It is currently 29 Mar 2024, 14:03
RogerS wrote:Excellent, Mark. Looking forward to this one.
kirkpoore1 wrote:Mark:
Looks like a good setup. I don't have have a ring fence on my spindle molder (aka shaper, in my neck of the woods), so I use rub collars. Also, I will often clamp the work and the pattern in a jig to keep my hands farther away from the spindle. Here is an example:
In this case I have a couple of Destaco clamps holding the pattern and piece down, and the jig extends under the workpiece so that the unit is clamped together. I have a purpose built guard box to keep my hands further away and also give my dust collector a fighting chance and the chips. The lid is flipped back so you can see the work.
I'm sure you also know to arrange as much of your cutting as possible to reduce tearout. You can't always avoid it, like on these rounded shapes, but you can minimize it. Or you can go really old school and get a double spindle shaper and have two cutterheads going in opposite directions.
Kirk
9fingers wrote:I have a similar looking spindle liberated from an early kity combi (CK26) but not used a ring fence before
I presume the radius of the ring has to be greater than the radius of block plus cutter so that the profile remains true to the template.
Bob
RogerS wrote:Are you feeding that through freehand as in the picture without any handles a la Kirk? That would scare me s**tless. How do you feed the last few inches through while all the time keeping the pressure against the cutter block and keeping your fingers and hands out of harms way ?
kirkpoore1 wrote:RogerS wrote:Are you feeding that through freehand as in the picture without any handles a la Kirk? That would scare me s**tless. How do you feed the last few inches through while all the time keeping the pressure against the cutter block and keeping your fingers and hands out of harms way ?
Roger, if I may reply before Mark, you shift your hands as you go. If, for example, I'm rounding corners on a piece of curved stock, I won't use a pattern or jig, just a rub collar sized to the inner radius of the cutter. As I cut, I will move the first hand past the cutter after a few inches of rounding, and then move the back hand past the cutter before cutting the last few inches. This is not really a big deal on small cuts. For a tall straight cut, though, I much prefer the security of the holding jig.
Kirk
kirkpoore1 wrote:I'm not trying to hijack Mark's post, but I was making chair legs today like I was doing in the picture above, and got a big reminder of the risk of blowout you take when cutting "against" the grain:
This piece is actually upside down, and I was actually cutting from left to right.
Kirk
Robert wrote:Interesting. I feel I know a lot more about spindle moulders now.
Still think they are scary things though
meccarroll wrote:Kirk, please do keep adding comments and pictures. It's good to have the input and adds balance to the thread.
One question for you, Kirk, when you set your shaper and rub collars is the depth of cut pre set like a router cutter with bearing guide or can you make any adjustment to depth of cut in any way?
Many thank's Mark
meccarroll wrote:The spindle moulder is one of the machines I use most and probably find most adaptable in the work I do. A lot of people would prefere to use a router set in a table to emulate a spindle moulder and depending on the work you do can be used as a substitute, I'd find one too limiting though.
I have been very fortunate in that I was taught both at college and work how to use a spindle moulder (few years ago now) and some processes can be a bit tricky. It's better to obtain some tuition before making a purchase or using one though (IMHO).
Mark
meccarroll wrote:Well I think it's pretty clear at this stage how I have set up and machined my components to shape so I'll just show a couple of pictures of some staff bead which basically used the same process as already described above, this is the stage I start to profile the mouldings and rebates:
Close up of the ring fence, cutter, temp[late and bead being machined:
The finished staff bead:
Mark
kirkpoore1 wrote:
On the other hand, I don't need to be nearly as careful as you do with your ring guard to keep the cut point at the same location. So there's weaknesses to every method, I guess.
Kirk
kirkpoore1 wrote:
That's good that you had some classes. I'm sure I've missed some good techniques and probably have some safety shortcomings because I'm self-taught (and read a couple of books). I did start on a fairly small shaper, though, which was less intimidating.
Kirk
tyke wrote:Mark
Thanks for a very imformative post. I have a much better appreciation of how a spindle moulder works and can also now see why training is a must given the care needed to set it up correctly.
Andy
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