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Bedroom Cupboards

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Bedroom Cupboards

Postby meccarroll » 20 Nov 2016, 08:25

Some basic bedroom cupboards made recently from MDF (A home job):

Drawings:

Main Cupboard, room height.
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Two sets of draws
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The cupboards are made from 18mm and 25mm MR MDF. Doors are framed with 18mm MDF with a 6mm panel inset. Cupboard frames and shelving are 25mm and 18mm MR MDF. All spray finished with A/C high build primer and semi matt A/C topcoat.

This is the cutter-set used to machine the profile for the doors, it's an Omas 426-1 cabinet door set capable of machining up to 22mm doors:

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It was used to produced this profile and counter profile for the doors with a 6mm groove for the panel:

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Just post this up so i don't loose it.

Mark
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Re: Bedroom Cupboards

Postby meccarroll » 20 Nov 2016, 09:31

A smal kity spindle moulder with sliding carriage was used for the moulding and end profiling.

End profiling with the Omas cutter set and spindle moulder sliding carriage:

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Rail ends profiled and top rail has mould applied:
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Stack of square edge stiles waiting to be moulded:
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Stiles being moulded:

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The Omas set of cutters is used again for the mould but the blocks are flipped (top for bottom) so the mould profile is on top instead of underneath and the sliding carriage is swapped for a fence.

The result of the two machining operations:

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Post some more later.

Thank you for looking so far, Mark
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Re: Bedroom Cupboards

Postby meccarroll » 20 Nov 2016, 10:19

A view of the Omas cutter set used:

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Top left shows two set ups, one for rail end profile and the other for moulding.

There are two discs A and B (as seen in above picture):

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Disc A machines the rebates, groove and shoulder scribe:

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Disc B machines the mould and counter scribe for the rail shoulders:

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Place the discs one on top of the other in the spindle moulder as below (A over B) for the the shoulder scribes (using the spindle moulder sliding carriage):

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Then flip them using Disc B over Disc A for the mould and grooving operation (using the spindle moulder fence set up):

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Note previous pictures shoe the discs in operation.

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Re: Bedroom Cupboards

Postby meccarroll » 20 Nov 2016, 10:30

One of the doors being glued up:

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The shoulders on the rails are profiled the correct width so the width of the doors at glue up stage is not a problem but the height has nothing to locate it in place (no tenon and mortice or domino location) so I used sticks cut to hold the rails at the correct height between the internal stiles. Using sticks ensured the doors had the correct width and height.

Some of the doors glued up:
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Cheers, Mark
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Re: Bedroom Cupboards

Postby Robert » 20 Nov 2016, 10:53

so if you are using 'sticks' to space the rails does that mean the panel is not glued to the rails (apart from glue that spreads from the rail joints) ?

Interesting to see the tooling detail too. The MRMDF profiling looks nice and clean cut.
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Re: Bedroom Cupboards

Postby meccarroll » 20 Nov 2016, 11:28

Robert wrote:so if you are using 'sticks' to space the rails does that mean the panel is not glued to the rails (apart from glue that spreads from the rail joints) ?

Interesting to see the tooling detail too. The MRMDF profiling looks nice and clean cut.


1. The rails are cut to length so when you cramp between them the width is determined by the length of the rail.

2. The height is not determined by the panel in this case as I allowed it to be a couple of millimetres short of the internal groove (height and width) dimension (as per normal fitting).

3. With the Omas system there is no bearing for the height of the rails, the rail simply slides up and down the stiles and you choose where to locate it. Of course once in place you have to ensure it stays there until the glue goes off so I used sticks to gage this for me. I could have used the mdf panels cut to form the height but everything would have had to have been 100% spot on when machining. My panel saw was not set up at that stage for the accuracy needed, so the system I used allowed me to make the necessary adjustments. Not perfect but it worked at the time.

My panel saw takes up a lot of my working space if I set it up correctly with all the bits and as I mainly do site work and not cabinet (sheet) work I tend to use it stripped down as a rip saw. I have a few jobs coming along requiring sheet material to be dimensioned so I'm going to make the the effort for the extra space needed (clear up some junk :lol: ) and set the machine up correctly for future use.

The panels were glued in place around the edges but not as a continuous glue joint.

Hope this answers your query Robert and thank's for asking.

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Re: Bedroom Cupboards

Postby Pinch » 20 Nov 2016, 11:59

You put together some excellent threads Mark and I reckon this one is going to be a darn gooden too. 8-)

:text-bravo:
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Re: Bedroom Cupboards

Postby Malc2098 » 20 Nov 2016, 12:26

Isn't it amazing how pretty MDF can look. Nice work!
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Re: Bedroom Cupboards

Postby meccarroll » 21 Nov 2016, 10:33

Pinch wrote:You put together some excellent threads Mark and I reckon this one is going to be a darn gooden too. 8-)

:text-bravo:


Thank you Mr Pinch, I'm not intending going into too much detail on this one but thought the detail on the Omas cutter set might be interesting to anyone contemplating a similar set.

