on .

Steve
tracerman
Sapling
 
Posts: 343
Joined: 12 Sep 2014, 15:16
Location: southampton , hampshire, UK
Name: Steve

Re: New old drill

Postby Wizard9999 » 09 Apr 2016, 13:39

tracerman wrote:Terry , just an over-optimistic thought , if the pillar is same as another more modern drill , maybe you could acquire the toothed collared winding handle gizmo for your table adjustment scenario . ? . Well I did say over-optimistic didn't I . Carry on .

Steve


That is a very good idea I had not tought of Steve, a bit of measuring called for I think.

Thanks,
Terry.
Wizard9999
Old Oak
 
Posts: 1409
Joined: 08 Aug 2014, 11:51
Location: Eversley, Hampshire
Name: Lord Radford

Re: New old drill

Postby 9fingers » 09 Apr 2016, 15:20

Wizard9999 wrote:
Yes, very helpful Bob, thanks. Taking the last point first, it is hard to read even in the flesh but I believe it does say 0.5hp on the motor plate.


In terms of three phase to single phase I guess there are two things in my mind, what is the best answer and some element of practicality. Is either of the options you suggest a lot better as a technical answer than the other? For both of the options, if I bring the motor down is the fitting of the inverter something that can be done at that time, i.e. does one or both of them mean a trip to drop off and then a trip on another occasion to pick up?

Thanks,
Terry.


To be honest once completed either solution will work just as well as the other.
One involves modifying the inverter and the other involves modifying the motor.

The latter can sometime be impractical if the insulation inside the motor is old and fragile and moving the wires causes cracks. That can only be judged once opened up.

As for number of trips, the motor is not a while you wait job and would need to come here to be done as I have the facilities here to sort out any problems if they arise.

Fitting a modified inverter should be something you can do yourself if you wanted to and involve no visits. The inverter is couriers to you, you wire it up, job done.

Whichever route you decide on, there is a second level of choice.

One is to use the keypad controls on the inverter to turn it on and off and to change speed with up and down arrow buttons or
two,to have a separate control box with big chunky buttons and a rotary knob for speed.
This second option also allows you to fit an emergency stop kick switch if you so desire which cannot be combined with option 1.

All options will provide a display with an indication of the speed it will start at from the off position. So in terms of mounting the inverter, you need to be able to see the display and to reach the keypad in option one or just to see the display in option two, with the buttons on a separate panel that is within reach.

Sometimes people are attached to the look and feel of the original NVR and usually it is possible to re-use those stop and start buttons to control the inverter and also fit the speed control knob on the same box.

Within reason, you can have what you want.

For info typical inverter for your job is 75mm wide, 175 tall and 175 deep.
Almost certain to be a Siemens Micromaster 440 case style A (the smallest one in the range) - you can google/ebay for pictures.
Prices vary according to how cheaply I can buy them in and how much work is needed for the controls.
I can also replace motor bearings if needed should you go down the motor modification route.
Full 12month warranty on all work and inverters. Repair or replace at my option.
Tech support offered for as long as I'm able to do it!

Bob
Information on induction motors here
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dBTVXx ... sp=sharing
Email:motors@minchin.org.uk
User avatar
9fingers
Petrified Pine
 
Posts: 10038
Joined: 21 Jul 2014, 20:22
Location: Romsey Hampshire between Southampton and the New Forest
Name: Bob

Re: New old drill

Postby kirkpoore1 » 10 Apr 2016, 23:49

tracerman wrote:Terry - yes I noticed this in the background in one of your extraction photos - very solid looking old beast .
Re the strange horn-shaped extrusion/protrusion on the top front part , is there anything inside that ?

Steve


Steve:

The horn covers the top of the spindle when it's fully retracted. Here's a different example, on a Craftsman DP from the 1940's:

Image

And on this Atlas there is just a cover, but the relationship is pretty clear:
Image

Kirk
User avatar
kirkpoore1
Old Oak
 
Posts: 1043
Joined: 21 Jul 2014, 22:12
Location: O'Fallon, Illinois
Name: Kirk

Re: New old drill

Postby Wizard9999 » 12 Apr 2016, 15:13

Sorry for delay coming back to you, was getting some info first.

9fingers wrote:To be honest once completed either solution will work just as well as the other.
One involves modifying the inverter and the other involves modifying the motor.

The latter can sometime be impractical if the insulation inside the motor is old and fragile and moving the wires causes cracks. That can only be judged once opened up.


