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wadkin RS lathe restoration

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Re: wadkin RS lathe restoration

Postby Robert » 23 Feb 2015, 22:23

Looking good :)

It is amazing what you can recover to shiny condition!

I used to weld quite often at work. mostly MIG a bit of TIG and sometimes gas. Hardly ever stick as it is too slow and messy and our stuff was rarely thicker than 2mm. I'm used to using a mask with a clear window slit about 6mm high at the top. head down to see what you are doing, head up to weld. Clear glass over the tinted is enough to stop the UV so no burned forehead :)
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Re: wadkin RS lathe restoration

Postby wallace » 27 Feb 2015, 19:07

To stop the bits that are not on show from rusting I thought I would try black oxide solution. Which is just an acid which causes black rust.

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Re: wadkin RS lathe restoration

Postby wallace » 02 Mar 2015, 18:25

I made some bits shiny

[URL=http://s525.photobucket.com/user/wallace_099/media/wadkin%20RS%202/IMG_1615_zps5acfdgb5.jpg.html]Image[/URL
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Re: wadkin RS lathe restoration

Postby Andyp » 02 Mar 2015, 19:23

Am I right I thinking that those bits would not have been as shines when new? Not a critism I love watching what you are doing.
I do not think therefore I do not am.

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Re: wadkin RS lathe restoration

Postby TrimTheKing » 02 Mar 2015, 20:22

Mmmmmmm shiny!
Cheers
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Re: wadkin RS lathe restoration

Postby wallace » 02 Mar 2015, 20:47

Andy the bits would have been bright from machining but not sanded down to 1000 and buffed
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Re: wadkin RS lathe restoration

Postby fiveeyes » 03 Mar 2015, 20:38

wallace wrote:to get the hinge pin out of the casting. I have tried penetrating stuff, heat and stilsons with a 4' pole. Any ideas any one?

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Wallace..perhaps you are already aware, but if not, try a 50/50 mixture of automatic transmission fluid and acetone for penetrating fluid. I have read that it is better than commercially available stuff. Wish I had known about it when I was a mechanic. BTW..very nice work! bill
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Re: wadkin RS lathe restoration

Postby wallace » 04 Mar 2015, 18:01

Thanks Bill, I've heard of the acetone thing before but have not tried it yet. I keep forgetting. I normally use plus gas which normally works quite well.
I some how managed to drop the handle of the banjo and it broke (homer) To fix it I drilled and tapped each bit and then welded

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This time I used my new face shield my wife bought me 12 months ago, so no burnt brow. I'm not the best welder but it ground down pretty well with just a couple of pin holes.

I thought I'd strip the motor, I tested it before and it is good.

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The pulley support had not been taken off before and it was full of pretty clean grease.

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I tried a puller on the pulleys and it moved easily and then stopped when it got to a collar on the shaft, it wouldn't budge so I looked closer.
The collar is pinned through the shaft.

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Re: wadkin RS lathe restoration

Postby wallace » 05 Mar 2015, 19:09

The motor came to bits pretty easy.

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I think this motor was originally an open motor which was adapted to be used for the lathe. The later lathes had an enclosed motor with fins.

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Hoffman bearings

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Re: wadkin RS lathe restoration

Postby wallace » 11 Mar 2015, 08:17

I plan on selling this once completed and to make it more attractive I think variable speed might be the cherry on top. The problem is that the motor is not dual voltage so vfd's are expensive. Is it possible to have the motor rewound to a different voltage (240) and then a vfd would be much cheaper. Of coarse if it costs £300 to rewind then its not cost effective.
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Re: wadkin RS lathe restoration

Postby 9fingers » 11 Mar 2015, 10:09

Mark, the last wadkin motor I was involved in cost £350 to remind (similar power) but was a 4 pole. Yours is a 6 pole and maybe even more?



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Re: wadkin RS lathe restoration

Postby tracerman » 11 Mar 2015, 10:51

Wallace , I am waiting in anticipation of seeing some more painted heavy castings - will you be using an undercoat ? , will you be spraying or brushing ? , just wondering .

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Re: wadkin RS lathe restoration

Postby wallace » 11 Mar 2015, 16:25

Hi Bob theres a local motor guy who did the motor for my bobbin sander and it cost me around £120. That motor was the same hp 1.5. How do you alter the voltage when winding a motor?

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Hi Steve I have been doing a lot of prep on the castings and then they will be sprayed with zinc primer and then enamel
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Re: wadkin RS lathe restoration

Postby 9fingers » 11 Mar 2015, 17:33

wallace wrote: How do you alter the voltage when winding a motor?



They have to recalculate the number of turns of each coil but increase the thickness of the wire so that the lower voltage will still produce the same magnetic flux density as the original coils did. They also need to check that the extra volume of wire will fit into the stator slots.

Some places use two strands of thinner wire in parallel as it packs into the slots better.

