It is currently 29 Mar 2024, 14:03
9fingers wrote:I'm not a turner but could you make it with a spigot and cut that away later?
Bob
RogerS wrote:Andy, that must be so frustrating for you. I am not a turner and so can't offer any advice, I'm afraid.
I would have drunk something stronger.
Andyp wrote:9fingers wrote:I'm not a turner but could you make it with a spigot and cut that away later?
Bob
Bob, maybe. I can't work out how to hold the bowl and cut away the spigot. I'll have to google that one.
Andyp wrote:I would not fancy using a parting tool so close to the jaws. Seems a simple method is to use non slip mat on an mdf disc then use the taIl stock to hold it on then gently part alway the spigot until there is only a mm or two left. I have some non slip mat somewhere so will give that a try.
9fingers wrote:Andyp wrote:I would not fancy using a parting tool so close to the jaws. Seems a simple method is to use non slip mat on an mdf disc then use the taIl stock to hold it on then gently part alway the spigot until there is only a mm or two left. I have some non slip mat somewhere so will give that a try.
On a proper lathe (Engineering) parting off right up against the chuck is the safest and best place to do it.
Surely you could have a spigot long enough to give you enough working room to part off free hand?
Bob
Dalboy wrote:The only reasons this happens (well to me that is) if you over tighten the jaws when you do not have enough meat around the socket. Other reasons are, there is a fault in the wood and even getting a catch can twist the piece and cause it. Without knowing the full story it is difficult to say. You may be able to rescue it. do you have a picture of the top.
As you may know I do a little turning myself Have a look HERE
Rod wrote:Cannot really see but can you hold the top in your expanding jaws and turn the base again, removing the damage and cutting deeper?
Rod
Andyp wrote:I would not fancy using a parting tool so close to the jaws. Seems a simple method is to use non slip mat on an mdf disc then use the taIl stock to hold it on then gently part alway the spigot until there is only a mm or two left. I have some non slip mat somewhere so will give that a try.
Deejay wrote:Morning Andy
Seems a simple method is to use non slip mat on an mdf disc then use the taIl stock to hold it on then gently part alway the spigot until there is only a mm or two left.
Before you do this, you could turn a spigot from a bit of scrap and glue it into the socket. Mount the bowl on the spigot and finish the inside.
Then reverse mount it and remove the scrap spigot.
As Dalboy says, you might be over tightening it. If you overtighten a spigot it doesn't matter so much 'cos you remove it later, or turn it into a foot.
If you use a bit of 'nice' scrap for the spigot, perhaps something to contrast with the rest of the bowl, you will have a bit more wood to play with if the bottom gets thin when you turn the inside.
Cheers
Dave
chataigner wrote:Andyp wrote:I would not fancy using a parting tool so close to the jaws. Seems a simple method is to use non slip mat on an mdf disc then use the taIl stock to hold it on then gently part alway the spigot until there is only a mm or two left. I have some non slip mat somewhere so will give that a try.
Thats how I've seen it done, but not tried it myself.
Return to Turning (Wood or any other material you fancy)
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 18 guests