Well it has been suggested to me that the drill dates from between 1935 and 1950, not sure if the motor will have been replaced since then but my guess is it may not respond well to being modified and that may just open up a whole can of worms.

9fingers wrote:As for number of trips, the motor is not a while you wait job and would need to come here to be done as I have the facilities here to sort out any problems if they arise.

Fitting a modified inverter should be something you can do yourself if you wanted to and involve no visits. The inverter is couriers to you, you wire it up, job done.


My son's annual cub camp is usually near you, so I held off on a fonal decision until I knew the venue as I thought maybe I could drop off to you when I take him and collect when I pick him up. Of course this year it is nowhere near you, typical!

All in all I therefore think the inverter modified to deal with the motor needing 400/440V is the way to go, rather than modifying the motor. Though as you can guess, I'll be worrying about the fitting!

9fingers wrote:Whichever route you decide on, there is a second level of choice.

One is to use the keypad controls on the inverter to turn it on and off and to change speed with up and down arrow buttons or
two,to have a separate control box with big chunky buttons and a rotary knob for speed.
This second option also allows you to fit an emergency stop kick switch if you so desire which cannot be combined with option 1.

All options will provide a display with an indication of the speed it will start at from the off position. So in terms of mounting the inverter, you need to be able to see the display and to reach the keypad in option one or just to see the display in option two, with the buttons on a separate panel that is within reach.

Sometimes people are attached to the look and feel of the original NVR and usually it is possible to re-use those stop and start buttons to control the inverter and also fit the speed control knob on the same box.

Within reason, you can have what you want.

For info typical inverter for your job is 75mm wide, 175 tall and 175 deep.
Almost certain to be a Siemens Micromaster 440 case style A (the smallest one in the range) - you can google/ebay for pictures.
Prices vary according to how cheaply I can buy them in and how much work is needed for the controls.
I can also replace motor bearings if needed should you go down the motor modification route.
Full 12month warranty on all work and inverters. Repair or replace at my option.
Tech support offered for as long as I'm able to do it!

Bob


On second level choices I think I will be happy to simply use the inverter for on and off and speed changes. I suspect that I will not be playing with the speed every time I use the drill, so the benefit of the rotary knob may be wasted on me.

The current switch is 145mm high, by 100mm wide, by 85mm deep so the inverter will be a touch narrower, a bit taller with the biggest difference being the inverter will be a lot deeper (which won't affect fitting it). Therefore I think it should work well to remove the current switch and mount the inverter on the same 'plate' the switch is being taken off from, even if the holes are in the wrong place I can mount a piece of plywood to the 'plate' and then mount the inverter to the plywood. Does that make sense?

Assuming that is all the info / choices, do you need anything more from me to kick the process off?

Thanks,
Terry.
Wizard9999
Old Oak
 
Posts: 1409
Joined: 08 Aug 2014, 11:51
Location: Eversley, Hampshire
Name: Lord Radford

Re: New old drill

Postby Wizard9999 » 12 Apr 2016, 15:14

kirkpoore1 wrote:
tracerman wrote:Terry - yes I noticed this in the background in one of your extraction photos - very solid looking old beast .
Re the strange horn-shaped extrusion/protrusion on the top front part , is there anything inside that ?

Steve


Steve:

The horn covers the top of the spindle when it's fully retracted. Here's a different example, on a Craftsman DP from the 1940's:



Having been out and taken a look of course Kirk is completely correct :oops: . But I'm still telling my kids it is because it is an alien drill :lol: .

Terry.
Wizard9999
Old Oak
 
Posts: 1409
Joined: 08 Aug 2014, 11:51
Location: Eversley, Hampshire
Name: Lord Radford

Re: New old drill

Postby 9fingers » 12 Apr 2016, 15:29

Wizard9999 wrote:Sorry for delay coming back to you, was getting some info first.

9fingers wrote:To be honest once completed either solution will work just as well as the other.
One involves modifying the inverter and the other involves modifying the motor.

The latter can sometime be impractical if the insulation inside the motor is old and fragile and moving the wires causes cracks. That can only be judged once opened up.


Well it has been suggested to me that the drill dates from between 1935 and 1950, not sure if the motor will have been replaced since then but my guess is it may not respond well to being modified and that may just open up a whole can of worms.

9fingers wrote:As for number of trips, the motor is not a while you wait job and would need to come here to be done as I have the facilities here to sort out any problems if they arise.

