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Life would be easier with a bandsaw

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Life would be easier with a bandsaw

Postby Andyp » 17 Jun 2015, 12:29

Image

The resulting lump of chestnut is currently on the lathe. Biggest piece I have turned at about 11". So far so good (if that is not tempting fate). Might have it finished tomorrow just have to smooth the inside and apply finish.
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cheers
Andy
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Re: Life would be easier with a bandsaw

Postby Dalboy » 17 Jun 2015, 16:33

Before I had a bandsaw all I did was cut the blanks into octagonal as long as the blank runs smoothly no problem. If you find the corners then hit the lathe bed just trim them enough so the blank rotates.
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Re: Life would be easier with a bandsaw

Postby chataigner » 17 Jun 2015, 16:44

I can confirm that life is easier with a bandsaw. :lol: :lol:
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Re: Life would be easier with a bandsaw

Postby RogerS » 17 Jun 2015, 16:48

That is one seriously big chainsaw!!
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Re: Life would be easier with a bandsaw

Postby Rob » 17 Jun 2015, 17:38

one thing I'm yet to get is a ripping blade for my chainsaw. My normal procedure for the production of bowl blanks is to cut the butt into lengths which correspond to the following formula:

Diameter of tree plus 8 inches either side of the bit I want to keep. In other words I expect (even after sealing) a good 8 inches of waste from either end of the butt...lost to radial cracking and shakes in general. That leaves you with a bowl blank that is the maximum that can be accrued from that tree with in theory little in the way of end grain cracks.

I then lay it on my chopping log on the bark side and wedge it either side so its stable. Then I rip from top to bottom going in at an angle through the bark. This creates very long shavings which will clog the chainsaws drive wheel if you're not careful but with a little practice that's easily avoided.

I cut the log nearly through and then move 3 or 4" (whatever I want my final blank thickness to be) over and nearly cut through again. Finally, one more cut and you're usually used up on most average sized trees. Then I do the finishing cuts separating the slabs. Doing it this way keeps the log stable until just the last cuts. I switched to this method recently after a mate of mine tipped me off to it.

Those chainsawn slabs are really not bad at all and can be end sealed and stickered for air drying just fine like that. or they can then be bandsawn into circular blanks or 3x3" square edge pieces for spindle blanks. But I find that processing the log material is not what the bandsaw is best at. The chainsaw is far more versatile because you take it to the job. To process log material on the bandsaw requires a proper jigged up set of rails etc because they're just too heavy to manhandle safely on your own. Obviously you get a better quality cut if you do bandsaw them but I've given up doing it because frankly it's hernia territory. I now process the 2ndry level on the bandsaw. Good chainsaw practice is really not difficult as can be seen from Andy's pics. Good solid slabs there, they look pretty uniform.

My understanding is that with a ripping chain ground to 10 degrees you can rip down the butts with them standing on the end grain. Much easier and safer but I've not tried it yet
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Re: Life would be easier with a bandsaw

Postby Andyp » 17 Jun 2015, 20:17

RogerS wrote:That is one seriously big chainsaw!!


An optical delusion Roger :D It only has a 14" bar and runs off electrikery. I liked the Husqvana (all my other power garden tools are Stihl) because the motor is in line with the bar and does not stick out of the side which makes it very manoeuvrable in tight spaces and easy to use for a ham fisted amateur.
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cheers
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Re: Life would be easier with a bandsaw

Postby Andyp » 17 Jun 2015, 20:19

I may well source a rip chain Rob as I have experienced the chain clogging as you described when ripping an pine type tree down a year or so back.
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Re: Life would be easier with a bandsaw

Postby Rob » 18 Jun 2015, 09:36

My solution is to start with the blade tip up and the forky/spiky thing levering on the wood. That allows a stable start which is both safe and allows careful following of any chalk line. Once I've got a little notch to the line I bring the saw up to the top of the log, in line with the bark and do a square on cut that defines the line I want to take and integrates the existing line from the notch.

Then to avoid the clogging issue I rock back and forwards in cycles...tip down...saw down tip up....tip down saw up. Doing that allows less than the whole blade to be in contact with the log and its sufficiently conservative to relieve the pressure of too many chips on the drive wheel and my 18" Stihl can just manage then.

The long shavings make brilliant bedding for the kids guinea pigs :-)
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Re: Life would be easier with a bandsaw

Postby Wizard9999 » 19 Jun 2015, 16:01

Rob wrote:...To process log material on the bandsaw requires a proper jigged up set of rails etc because they're just too heavy to manhandle safely on your own. Obviously you get a better quality cut if you do bandsaw them but I've given up doing it because frankly it's hernia territory.


Rob

All you need do is shout if you ever need a lift with any timber. Remember what they say, "two hernias are better than one"!

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Re: Life would be easier with a bandsaw

Postby Rob » 20 Jun 2015, 10:43

Well that's very gentlemanly of you Terry. I can't think of anyone I'd rather share a major groin injury with :-)
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