Older designed motors tend to be a bit more generous with the quantity of iron in the stator and the slots are bigger anyway.

That is certainly a mates rates type of price compared to the re-wind shops round here. I'd get a quote from them before you decide which way to go. if you get them to put a 6 way terminal block in, then it can be left as a dual voltage motor for the purchaser to fit an inverter. Unless you buy one of the very cheap Chinese inverters off the bay, you are not likely to get your money back by selling it with an inverter ready fitted.

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Re: wadkin RS lathe restoration

Postby Wadkin Temple » 14 Mar 2015, 02:55

Bob i had mine rewound to 240 from 575 and what i did was just bring in the stator. that got the cost down to $350 Canadian dollars. there a little thinner by the pound than your pound so that about the price Mark paid over here but that is a bargain i think. most shops use invertor duty wire but it best to ask for it . lots of room for single wire in the iron core too and the shop did a real nice job for me don't you think.the shop is all old guys in there later years. I think Wadkin had in mind with there motor designs to able to wind it any voltage and frequency from a single core design. I'v seen some that were 25hrs and have two Wadkin machine that have been converted from that old grid 25hrs system we had here in Niagara falls Ont. what would that be a 12 poll motor? I think the market is single phase for these lumps and the RS sure is fine with speed control


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Re: wadkin RS lathe restoration

Postby 9fingers » 14 Mar 2015, 17:25

Nice to see you posting here again Jack.

I hope all is OK with you.

Running 12 pole motor on 25Hz would give about 250 rpm minus a few % slip so that pretty darn slow

Theoretical RPM= frequency * 120/number of poles.

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Re: wadkin RS lathe restoration

Postby wallace » 14 Mar 2015, 18:09

I took the motor to the winders and he said it would be £250 which is more than I wanted to pay. He said he may be able to open up the wires and alter things. If that doesn't work he said I can wind the motor myself and he will show me how to do it. So result either way.
I have been spending a lot of time doing the prep on the castings before giving a coat of zinc primer.

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The main headstock is taking a lot of work, it has a lot of dings and the casting are pretty rough

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This is how I do the tags,

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After cleaning with a brass wire brush, I sanded and then polished

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I then spray with a black paint from a rattle can. It takes a few coats to fill the background

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Re: wadkin RS lathe restoration

Postby Wadkin Temple » 14 Mar 2015, 19:12

9fingers wrote:Nice to see you posting here again Jack.

I hope all is OK with you.

Running 12 pole motor on 25Hz would give about 250 rpm minus a few % slip so that pretty darn slow

Theoretical RPM= frequency * 120/number of poles.

Bob


never could remember that Bob. Good thing i check in here from time to time. I was thinking (never a good idea for me) if it was possible to use one the 120 volts drives to power the 415 volt . The drive we see lots here are 120 in 240 out but not sure how the transformer works on theses. they take 240 input too but still out put 240 so thats odd to me. there can't be a transformer in them (to small)so whats going on in these drive? :eusa-think:


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Re: wadkin RS lathe restoration

Postby 9fingers » 14 Mar 2015, 20:17

There is no need for a transformer in these dual voltage inverters.
It just needs a simple reconfiguration of the input diodes to double the input voltage.
In fact there are some methods that don't even need a switch and can just use a different input terminals according to the voltage.

It can be a diy modification sometimes but it is essential to make sure the inrush current limiter operates properly on both voltage inputs otherwise the inverter will keep blowing fuses so it needs adequate knowledge.

hth

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Re: wadkin RS lathe restoration

Postby wallace » 17 Mar 2015, 16:53

A little more progress, I primed the headstock

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This helps to highlight any imperfections

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Then I go round with more bodge

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The motor got a coat of black enamel along with some other bits for contrast

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Re: wadkin RS lathe restoration

Postby wallace » 18 Mar 2015, 20:19

This nice box of electrickery got delivered today, so now the lathe will run from a domestic supply

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Re: wadkin RS lathe restoration

Postby wallace » 21 Mar 2015, 18:44

I have been doing a lot of painting in the past few days, because I use enamel you can build the coats up quite quickly. By the time I've finished spraying I can go back to the beginning to give another coat. When done I left everything for two days and then went over again.

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The bed was is really nice condition with nearly all of its original filler intact. This is the first wadkin I've found which was originally black

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It has the number 115 stamped at the end of the bed which corresponds to the machine number on the tag

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Re: wadkin RS lathe restoration

Postby 9fingers » 21 Mar 2015, 19:33

Where did you get the inverter Mark. I don't recognise the style/make.

Cheers

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Re: wadkin RS lathe restoration

Postby wallace » 21 Mar 2015, 22:20

Its a teco from drives direct. I like it because its dust proof
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Re: wadkin RS lathe restoration

Postby 9fingers » 21 Mar 2015, 22:49

Thanks Mark,
I've got a teco drive on a drill press but it must be an earlier model as it is quite different from yours.

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