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Patchy finish

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Patchy finish

Postby mabazza ritchie » 28 Jul 2018, 20:26

Hi folks,

So here is todays effort, hopefully not my magnum opus, but at least its not firewood! Next time i would do a different design and not put the band around the outside, rhis would allod me to make it thinner.

It is oak, finished diameter is 240mm and 120mm high. Finished with one coat of sanding sealer, Yorkshire grit and paste wax.

Not a single catch this time! Think that has something to do with me regrinding my gouge, gerring rid of the swept back wings.

I am slightly annoyed with myself for using CA glue to fill endgrain tear out that I just couldn't shift on the outside. It doesn't look great.

On the inside, there are two parts where the finish is streaky, I don't know if it has something to do with the absorption into the wood at that point/differing wood density?! Any thoughts from those more experienced?

Here are some pics
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Re: Patchy finish

Postby Dalboy » 28 Jul 2018, 22:27

With end grain I normally use sander sealer and sharpen my chisel for each finishing pass that means it is more likely to cut the end grain rather than pull it. Or I wet the wood and cut again with a freshly sharpened chisel whilst it is still damp this swells the grain making it easier to cut

How are you applying the sander sealer is it with the lathe running. If so then stop the lathe and apply either with a brush or cloth wiping any excess off immediate and then inspect before going on to the top coat. If the sander sealer is acrylic then after applying and it is dry sand back and give a second coat.
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Re: Patchy finish

Postby Woodbloke » 28 Jul 2018, 23:35

mabazza ritchie wrote:
I am slightly annoyed with myself for using CA glue to fill endgrain tear out that I just couldn't shift on the outside. It doesn't look great.



You can get rid of that endgrain tearout completely by using a Flexipad sander in a power drill or flexible drive. Start off with 80g and work down through the grades to finish at 400g. Easy :D - Rob
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Re: Patchy finish

Postby mabazza ritchie » 29 Jul 2018, 00:03

Dalboy wrote: How are you applying the sander sealer is it with the lathe running. If so then stop the lathe and apply either with a brush or cloth wiping any excess off immediate and then inspect before going on to the top coat. If the sander sealer is acrylic then after applying and it is dry sand back and give a second coat.


I have applied the cellulose sealer with the lathe off, using a brush then wipe off any excess with paper towel. I then cut it back with the same grit i finished sanding on, then i apply either my finishing product or Yorkshire grit (someone gave me a pot :eusa-think: ) then the finishing product. I have never really thought to get the chisel out to cut it back again, more than likely for fear of making matters worse!

I seem to go through so much sanding products that I am advising people to buy shares in the companies! I have some 50mm discs and pads for my drill, also some Indasa backed sheets of abrasive.

I will give it a try taking the sharp cjisel back across it. The amount of 80g i used trying to take it out was bad for the environment!
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Re: Patchy finish

Postby Woodbloke » 29 Jul 2018, 13:24

mabazza ritchie wrote:
I seem to go through so much sanding products that I am advising people to buy shares in the companies! I have some 50mm discs and pads for my drill, also some Indasa backed sheets of abrasive.

I will give it a try taking the sharp cjisel back across it. The amount of 80g i used trying to take it out was bad for the environment!

It's also extremely bad for your lungs, so please ensure that your dx extraction system at the point of dust generation is up to snuff and that you also wear the appropriate mask or respirator. That amount of tear out on a bowl that size would take no longer than 10 minutes to remove with a Flexipad sander and flexible drive.
Fwiw, I've given up on propriety lathe finishes as they're too easily removed when turned stuff is in constant everyday use, eg a fruit bowl. Although it takes much longer, I now use my Osmo PolyX hardwax oil on spiny stuff in the lathe. It can still be finished with a wax polish and buffed to a decent enough shine - Rob
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Re: Patchy finish

Postby 9fingers » 29 Jul 2018, 13:29

Rob,
What is it that is so bad for the lungs?

