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Start Up Kit

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Re: Start Up Kit

Postby Dalboy » 11 Apr 2018, 11:07

When cutting back any finish always start at the grit you last used or even finer you are only creating somewhere for the next coat to grip on.
Something like THIS is ideal as they go down to very fine
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Re: Start Up Kit

Postby 9fingers » 11 Apr 2018, 11:42

Nice to see some shavings on your unnaturally clean workshop floor :lol:
I too am a fan of web type abrasives although I mainly do flat work rather than spinning stuff :lol:
Their are much less likely to clog. If you still get clogging then this is usually a sign that the finish has not dried sufficiently.

Just a quick point about inserting photos in your posts.

It is a two stage process as detailed here viewtopic.php?f=24&t=2850

Uploading, which you are doing just fine and then subsequently placing the photo neatly into the test using the place online command. I have edited your most recent post to insert it properly and if you compare it with your earlier posts, you will see the photos just stacked at the bottom of the post inside dotted boxes where they are waiting to be placed inline.

Hope this helps

Bob
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Email:motors@minchin.org.uk
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Re: Start Up Kit

Postby Andyp » 11 Apr 2018, 12:48

I like the blue J-Flex abrasives from Axi for initial sanding then I sometimes I use the Micromesh for further sanding at higher grits. Buffing is done with the Chestnut Buffing system

I think you need to experiment until you find what feels right for you, Remember if you fingers get hot when sanding you are pushing to hard.
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cheers
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Re: Start Up Kit

Postby Woodster » 11 Apr 2018, 14:17

I use Abranet for initial sanding then go on to 2 inch discs in a drill. I cut back sanding sealer with a grey scotch pad, most places sell them. I get all my polishing supplies from:
http://www.thepolishingshop.co.uk
They are half the price of the Chesnut and Beal systems.
Brief guide here:
http://www.thepolishingshop.co.uk/acata ... cquer.html
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Re: Start Up Kit

Postby Dalboy » 11 Apr 2018, 18:59

Have a look at Terry's video on how to apply some of his products

HERE
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Re: Start Up Kit

Postby mabazza ritchie » 11 Apr 2018, 20:37

I'm liking the look of the mesh products, especialy since they are reusable many times over. I may try and pick up a selection of products and see what works for me.

I just watched a YT video by Mike Waldt on sanding, it was quite helpful for someone starting out like myself.

I enjoy having a nice clean workshop floor; thats because all the detritus is on my benches and shelves! I will try and remember about the photos for next time.

Thanks.
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Re: Start Up Kit

Postby Woodbloke » 12 Apr 2018, 22:20

mabazza ritchie wrote: The sanding is a tricky one; but happy to keep at it.

Does anyone favour any particular brand or abrasive product?

I use the complete Kirjes system from CHT. It's spendy, but guaranteed to remove every single scratch mark from your work and makes sanding a doddle. The other thing that works well with the system is one of these bad boys from the old firm and you can even make your own Abranet abrasives to fit. Easy peasy, but make sure your lathe dust extraction is up to snuff :D - Rob
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Re: Start Up Kit

Postby mabazza ritchie » 19 Apr 2018, 18:14

Evening folks,

Just thought i would update; bought some of the micromesh from Ax so hopefully that will work a treat! Also ordered Yorkshire Grit and Hampshire Sheen - no idea if they are any good yet but fingers crossed.

I managed to get a 100grit stone for my grinder which is ok but will be getting binned asap as I cant seem to get it right even with a jig for my gouge. The wheel doesnt ru n true which doesnt help - grinder is from a budget supermarket!

Today i got out my electric chainsaw and cut some blanks for drying, coating them with watered down pva.
20180419_144637.jpg
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Also, i have finished my first bowl from my new lathe..
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20180414_193053.jpg
(289.98 KiB)


It is about 12" dia., horse chestnut finished with friction polish - which i have decided i dont care for.

