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Startrite 352 Starting Problem

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Re: Startrite 352 Starting Problem

Postby Rod » 30 Oct 2014, 15:38

I haven't had a chance today - looking after Granddaughters again ( younger daughter having a difficult pregnancy with continuous sickness - rather than just mornings!)
I don't know if the stop button is in the open or closed position as its all sealed?
But the button is normally in the protruding out position and is pushed in by the red button or the metal safety lever system.
I have what looks like a matching new TI on order from the bay - worth a punt at £8 I think?
The problem with a replacement coil is that it's part of quite a complex plastic shape with prongs that sit on coil springs so only exact copy would work I think?

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Re: Startrite 352 Starting Problem

Postby kirkpoore1 » 30 Oct 2014, 16:19

Rod wrote:The problem with a replacement coil is that it's part of quite a complex plastic shape with prongs that sit on coil springs so only exact copy would work I think?

Rod


The coil probably has a part number printed on it. That's what you'd have to search for. Yes, you'd need an exact match. However, until you test, you won't know that if you need one. It's only an electromagnet, so unless it's burned out it's unlikely to be bad.

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Re: Startrite 352 Starting Problem

Postby 9fingers » 30 Oct 2014, 17:34

Rod wrote:I haven't had a chance today - looking after Granddaughters again ( younger daughter having a difficult pregnancy with continuous sickness - rather than just mornings!)
I don't know if the stop button is in the open or closed position as its all sealed?
But the button is normally in the protruding out position and is pushed in by the red button or the metal safety lever system.
I have what looks like a matching new TI on order from the bay - worth a punt at £8 I think?
The problem with a replacement coil is that it's part of quite a complex plastic shape with prongs that sit on coil springs so only exact copy would work I think?

Rod


But isn't the T1 the thermal overload?

To be honest, I don't follow your logic Rod.

Bob

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Re: Startrite 352 Starting Problem

Postby Rod » 30 Oct 2014, 17:57

My logic is illogical in that when I ordered it I thought the whole unit was a TI 16 and at £8 a bargain - at least it will eliminate the stop fault query?

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Re: Startrite 352 Starting Problem

Postby 9fingers » 30 Oct 2014, 18:04

OK Rod fair enuff!

I don't speak fluent Danfoss but it looks like the contactor is CI 9 not sure about the numbering of the coil /armature unit.

Hopefully you will be able to get some workshop time soon and can do the mains voltage coil test.
Let me know when you have some results and we can take it from there.

Don't despair - there is always a way to get this things sorted.

Cheers

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Re: Startrite 352 Starting Problem

Postby kirkpoore1 » 30 Oct 2014, 18:09

9fingers wrote:
Don't despair - there is always a way to get this things sorted.

Cheers

Bob


I concur--do not let yourself be defeated by mere machinery!:)

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Re: Startrite 352 Starting Problem

Postby Rod » 30 Oct 2014, 22:01

Yes I couldn't see the Ci 9 logo when it was attached to the saw - it looked like it was all one piece?

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Startrite 352 Starting Problem

Postby Rod » 01 Nov 2014, 13:08

I wired it up to the mains - it gives a fluctuating reading of 0.65 MOhms to 13.5M with the occasional flashing minus sign on my Fluke?

Image

Image


There's definitely no markings on the coil

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Re: Startrite 352 Starting Problem

Postby 9fingers » 01 Nov 2014, 15:16

Rod,
:shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock: :shock:

I don't know what you were measuring with your fluke but you are lucky it is still in on piece.!!

The instructions were to re-assemble the coil and armature and see if it worked with mains applied. At no stage should get an ohm meter involved.

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Re: Startrite 352 Starting Problem

Postby Rod » 01 Nov 2014, 17:33

Oops - I misunderstood!

But what is supposed to happen - the coil and armature are enclosed and nothing is visible externally?

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Re: Startrite 352 Starting Problem

Postby 9fingers » 01 Nov 2014, 17:46

Rod wrote:Oops - I misunderstood!

