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Mike's Workshop Build (Extension & slates)

Roll up, roll up. Here you will find everything from new workshop designs, through builds to completed workshop tours. All magnificently overseen by our own Mike G and his tremendously thorough 'Shed' design and generous advice.

Re: Mike's Workshop Build (now with photos)

Postby Wizard9999 » 12 Aug 2014, 11:38

Mike

Thanks for the reply on blocks.

One more question if I may. In terms of design I see you have a couple of hatches to allow for very long lengths of timber to be worked on, but only one window. I would have assumed that a lot of natural light would be a benefit so wondered why so few windows and why not simply make the hatches into windows? Is it a security issue?

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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (now with photos)

Postby Mike G » 12 Aug 2014, 14:10

Windows and hatches are at very different levels, but fundamentally, it is security and cost. I live in an isolated rural dwelling, and although the chances of burglary are slender, the risks are too high to ignore. The window will have some sort of grill behind it, or shutter over it, for security, and having more than one window will just increase my work, costs, and my risks. No rooflights ("Velux") for the same reason.

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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (now with photos)

Postby Wizard9999 » 12 Aug 2014, 14:20

Mike G wrote:Windows and hatches are at very different levels


Doh, there I go, thinking in only 2 dimensions again! :oops:

Thanks, most helpful,
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (brickwork started)

Postby Mike G » 12 Aug 2014, 21:29

I got a few hours at it this afternoon, and finished cleaning up in the dark. The photos are a little behind where I am, but I ran out of light for photography.

First, I made a jig. Woodwork!!! :eusa-dance: There are lots of half bricks in the bond I am using, and it seems easier to bulk cut them with an angle grinder than try and snap each header as I am working. I then spent an hour cutting a whole lot of bricks.
Image

Then I worked out the gauge. Frankly, I worked it out on computer first, but I like to site-check these things:
Image

Then I started building corners. These are pre-brushing, so the pointing looks an awful lot better than this:
Image

I'm a really slow bricklayer, but even so, I should finish the brickwork in 3 or 4 hours work. I went around 3 or 4 different merchants before I found the right coloured sand: most are too dark, and even this could be whiter, but it won't be too bad when it's dry. Before I go any further, I shall have to determine exactly what I am doing regarding doors, because I have to leave a hole for them.

The concrete finish is an absolute joy. I am really pleased to have something so smooth, and level. Sweeping up is such a pleasure!
Last edited by Mike G on 14 Aug 2014, 09:50, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (brickwork started)

Postby TrimTheKing » 12 Aug 2014, 22:49

Oooooh it's starting to take shape! :D

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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (brickwork started)

Postby Wizard9999 » 13 Aug 2014, 06:27

Mike G wrote:There are lots of half bricks in the bond I am using


Mike

Is the choice of bond for purely aesthetic reasons, or is there a practical reason behind it?

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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (brickwork started)

Postby Mike G » 13 Aug 2014, 18:31

Aesthetics only, Terry. I really dislike stretcher bond brickwork, and use Flemish or English garden bond whenever I can. Flemish bond (and most other bonds), originated with 9" brickwork, where the headers held the 2 faces together, like through-stones do in a dry stone wall. Stretcher bond brickwork has really only seen widespread use since cavities started to be built into external walls in the middle of last century.

-

More photos tomorrow, but the brickwork is nearly complete. Tomorrow I'll be putting the straps in, and doing the 50mm blockwork.
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (brickwork started)

Postby Phil » 14 Aug 2014, 05:12

Mike, are you doing all the mixing and laying all by yourself?

Laying bricks low down like that really kills the back.

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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (brickwork started)

Postby Mike G » 14 Aug 2014, 09:48

Yes, all by myself. Frankly, uncomfortable as it was laying bricks by my ankles, it was only about 10 hours work altogether so I gritted my teeth and got on with it. My back is a bit stiff, but not too bad.

Photos later.
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (brickwork started)

Postby Wizard9999 » 14 Aug 2014, 10:11

Mike G wrote:More photos tomorrow, but the brickwork is nearly complete. Tomorrow I'll be putting the straps in, and doing the 50mm blockwork.


Really looking forward to the photos Mike as I am really keen to see how the whole 'strap thing' works; I plan to shamelessly copy your technique on my own build. Hope you have a productive day!

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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (brickwork started)

Postby Mike G » 14 Aug 2014, 10:34

The straps won't be on the next photos, which will be brickwork only. I have decided to do the straps just under the blocks, so they (the straps) will be the next job.