As an aside, does anyone have any thoughts what timber this is;
20180419_122203.jpg
(524.57 KiB)

20180419_122157.jpg
(439.94 KiB)


Away to make more sawdust.
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Re: Start Up Kit

Postby Malc2098 » 19 Apr 2018, 18:22

Good start!
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Re: Start Up Kit

Postby Andyp » 19 Apr 2018, 20:39

The inside of that bowl looks gorgeous. To me the shape of the base needs working on.

No expert but I have some cherry that looks a like that with those little flecks on the bark. The inside looks too pale for cherry though.
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Re: Start Up Kit

Postby Woodster » 20 Apr 2018, 10:19

Nice job on the bowl! ;)
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Re: Start Up Kit

Postby 9fingers » 20 Apr 2018, 12:21

mabazza ritchie wrote:
As an aside, does anyone have any thoughts what timber this is;


Away to make more sawdust.


We had an ornamental cherry tree in the garden years ago with bark like that.

The inside looks spalted (aka rotten :lol: ) so be careful it does not fly apart when you spin it.

Bob
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Re: Start Up Kit

Postby Phil » 22 Apr 2018, 07:51

Woodster wrote:Nice job on the bowl! ;)



:text-+1:
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Re: Start Up Kit

Postby TrimTheKing » 03 May 2018, 10:11

Google image search suggests wild cherry for that bark.
Cheers
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Re: Start Up Kit

Postby StevieB » 03 May 2018, 13:38

Another vote for Cherry here
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Re: Start Up Kit

Postby mabazza ritchie » 25 Jul 2018, 00:14

Evening folks,

So, since the above turning photos, I have produced a lot of firewood and very few things of any note; much to my absolute rage!

I don't know what I am doing wrong, I seem to be getting fairly drastic catches regularly which results in timber flying off the lathe. Am I making the footings too small, in that they are fragile? Is the angle of presentation of the gouge wrong?

As an aside, I ditched my 6inch grinder and bought a Pro Edge - lovely sharp tools to create highly polished firewood!

Sorry for the moaning, if anyone can suggest a) thickness of recess wall for a footing and b) what causes ludicrously frequent catches?

Thanks in advance.
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Re: Start Up Kit

Postby Andyp » 25 Jul 2018, 07:12

Sorry to hear of your frustrations. I would guess that yours catches are a result of tool presentation angle, height of tool rest, or wrong choice of tool. Trying to describe why is beyond my linguistic capabilities here and in my experience was best understood by demonstration.
Can I suggest you find a one day turning course? If possible on a one to one basis. It was the best thing I ever did even with the language barrier that I had to over come.

My process of turning a bowl is thus. Screw chuck to start, turn the sides and base (foot), depth of foot and angle of foot sides to match the chuck jaws. Remove screw chuck and use 4 jaw chuck to hold foot and tail stock revolving centre. Remove most of inside of bowl. Remove tail stock and slowly shape inside of bowl. I then remove the foot using button jaws.

I have only just started to turn a recessed foot and use the chuck in expansion which always seemed less secure than a tenon like foot and using the chuck in compression.

Hope this helps but I say again a turning course with a pro would help you no end.
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Re: Start Up Kit

Postby Woodbloke » 25 Jul 2018, 09:15

Andyp wrote:I have only just started to turn a recessed foot and use the chuck in expansion which always seemed less secure than a tenon like foot and using the chuck in compression.


My standard method provided you make the depth of the recess sufficient for grippage on the expanding jaws of the chuck which then makes it very secure. Making a recess also allows a space to make a small raised section where the edges can be sharpened by using a three point tool. The centre section is also slightly dished and it's a good place for a bit of fancy pyrography work :D

IMG_1381.jpg
(147.79 KiB)


Making a foot for holding in gripper jaws (or similar) means you need to have a much thicker blank with consequent wastage thereof and being a parsimonious soul I would resent that if the timber in question were English Walnut - Rob
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Re: Start Up Kit

Postby Rod » 25 Jul 2018, 10:16

I’m self taught and also no expert but catches are mainly caused by “attacking” the wood at the wrong angle and perhaps too fiercely.

