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Mike's Workshop Build (Extension)

Roll up, roll up. Here you will find everything from new workshop designs, through builds to completed workshop tours. All magnificently overseen by our own Mike G and his tremendously thorough 'Shed' design and generous advice.

Re: Mike's Workshop Build (Extension)

Postby Mike G » 06 Oct 2016, 07:03

I don't have a hygrometer, and I had a major catastrophic failure of the roof membrane in a storm a couple of weeks back (I've replaced the membrane since). Two inches of water on a workshop floor is a disaster, so the dehumidifier (plus wonderful drying weather since) have probably left me suffering above-average humidity levels ATM.
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (Extension)

Postby Wizard9999 » 06 Oct 2016, 13:00

Mike G wrote:I don't have a hygrometer, and I had a major catastrophic failure of the roof membrane in a storm a couple of weeks back (I've replaced the membrane since). Two inches of water on a workshop floor is a disaster, so the dehumidifier (plus wonderful drying weather since) have probably left me suffering above-average humidity levels ATM.


Sure you didn't need that Mike :(
Any idea when you'll finally get the slates on?

Terry.
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (Extension)

Postby Mike G » 06 Oct 2016, 13:53

No, I really didn't Terry. Luckily, almost all of my tools are in the house at the moment.

I'm hoping to slate it within a couple or 3 weeks.
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (Extension)

Postby greeno » 06 Oct 2016, 17:25

Mike,

Just going back a few posts to the cladding.

In your original design on UKW you vented the void behind the cladding at the bottom and the top, under the eaves.

In this build it looks like you haven't vented at the top as you put those inserts (beginning of post on P8) in the eaves between the rafters.

Any reason you didn't vent at the top?
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (Extension)

Postby Mike G » 06 Oct 2016, 20:11

Hi Greeno.

That's an insightful question. Actually, the venting at the bottom is more a product of the drip detail, and to let any moisture out that finds its way in behind the boards. With sawn feather-edged boards, butt jointed, there is probably enough ventilation with all the inadvertant gaps without doing anything specific at all..........when dealing with a workshop. It would be a different story when talking about a heated permanently-occupied building with moisture sources.
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (Extension)

Postby tabs » 08 Nov 2016, 21:10

I was going to ask this in a separate thread but really can't see which forum I would put it in. Anyway on page 2 of this thread Mike you posted some photos of your slab. One of them shows a box in the floor and some blue flexible pipe coming out from under the salb for the power and network cables. Could you tell me what type of box you used and what is that flebxile blue pipe called? Cheers
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (Extension)

Postby Mike G » 08 Nov 2016, 22:10

The box is home-made of wood, and the ducting was some crinkly-walled ducting I picked up in a barn sale. As an unfortunate aside, I stupidly threaded the wrong cable through the duct before I poured concrete, some of which must have got into the conduit somewhere locking it solidly in place. I therefore can only have only socket in the floor rather than the two I wanted.
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (Extension)

Postby 9fingers » 08 Nov 2016, 22:20

Mike G wrote:The box is home-made of wood, and the ducting was some crinkly-walled ducting I picked up in a barn sale. As an unfortunate aside, I stupidly threaded the wrong cable through the duct before I poured concrete, some of which must have got into the conduit somewhere locking it solidly in place. I therefore can only have only socket in the floor rather than the two I wanted.


How about pouring some brick acid down the conduit Mike? once it has freed up you can neutralise it with some washing soda.

Bob
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (Extension)

Postby Mike G » 08 Nov 2016, 22:39

That's a thought, Bob, but I'd need to able to clean it out again before pulling the new cable through. I doubt I could be sure of achieving that.
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (Extension)

Postby 9fingers » 08 Nov 2016, 22:49

Mike G wrote:That's a thought, Bob, but I'd need to able to clean it out again before pulling the new cable through. I doubt I could be sure of achieving that.


Thats why you neutralise it afterwards. You can then mop it out with rag or if there is still a route to the outside, shove a hose down it. Not likely to hurt new cable anyway. Tape over the open end as you pull it through.

Bob
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