It is currently 28 Mar 2024, 14:00
9fingers wrote:I think you might get a slight ghost circle but sanding off the lathe with a ROS or detail sander should remove them. Try and go for the medium to hard grades of aluminium such as HE30 designed for machining rather than soft and sticky stuff designed to be bent/formed to get a cleaner cut.
If you can put the metal all the way through the wood or at least had a goodly proportion remaining in the wood as you dont want them catching and coming out at you turn the faces.
Worth experimenting with some scrap first?
Good Luck
Bob
PS How about getting some domed head ali rivets and polishing them up first and set them into the clock face at the last stage after turning and finishing? Make a wooden snap to protect the polished faces when you tap them home.
Doug wrote:From past experience of doing similar things the main problem I found was build up of heat causing the glue to fail, even with heat resistant epoxy I had mixed results.
If you are just marking the hours with the bar why not turn the face drill the holes & insert the bar last off, that way you could polish the bar before you glue it in place & after the wood finish is applied so no chance of discolouration
Andyp wrote:I am also trying to work out if and how I could cut some straight slots to take a piece of veneer on edge. This might be possible with the Dremel and a cutting disc
Malc2098 wrote:Andy,
Just an idea, how about mother of pearl or abalone like luthiers use for guitar neck dots?
9fingers wrote:Andyp wrote:I am also trying to work out if and how I could cut some straight slots to take a piece of veneer on edge. This might be possible with the Dremel and a cutting disc
I think you would have better control with a router and guide bush running in a template. Once clamped down there would be little or no scope for error. One of those cutters designed for fitting a dutchman 2mm-1/8" should do nicely.
Commiserations at being stuck in UK - but it is a lovely day.......
Bob
Andyp wrote:Malc2098 wrote:Andy,
Just an idea, how about mother of pearl or abalone like luthiers use for guitar neck dots?
Oh yes. I like that idea. Not cheap but would look fab.
Andyp wrote:S & B is quite some emporium. Just standing in the door of the cutting shed was enough for me. Some gorgeous timbers being prepped and the smell was intoxicating. The kids enjoyed choosing the blanks and I was very good not to be tempted by all the other goodies on offer.
Malc2098 wrote:Andy,
If you go down the MoP/abalone route, a lip and spur drill bit the diameter of the dot in a pillar drill is all I used for the dots on my guitar necks.
Dalboy wrote:Andyp wrote:S & B is quite some emporium. Just standing in the door of the cutting shed was enough for me. Some gorgeous timbers being prepped and the smell was intoxicating. The kids enjoyed choosing the blanks and I was very good not to be tempted by all the other goodies on offer.
Luckily it is only 20 minute drive for me but was not able to get there at the time to say Hi which was a shame
Andyp wrote:Malc2098 wrote:Andy,
If you go down the MoP/abalone route, a lip and spur drill bit the diameter of the dot in a pillar drill is all I used for the dots on my guitar necks.
Thanks Malc. I've just done an an I order for some new sharp drills and two packs of MOP dots which conveniently come in packs of 12 . Hopefully will arrive here before I go back to France at the weekend.
My lathe has a 12 stop indexing facility so marking out will no problem.
What glue would you recommend for MOP?
Malc2098 wrote:Use the indexing to mark out and point a tiny hole, then take off the lathe and use a pillar drill with a depth stop.
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