It is currently 28 Mar 2024, 12:07
RogerS wrote:Mark, is your staff bead already cut to width ? It looks like it. How do you fix it to your template?
Totally agree with you re training on a spindle moulder. Always remember reading that a router table will remove a finger, a spindle moulder a hand.
One forgets the sheer power of these things. I was cutting a tenon on mine one day and I'd not tightened up the timber and backer board properly. I was also hogging out perhaps a bit too much. The inevitable happened as I passed the timber over the cutters. They snatched the timber from out of the clamp with such force that it was fired out of the back of the dust collection port and through the extraction hose finally embedding itself in the plasterboard. These things happen so fast one has no time to react and which is why I get really annoyed with the cavalier advice of a certain poster over on UKW who thinks that you can always get your hands out of the way in time. Downright dangerous advice IMO.
RogerS wrote:
Oh, that is brilliant...absolutely, bloody brilliant
I'd never have thought in a million years of doing something like that.
kirkpoore1 wrote:.... I don't have a feeder, but everyone I've talked to that uses their spindle molder for long runs with complex profiles swears by them.
Kirk
meccarroll wrote:....
I added a capillary grove on the bottom of the cill on this window but its purpose in this case was to allow a bedding compound to fill the gap and form a seal between the stonework below and wood cill:
.....
Mark
meccarroll wrote:....
RogerS,
Not sure why you had the problem with bedding compound, choose the right one and they are supposed to stay flexible. A lime motor would be a good alternative I suppose. Shame the problem occurred though.
Mark
RogerS wrote:....
Was it very difficult to revers the motor on your spindle moulder Roger?
Mark
TrimTheKing wrote:Fixed it for you
meccarroll wrote:After tenoning was complete, rebates and mouldings were put on the stock using a spindle moulder. I used a router with table to put a groove in the lower meeting rail to receive the glass (only the top meeting rail receives a rebate) the lower one has a groove:
Grooving the lower meeting rail on a router table.
...
Not much more to show so will continue later.
Mark
9fingers wrote:Not quite sure how I'm supposed to divine what you did Roger? You would have course drawn a diagram and tucked it inside the terminal box for the benefit of anyone taking over your machine
But all that is needed should be to configure a switch to make the changes shown in the diagram in your first photo.
Be aware that the motor will only reverse if stopped, then the switch flipped and finally restarted.
If you change the switch with the motor running, nothing will happen or in the case of a capacitor start and run motor, it will likely go bang.
In an ideal world the reversing switch should be linked into the DOL starter to force the motor into the stop state when changing direction.
Bob
RogerS wrote:Kirk, unless I'm mistaken as to how Mark is making his window, that groove is at the top.
The way that the two meeting rails 'meet' can be a pit for the unwary when making sash windows DAMHIKT !
kirkpoore1 wrote:RogerS wrote:Kirk, unless I'm mistaken as to how Mark is making his window, that groove is at the top.
The way that the two meeting rails 'meet' can be a pit for the unwary when making sash windows DAMHIKT !
Ah, I misunderstood then. I was thinking "lower" meant the bottom of the sash.
Thanks...
Kirk
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