Fitting a modified inverter should be something you can do yourself if you wanted to and involve no visits. The inverter is couriers to you, you wire it up, job done.


My son's annual cub camp is usually near you, so I held off on a fonal decision until I knew the venue as I thought maybe I could drop off to you when I take him and collect when I pick him up. Of course this year it is nowhere near you, typical!

All in all I therefore think the inverter modified to deal with the motor needing 400/440V is the way to go, rather than modifying the motor. Though as you can guess, I'll be worrying about the fitting!

9fingers wrote:Whichever route you decide on, there is a second level of choice.

One is to use the keypad controls on the inverter to turn it on and off and to change speed with up and down arrow buttons or
two,to have a separate control box with big chunky buttons and a rotary knob for speed.
This second option also allows you to fit an emergency stop kick switch if you so desire which cannot be combined with option 1.

All options will provide a display with an indication of the speed it will start at from the off position. So in terms of mounting the inverter, you need to be able to see the display and to reach the keypad in option one or just to see the display in option two, with the buttons on a separate panel that is within reach.

Sometimes people are attached to the look and feel of the original NVR and usually it is possible to re-use those stop and start buttons to control the inverter and also fit the speed control knob on the same box.

Within reason, you can have what you want.

For info typical inverter for your job is 75mm wide, 175 tall and 175 deep.
Almost certain to be a Siemens Micromaster 440 case style A (the smallest one in the range) - you can google/ebay for pictures.
Prices vary according to how cheaply I can buy them in and how much work is needed for the controls.
I can also replace motor bearings if needed should you go down the motor modification route.
Full 12month warranty on all work and inverters. Repair or replace at my option.
Tech support offered for as long as I'm able to do it!

Bob


On second level choices I think I will be happy to simply use the inverter for on and off and speed changes. I suspect that I will not be playing with the speed every time I use the drill, so the benefit of the rotary knob may be wasted on me.

The current switch is 145mm high, by 100mm wide, by 85mm deep so the inverter will be a touch narrower, a bit taller with the biggest difference being the inverter will be a lot deeper (which won't affect fitting it). Therefore I think it should work well to remove the current switch and mount the inverter on the same 'plate' the switch is being taken off from, even if the holes are in the wrong place I can mount a piece of plywood to the 'plate' and then mount the inverter to the plywood. Does that make sense?

Assuming that is all the info / choices, do you need anything more from me to kick the process off?

Thanks,
Terry.


OK Terry that will be fine. I'll start looking for a candidate to modify and come back to you by PM with a quote. Best to keep the commercial stuff off-forum.

5ods law, I don't have the ideal one in stock at the moment.
Why are you worrying about fitting? It is simply mains input, (three wire cable) and 3phase out to the motor (4 wire cable) and away you go.
I'll do the programming - all you might have to do is run the commissioning process to get it to characterise the motor - just pressing a few buttons according to the instruction I provide.
If you are not confident about this, just bring the machine here.



Cheers
Bob
Information on induction motors here
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dBTVXx ... sp=sharing
Email:motors@minchin.org.uk
User avatar
9fingers
Petrified Pine
 
Posts: 10038
Joined: 21 Jul 2014, 20:22
Location: Romsey Hampshire between Southampton and the New Forest
Name: Bob

Re: New old drill

Postby 9fingers » 24 Apr 2016, 18:49

Ping Terry!

Your inverter is all ready for collection and I've emailled all the details and documentation to your hotmail account.

Cheers
Bob
Information on induction motors here
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dBTVXx ... sp=sharing
Email:motors@minchin.org.uk
User avatar
9fingers
Petrified Pine
 
Posts: 10038
Joined: 21 Jul 2014, 20:22
Location: Romsey Hampshire between Southampton and the New Forest
Name: Bob

Re: New old drill

Postby Wizard9999 » 28 Apr 2016, 13:56

I am ow working through Bob's extremely comprehensive instructions for fitting the inverter. I am at the point of looking to connect the wire from the inverter to the motor on the drill and my total inexperience is hindering me, yet again :oops: .