My last workshop, built in a similar manner (albeit with the straps set into the concrete, and a 4" rather than a 6" wide plinth), showed me something quite interesting. In clearing it recently, I discovered that I had forgotten to secure the straps to the wall plate. In other words, the studwork, and thus everything above the plinth and DPC, was sitting in place through gravity alone! It hadn't moved a millimetre in the 18 years it has stood there in all weather. The many 100 mph gales we've had had no effect on it whatsoever. Now, I'm not about to omit straps altogether from my new building in spite of that experience, but I am going to be using Compriband instead of the 5mm thick straps you get from builder's merchants.

As for copying me...........that's the whole point of posting my drawings and doing this thread. If I can get a few people to put their new sheds up on a low plinth, then my good deed is done. As I've said many a time.........timber building without a plinth = temporary shed. Timber building with a plinth = workshop.
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (brickwork finished)

Postby Mike G » 14 Aug 2014, 19:07

Here are the latest photos, showing the completed brickwork. Despite being rather a slow bricklayer I am quite pleased with how this looks.

Image
Image
Image

The reason for 3 courses of bricks, rather than the 2 in my original sketch scheme from years back on UKW (where?) is that I will be backing this up with 50mm blockwork, which is 3 courses of bricks high unless you want to spend hours and hours cutting blocks.

Next job is straps, then blockwork, then the timber frame wood arrives on Monday. Things should start to happen quite quickly then.
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (brickwork finished)

Postby Rod » 14 Aug 2014, 20:06

What sort of bricks are they - they look quite "soft"?

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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (brickwork finished)

Postby 9fingers » 14 Aug 2014, 20:09

Mike,

Always an exciting time when building start getting out of the ground.
I can't quite see how your damproofing is going to work. I assume the black poly is the under slab DPM, so what is to stop moisture getting into the slab via the external brickwork and the vertical edge of the slab?

Apologies if this is a dumb question

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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (brickwork finished)

Postby Wizard9999 » 14 Aug 2014, 20:25

Looking really nice Mike! :text-bravo:

I think three courses will look really good, only two courses would run the risk of looking a bit mean, IMHO.

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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (brickwork finished)

Postby Mike G » 14 Aug 2014, 20:30

It isn't a dumb question at all, Bob. In fact, it is a very important one.

The concrete stays dry because of the DPM underneath, and because the upper edge of the slab is above ground level, enabling it to dry with air movement. I will be cutting the polythene back to where it turns up the edge of the slab. If I were to leave the polythene up the edge of the slab and tuck it under the brickwork, UV would destroy it in no time flat. Obviously things would be very different if the slab were below ground level, but some of mine (at the back) is about 9 inches above ground level.

We're talking about 160 to 350mm of C35 concrete here, and whilst I wouldn't advocate it, it would probably stay dry if there were no DPM at all. There is no way of having the DPM stop at ground level, even if you wanted it to. The DPC will be on top of the plinth, under the timber, and this is mainly because bricks absorb moisture then release it slowly, thus can remain damp for some while.

The proof of this particular pudding is in the eating, and the way to test for moisture in a slab is to put a piece of plastic on top of it for a day of two, and see if a dark patch emerges. Well, I did this with my previous workshop built to this same design, and it was dry as a bone.
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (brickwork finished)

Postby Mike G » 14 Aug 2014, 20:32

Wizard9999 wrote:Looking really nice Mike! :text-bravo:

I think three courses will look really good, only two courses would run the risk of looking a bit mean, IMHO.

Wizard9999.


Thanks Terry, and you're right. However, I'm conscious that some following on here will be looking to build their workshop as frugally as possible, and 2 bricks is the bare minimum to ensure a plinth works.
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (brickwork finished)

Postby 9fingers » 14 Aug 2014, 20:40

Mike G wrote:It isn't a dumb question at all, Bob. In fact, it is a very important one.

The concrete stays dry because of the DPM underneath, and because the upper edge of the slab is above ground level, enabling it to dry with air movement. I will be cutting the polythene back to where it turns up the edge of the slab. If I were to leave the polythene up the edge of the slab and tuck it under the brickwork, UV would destroy it in no time flat. Obviously things would be very different if the slab were below ground level, but some of mine (at the back) is about 9 inches above ground level.

We're talking about 160 to 350mm of C35 concrete here, and whilst I wouldn't advocate it, it would probably stay dry if there were no DPM at all. There is no way of having the DPM stop at ground level, even if you wanted it to. The DPC will be on top of the plinth, under the timber, and this is mainly because bricks absorb moisture then release it slowly, thus can remain damp for some while.