But what is supposed to happen - the coil and armature are enclosed and nothing is visible externally?

Rod


What is there to misunderstand in my original instruction?
"Re-assemble the contactor and connect a mains lead to A1 and A2 (either way round) (nothing else) and plug into the mains as a final confirmation."

With both halves of the armature in place you should hear/see it move on applying power.

If the coil is truly open circuit then nothing will happen and the lowest cost, reliable way forward is the toolstation approach.

Do check the current rating on the existing thermal overload as I think you were previously going for a too low rating.

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Re: Startrite 352 Starting Problem

Postby Rod » 01 Nov 2014, 20:38

Entirely my fault I was still thinking of the coil resistance reading.
Anyway it's definitely dead - no sign of movement or sound so off to Toolstation it is - I'll check the rating on the TI before I go.
Just a pity they are not smaller - the box that is?
Thanks for your help.

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Re: Startrite 352 Starting Problem

Postby TheTiddles » 01 Nov 2014, 23:33

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Re: Startrite 352 Starting Problem

Postby Rod » 01 Nov 2014, 23:54

I had to look that up - the Fluke is still working.

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Re: Startrite 352 Starting Problem

Postby Rod » 02 Nov 2014, 17:53

I see that Aidan has deleted all his posts?

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Re: Startrite 352 Starting Problem

Postby Wizard9999 » 03 Nov 2014, 00:07

Rod wrote:I see that Aidan has deleted all his posts?

Rod


Yes, saw that on another thread. That must take a lot of time and effort so he must be unhappy about something. Hopefully the mod's can resolve any issue.

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Re: Startrite 352 Starting Problem

Postby Rod » 04 Nov 2014, 09:38

I've got the new switch gear and will try to attach it where the original buttons are - pity it's such a big box but at least it's enclosed?

Image

From the circuit diagram I can suss out the connections but are the wires RST & UVW universal circuit symbols?

Image

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Re: Startrite 352 Starting Problem

Postby 9fingers » 04 Nov 2014, 10:55

Quite normal use of letters to label the connections Rod.
Just use R&T for the input and U & W to the motor.

As a test you can wire it all up apart from connecting the motor to check the NVR action.
The tiny yellow button on the side of the thermal trip is there to test that the contactor drops out when the thermal trip triggers. The bigger yellow button, resets the thermal trip.

The case needs to be that size to route the thicker, stiff wires needed if the NVR was being used at it's full rating and three phase.

hth

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Re: Startrite 352 Starting Problem

Postby Rod » 13 Nov 2014, 20:18

Finally managed to get a bit of shop time and the BS is up and running.
A bit of a carbuncle but it does the job
Thanks for all the advice.

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Re: Startrite 352 Starting Problem

Postby kirkpoore1 » 13 Nov 2014, 23:15

Glad to hear it. I always feel like I've got a gaping hole in my shop when one of my machines is down for repair.

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Re: Startrite 352 Starting Problem

Postby DaveL » 13 Nov 2014, 23:49

That looks to be the same switch as I fitted to my wadkin AGS, I wired in a remote stop switch that I can step on to stop the saw.
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Re: Startrite 352 Starting Problem

Postby Rod » 14 Nov 2014, 09:54

The Startrite has an emergency foot switch which operated mechanically by a series of levers to the original switch gear - now defunct. Though I think it should still operate a brake?

How did you connect yours up Dave?

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Re: Startrite 352 Starting Problem

Postby DaveL » 14 Nov 2014, 14:40

The stop switches are nc so they are wired in series with the normal stop switch and the overload contacts. I can open the box and take some pictures if you would find them useful.
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Re: Startrite 352 Starting Problem

Postby Rod » 14 Nov 2014, 16:38

That would be great Dave - less chance of me doing something wrong.
Also I could probably do something similar on my pillar drill which has the same NVR?

Where did you source the foot switch?

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