I have taken the cover plate off the motor where the wire from the old switch enters it, I had rather hoped I would see some terminals where I could remove the old wires and connect the new ones from the inverter. No such luck and wires appear to disappear into the motor as below
Image

My question is whether anyone who knows thinks I am close to the connection points? If I remove the four bolts at the bottom, will that give me access to where I need to be?
Image

Or am I going in the motor from the wrong direction for this task? Loathed to take this apart more than I have to, given I haven't a clue what I am doing :|

Thanks in advance,
Terry.
Wizard9999
Old Oak
 
Posts: 1409
Joined: 08 Aug 2014, 11:51
Location: Eversley, Hampshire
Name: Lord Radford

Re: New old drill

Postby 9fingers » 28 Apr 2016, 15:05

No Do NOT remove those bolts.
Instead look inside the the circular junction box where there maybe a connection point.

If not and the wires pass straight through, then use the conduit box as a housing for making the connections between the cable I provided and the motor leads. make the earth of to a convenient mounting screw where the cover plate you removed, screws onto the motor.
Take great care flexing those black wires near where they enter the motor. the insulation could be fragile and once lost is a whole lot of extra work to re-instate safely.

HTH

Bob
Information on induction motors here
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dBTVXx ... sp=sharing
Email:motors@minchin.org.uk
User avatar
9fingers
Petrified Pine
 
Posts: 10038
Joined: 21 Jul 2014, 20:22
Location: Romsey Hampshire between Southampton and the New Forest
Name: Bob

Re: New old drill

Postby Wizard9999 » 28 Apr 2016, 16:02

9fingers wrote:No Do NOT remove those bolts.
Instead look inside the the circular junction box where there maybe a connection point.

If not and the wires pass straight through, then use the conduit box as a housing for making the connections between the cable I provided and the motor leads. make the earth of to a convenient mounting screw where the cover plate you removed, screws onto the motor.
Take great care flexing those black wires near where they enter the motor. the insulation could be fragile and once lost is a whole lot of extra work to re-instate safely.

HTH

Bob


OK Bob, that's clear. Are those four bolts holding the whole thing together then? To be honest I did losen them and took two out before I got cold feet and came inside to post my question, have I caused a problem?

Terry.
Wizard9999
Old Oak
 
Posts: 1409
Joined: 08 Aug 2014, 11:51
Location: Eversley, Hampshire
Name: Lord Radford

Re: New old drill

Postby Wizard9999 » 28 Apr 2016, 17:07

9fingers wrote:If not and the wires pass straight through, then use the conduit box as a housing for making the connections between the cable I provided and the motor leads. make the earth of to a convenient mounting screw where the cover plate you removed, screws onto the motor.
Take great care flexing those black wires near where they enter the motor. the insulation could be fragile and once lost is a whole lot of extra work to re-instate safely.


Wires run straight through from motor to switch. The swivelling circular elbows are not coming apart easily and would not be eady to mount. So I have removed the switch workings from the switch box and think I will use this as a box to house a connection, the existing wire can then run as it did through the armoured conduit to the motor. There are a couple of earthing points already on the switch box so tat will make that easier as well.

If that sounds daft please shout.

In terms of the connector block to make connect the wires coming out of the inverter to the wires going into the motor what rating should this have?

Terry.
Wizard9999
Old Oak
 
Posts: 1409
Joined: 08 Aug 2014, 11:51
Location: Eversley, Hampshire
Name: Lord Radford

Re: New old drill

Postby 9fingers » 28 Apr 2016, 17:34

OK two out of four bolts removed is not a problem just put em back and tighten as much - no more as the others.

Anywhere convenient for the junction would do. If the motor wires will reach the inverter terminals you can do without the old switch box?

Current rating of the connector is immaterial. Main thing is that the wires fit in the holes oK. Actual current is around 1 amp.

HTH

Bob
Information on induction motors here
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dBTVXx ... sp=sharing
Email:motors@minchin.org.uk
User avatar
9fingers
Petrified Pine
 
Posts: 10038
Joined: 21 Jul 2014, 20:22
Location: Romsey Hampshire between Southampton and the New Forest
Name: Bob

Re: New old drill

Postby Wizard9999 » 28 Apr 2016, 18:40

9fingers wrote:OK two out of four bolts removed is not a problem just put em back and tighten as much - no more as the others.


I'm getting worried now Bob :? I loosened all the bolts at the time I took the two out. Have refitted the two and tightened all four back to the same tightness as best as I can recall, but what are those bolts for? And is there any way I can check if I have screwed something up?

Terry.
Wizard9999
Old Oak
 
Posts: 1409
Joined: 08 Aug 2014, 11:51
Location: Eversley, Hampshire
Name: Lord Radford

Next

Return to Machines & Power Toolery

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 12 guests