Oak sanding dust
Sanding sealer dust
CA glue dust
Abrasive grit

or all/some of the above

Just curious

Bob
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Re: Patchy finish

Postby Woodbloke » 29 Jul 2018, 13:42

9fingers wrote:Rob,
What is it that is so bad for the lungs?

Oak sanding dust
Sanding sealer dust
CA glue dust
Abrasive grit

or all/some of the above

Just curious

Bob

All of it Bob. It's the very, very small sized dust particles that get sucked into the tubes that does the real damage, so anything that I can do to reduce the risk gets done. That said, it's almost impossible to completely eradicate dust in a woodwork 'shop and I guess that it's something that we as woodmanglers have to put up with. When I worked at Ax a couple of years ago, I did some research into it and there are still a couple of articles on Ax's 'The Knowledge' page.
If it's any consolation, smoking a packet of twenty fags a day may be infinitely worse than working in a dusty workshop - Rob
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Re: Patchy finish

Postby 9fingers » 29 Jul 2018, 13:59

Woodbloke wrote:
9fingers wrote:Rob,
What is it that is so bad for the lungs?

Oak sanding dust
Sanding sealer dust
CA glue dust
Abrasive grit

or all/some of the above

Just curious

Bob

All of it Bob. It's the very, very small sized dust particles that get sucked into the tubes that does the real damage, so anything that I can do to reduce the risk gets done. That said, it's almost impossible to completely eradicate dust in a woodwork 'shop and I guess that it's something that we as woodmanglers have to put up with. When I worked at Ax a couple of years ago, I did some research into it and there are still a couple of articles on Ax's 'The Knowledge' page.
If it's any consolation, smoking a packet of twenty fags a day may be infinitely worse than working in a dusty workshop - Rob


OK Thanks Rob,
I'm aware of the "normal" dust risk. I just wondered if there was something specific about the job the OP was doing that was enhancing the risk.

Bob
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Re: Patchy finish

Postby mabazza ritchie » 29 Jul 2018, 15:39

Thanks for the replies. I have to admit I am not a big fan of everything having to be shiny shiny, so other finishes are most welcome. I do like neutral oil like Tung etc. I have used that Osmo before for a front door, I shal give it a bash for turning finish.

As far as dust extraction, I have a camvac 2000w (2motors) and I wear a Trend Airsheild respirator.

As an aside, here is this mornings project. Its a 'vase', horsechestnut, finished with a paste wax, the balck bit is a copper with 'burn'. I will just use a forstner bit to take out the inside as I dont have any lathe tools that I could do that with....nor the skill.

20180729_142601.jpg
(118 KiB)


I followed the advice regarding tearout and using a sharp chisel; worked a treat.
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Re: Patchy finish

Postby Woodbloke » 29 Jul 2018, 19:14

9fingers wrote:
I'm aware of the "normal" dust risk.
Bob


Apologies Bob, straying into the 'egg sucking' area - Rob
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Re: Patchy finish

Postby 9fingers » 29 Jul 2018, 19:35

Woodbloke wrote:
9fingers wrote:
I'm aware of the "normal" dust risk.
Bob


Apologies Bob, straying into the 'egg sucking' area - Rob


No Worries Rob. I'd wondered if for example CA glue dust might be particularly bad for the tubes.

Bob
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Email:motors@minchin.org.uk
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Re: Patchy finish

Postby Woodbloke » 29 Jul 2018, 21:00

9fingers wrote:
No Worries Rob. I'd wondered if for example CA glue dust might be particularly bad for the tubes.

Bob


Dunno, but I think it's probably better not to get it into the tubes; maybe not quite as bad as Novichock :D - Rob
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Re: Patchy finish

Postby SamQ aka Ah! Q! » 31 Jul 2018, 15:09

maybe not quite as bad as Novichock


Given your address, massively ironic!! :D :eusa-clap:

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