It is currently 22 Feb 2017, 11:43
Rod wrote:I think Bob's got an Excalibur and he's certainly got a Dado stack - perhaps he'll be along later.
9fingers wrote:Rod wrote:I think Bob's got an Excalibur and he's certainly got a Dado stack - perhaps he'll be along later.
Correct on all counts Rod. Faced with this problem I made a tool for the job. That's the advantage of being an engineer first and a wood mangler second.
Busy with other stuff at the moment but will try and take a photo later today when I'm allowed some workshop time.
Terry you would be welcome to borrow it but I would not want to be without it for too long.
Wizard9999 wrote:Posts crossed Bob, but I went ahead and posted anyway.
I have two Allen keys that came with my saw, the end on one is shorter than the other and I presume that shooter one came with the longer arbour, as it means it just clears the saw table so it can be inserted below the table and then turned so the handle end is above the table.
I am going to Wickes this afternoon for some penetrating oil so I will take the Allen key with me and see if I can find a length of suitable pipe that will simple slip over it without too much play.
Thanks for the help.
the bear wrote:As an aside is there any sign of rust anywhere else, has it been abused or badly stored?
9fingers wrote:I wonder about the wisdom of taking the top off. Yes you get good access but you will lose the use of the table as the stop for the spindle spanner.
I think I might ensure use of a top quality allen key and some better tube to take out the flexure.
My hunch is that the taper will be where it is sticking rather than the thread but that is only a hunch.
Getting some heat on it has got to be worth a try but I don't know what sources you have got. Ideally you want a short sharp thermal shock rather than pour in lost of heat and end up wrecking bearing seals.
Really not sure what the best approach would be with your facilities to be honest.
Heat the area around the bolt with a propane torch, and touch a candle to the threads. The wax will be sucked into the opening around the threads, and the bolt can be removed easily. The heating and candle application may have to be repeated a couple times. This works on the same principle as "sweat-soldering" copper pipes, and will work where penetrating oil will not. (Always use care when and where you apply heat)
Tusses wrote:I haven't read the whole thread .. oh .. lol "thread" ! .. but are you trying to turn the right way ? if it's a left hand thread, due to the motor spin direction, then you need to turn the other way !
just putting this out there, in case no one has mentioned it :-)
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