The proof of this particular pudding is in the eating, and the way to test for moisture in a slab is to put a piece of plastic on top of it for a day of two, and see if a dark patch emerges. Well, I did this with my previous workshop built to this same design, and it was dry as a bone.


Ok Thanks Mike I understand now but a couple of things come to mind. It will be important to keep grass/weed growth away from the plinth and any cupboards or other restrictions to letting the slab breathe, need to be kept away from the walls.

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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (brickwork finished)

Postby Mike G » 14 Aug 2014, 20:41

Rod wrote:What sort of bricks are they - they look quite "soft"?

Rod


They're a soft red called Renaissance, made by Terca (now called Wienerberger).http://www.cornishlime.co.uk/stores/product-info.php?auto=220&cat=2&sub=33 I have used their Olde Essex from the same range for many years, but wanted something that looked just old, without looking reclaimed. These are designed to look hand-made, but are a machine made brick with lots of variation, and no straight lines. They're surprisingly cheap, too, and are a stock item at most of my local Builder's Merchants. I shall be using them for the house extension, too, as I am impressed with them.
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (brickwork finished)

Postby Mike G » 14 Aug 2014, 20:46

9fingers wrote:Ok Thanks Mike I understand now but a couple of things come to mind. It will be important to keep grass/weed growth away from the plinth

Correct, although soil level is more important than plant growth.

9fingers wrote: and any cupboards or other restrictions to letting the slab breathe, need to be kept away from the walls.


No, it is only the outside edges of the slab that need air to them. Bear in mind that moisture can only get in from the outside edge, and it just doesn't penetrate 6 inches in to the concrete, (and up) to clear the underside of the walls. The slab inside is not part of the ventilated-slab scheme, and you could perfectly well put a floating floor on this slab without running into trouble with trapped moisture.
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (brickwork finished)

Postby 9fingers » 14 Aug 2014, 20:52

Thanks for the explanation and putting up with my questions.

I doubt if I'll ever put up another building in my lifetime but it is all stored away just in case!!

Cheers

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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (brickwork finished)

Postby Mike G » 14 Aug 2014, 20:58

I'm not "putting up with your questions", Bob. They're astute, and the sort of detail which keeps me awake at night. All of your questions I have asked myself.

-

Just as a caveat, in case anyone really needs it: this construction technique is for outbuildings only. It is NEVER to be used for an extension of a house. Things get very different there, and building straight off a flat slab would almost never happen.
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (brickwork finished)

Postby Wizard9999 » 14 Aug 2014, 21:20

Mike G wrote:No, it is only the outside edges of the slab that need air to them. Bear in mind that moisture can only get in from the outside edge, and it just doesn't penetrate 6 inches in to the concrete, (and up) to clear the underside of the walls. The slab inside is not part of the ventilated-slab scheme, and you could perfectly well put a floating floor on this slab without running into trouble with trapped moisture.


Mike

A couple of questions if I may. You say that the outside edge needs air to it and if I read correctly the slab is anywhere between 160 and 350mm thick. How much of it needs to be above surrounding ground level to allow sufficient exposure to the air? Is there an absolute minimum, e.g. 50mm, or is it proportionate, e.g. top 20% of slab.

As I need to stay under 2.5m high as I will be within 2m of my boundary every 1mm of exposed slab is a 1mm less headroom. So I will need to minimise the amount of slab above ground level, but want the 'system' to work. Would an approach whereby a trench is dug around the outside of the slab and filled with gravel provide sufficient air circulation even if the top of the slab is level with ground level?

Thanks in advance,
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (brickwork finished)

Postby Mike G » 14 Aug 2014, 21:42

Well, if you are going to have the slab at ground level, Terry, you can wrap the polythene around the the edge of the slab and under the brickwork. Then loose fill such as shingle around the perimeter would be ideal, especially if you can lay a French drain in it too. If you are exposing the edge to the air, then I suggest 50mm as a minimum.

Headroom needn't be much of an issue, though, however low the building, because you needn't have any joists in the ceiling/ roof.

BTW, my slab is 350 thick in one location because there was some horrible loose made-up ground under one corner. In reasonable soil I would have made the slab 150 thick, and maybe thickened up the edges to 200.
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (brickwork finished)

Postby TheTiddles » 14 Aug 2014, 22:25

Are you still in the new (old) house that you designed and I saw in Suffolk years ago?

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