It is currently 23 Feb 2017, 11:03
Wizard9999 wrote:Very nice Dan. Any tips or lessons learnt, or was it all pretty straight forward?
Don't take this the wrong way, but given your uninsulated doors why on earth are you going to the expense of sealed unit double glazing? The surface area of the doors must be at least four times that of the windows.
On cills I struggle to see why you would incur extra cost unless it is minimal and the benefit is huge, I almost daren't say it but it is after all only an outbuilding. Over the last few weeks I have been throwing up a storage shed to free up garage space and I made some simple non opening windows for which I made the cills out of left over 4x2, once painted they look perfectly adequate for a shed, to my eye anyway.
Who, in the interests of honest disclosure has doors in his workshop with as much insulation as his walls but recycled single glazed windows.
old wrote:Have you considered diy double glazing with poly carbonate you apply a magnetic tape around the frame inside and the opposite polarity to the plastic its best to have some small gaps to prevent misting and snap the two together with something to rest the pane on and take the weight £12 + del each at 3mm.. https://www.amazon.co.uk/12mm-Magnetic- ... B0071LM428
Plastic people or others for poly.
Should stop condensation on the inside of your window even though its not a fully sealed system.
Rod wrote:Why not amend the opening to suit standard sizes.
Mike G wrote:No, Dan, I mean having a rebate running along each edge to create an overlap. The boards lay flat.
Wizard9999 wrote:Mike G wrote:No, Dan, I mean having a rebate running along each edge to create an overlap. The boards lay flat.
Just making a door and want to check something. If as per the picture the rebated boards are butted up tight, if they shrink any gap will be covered, but there is no room for expansion. Should I be leaving a small gap between the boards for expansion?
ScotlandtheDave wrote:.......The T hinges, any benefit of using these over regular door hinges? I see they are bent to shape so wonder if it helps with the door swing?......
Mike G wrote:If you were building in summer, then yes. But at this time of the year I'm not sure I'd bother. One thing I would certainly do, though, which I regret not doing, is to pre-paint the boards all round. When the gaps open up you want to see painted wood, not bare wood.
Mike G wrote:ScotlandtheDave wrote:.......The T hinges, any benefit of using these over regular door hinges? I see they are bent to shape so wonder if it helps with the door swing?......
The benefit is that the screw fixings go into the face of the timber, whereas attempting to use butt hinges with a ledged boarded door means the screws will either go into the end-grain of the ledges, or, sod's law, into the gap between the vertical board and the end of the ledge. Worse than even this, it would mean extending the ledge right to the end of the door's width, which will give problems when the boards expand and contract with the seasons. Definitely, definitely use tee hinges. (And the reason for bending them is that they then fix to the inside, meaning the door isn't removable from the outside by anyone with a screwdriver).
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