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Re: Start Up Kit

Postby Dalboy » 25 Jul 2018, 10:48

mabazza ritchie can you give a very rough idea of your location.

Like already stated tool selection and presentation to the work could be some of your problems. Whether a grinder or pro edge is used should make no difference, I have been using a grinder for all of my needs and have learnt the sharpening for my tools on that.

Going to a local club or seeking the aid of a tutor would be a good idea. By keep having problems will only put you off turning but once learnt it will give you hours of pleasure
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Re: Start Up Kit

Postby mabazza ritchie » 25 Jul 2018, 23:29

Thanks for the replies. When I have been hollowing out a bowl tonight, it was like the inside of the bowl was trying to throw the gouge out, by pushing it back toward me, if that makes sense. I think it is ground at 50 degrees...

I had a fantastic tutor a few years ago, however, he has since moved away. He was my inspiration to get back into turning.

I think the fact I am using split logs which havent been shaped in a bandsaw doesn't help matters. I have cut them with the chainsaw and get them mounted on the lathe and turn them into round before I begin my project.

Dalboy - I am up in the North East of Scotland.

A photo of tonights effort; oak c.10inch dia, key/change/whatever dish. Sanded and finished with some paste wax.
20180725_233233.jpg
(145.42 KiB)

20180725_233240.jpg
(136.53 KiB)
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Re: Start Up Kit

Postby Malc2098 » 26 Jul 2018, 09:47

That'll go just nice on my hall table.
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Re: Start Up Kit

Postby mabazza ritchie » 04 Sep 2018, 03:58

And here we go again....

I am now looking for a good table saw (or bandsaw - i can't make up my mind; most likely the former) to come in well under £1000. I have made a few book cases and table tops of late hence my leaning toward table saws. I have been looking at the Ax 10" trade table saw and also see the Harvey HW110LGE-30. Unfortunately, the Harvey isnt available in the UK without importing it direct, which is VERY expensive for one unit. Does anyone have any recommendations/ghoughts on Harvey etc?

Whilst i appreciate older saws such as Wadkin etc are solid and quality; I would quite like one which doesn't sound like 777 jet taking off as its going to be in my internal garage! Maybe older saws don't sound like that; just my potentially misguided impression.

Thanks in advance
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Re: Start Up Kit

Postby 9fingers » 04 Sep 2018, 09:35

A few basics:

Any saw blade whizzing round at 4000 ish rpm will make some noise due the air displaced.

4000rpm x 30 ish teeth will give 2khz whistle (4000 * 30/60)

This will be totally drowned out by the noise from saws using universal (or brush ) motors.

If you are sensitive to noise particularly for your neighbours, then only look at induction motor powered saws. These will be far quieter.

Older heavy machines are likely to make less noise as their mass and construction will have less resonant structures. That is not to say that a well made modern saw will automatically be noisier than an older one.

Generally speaking an older cast iron machine will provide better value for money than a new one out of the showroom but there could be odd parts missing, worn or broken but as you will see from other threads in this forum that need not be an obstacle. 3 phase machines are not a real problem these days and often sell for less than their single phase counterparts. Allow say £200 for an inverter to run them from domestic supplies. I can guide you through this process when the time comes. It has become my specialist subject. see my message footer.

Don't rush, choose carefully and by all means ask back here for opinions.
Good luck

Bob
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Re: Start Up Kit

Postby Woodbloke » 04 Sep 2018, 09:48

mabazza ritchie wrote:.. and also see the Harvey HW110LGE-30. Unfortunately, the Harvey isnt available in the UK without importing it direct, which is VERY expensive for one unit. Does anyone have any recommendations/ghoughts on Harvey etc?



A Harvey tablesaur will soon be available at Axminster - Rob
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