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Re: Bedroom Cupboards

Postby meccarroll » 21 Nov 2016, 10:35

Malc2098 wrote:Isn't it amazing how pretty MDF can look. Nice work!


MDF pretty :eusa-think: Well I guess it can be ;) . I made cornice for this using MDF and it came out just fine.

Cheers Mal
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Re: Bedroom Cupboards

Postby meccarroll » 21 Nov 2016, 10:47

Just to make sure the doors would fit on site I made a temporary right angle to simulate a square frame using a sheet of MDF a level and straight piece of mdf. The Level and straight piece of mdf were squared on the sheet of mdf and clamped in the corner. I then took each door, lay them together against the right angle corner and trued up any minor discrepancies between them. I numbered each door so when they were re-fit on site they would align correctly:

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Re: Bedroom Cupboards

Postby meccarroll » 21 Nov 2016, 11:02

One of the construction joints used was cam and dowel. I used this on the draw carcasses and on some of the shelving and partition:

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This method allowed me to make the draw carcasses dry, spray each component then re-assemble after spraying.

Some of the carcasses dry assembled with cam and dowels:

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A close up of a cam dowel and cam lock fixing in front:

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Close up of cam lock:

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All you need to do is turn the cam lock and because it is eccentric it tightens when turned against the metal pin head:

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Thank you for looking so far.

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Re: Bedroom Cupboards

Postby Phil » 21 Nov 2016, 12:28

Good work there.

Like the camlock idea. :text-+1:
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Re: Bedroom Cupboards

Postby TrimTheKing » 21 Nov 2016, 12:56

:text-goodpost:
Cheers
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Re: Bedroom Cupboards

Postby Malc2098 » 21 Nov 2016, 12:57

:text-+1:
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Re: Bedroom Cupboards

Postby Andyp » 21 Nov 2016, 13:04

Great stuff. Are you not tempted to add some glue along those mating surfaces and not just rely on the cam lock fittings?
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Re: Bedroom Cupboards

Postby meccarroll » 21 Nov 2016, 19:57

Andyp wrote:Great stuff. Are you not tempted to add some glue along those mating surfaces and not just rely on the cam lock fittings?


Hi Andy, I used the cam lock so I could assemble the draw carcasses and hold the joints together dry. I then took the draw carcasses apart so I could spray them laying flat (I have found it to be best way to spray flat surfaces using A/C paint).

Because I had already made a dry assembly prior to spraying the parts, I knew that after I had sprayed the carcasses I could take individual parts to location and assemble on site (no need for cramps as cam fixing do that for you) and apply glue to the joints and wooden dowels on final assembly, leave to one side to dry than fix in location.

There are obviously other ways to do what I did but using cam fixings worked for me in this situation and they are not expensive.

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Re: Bedroom Cupboards

Postby meccarroll » 21 Nov 2016, 21:27

In the room to be fitted, wallpaper stripped so good to go:

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Cupboards part fit, front frame (25x70mm MRMDF) pre-fixed with confirmat screws then taken apart, sprayed and re-assembled on site. Shelf, top cover scribe and dividing panel 18mm MRMDF:

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Picture (sorry about quality) shows dividing panel and top shelf fixed to main frame using cam fixings:

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Re: Bedroom Cupboards

Postby meccarroll » 21 Nov 2016, 21:48

The intermediate shelf shown below, was fixed in place to the middle partition using four 10mm wooden dowels:

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I propped the shelf in position then drilled four 10mm holes through the partition into the shelf, this meant that when I fit the dowels in the shelf and re-fit it the holes would be perfectly aligned:

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After I had aligned the shelf on one side I took it out and repeated the process for the shelf in the cupboard on the other side of the partition using the same holes.

I fit and glued the 10mm wood dowels in the edge of the shelves and then re-fit the intermediate shelves in location to the dividing panel:

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At this point I ran out of constructional pictures so will jump to the final cupboards next.

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Re: Bedroom Cupboards

Postby meccarroll » 21 Nov 2016, 21:58

Picture below of cupboards fit (no handles at this stage):

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The picture below shows the cupboards with handles stuck on with double sided tape. I first stuck masking tape on the doors to vive me a visual idea of what the cupboards would look like with handles at that position. I then used double sided tape to stick the handles onto the cupboards in various locations to see what would look right.

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And after consultation with the BOSS, this is where they ended:

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Thank you so far Mark
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Re: Bedroom Cupboards

Postby meccarroll » 21 Nov 2016, 22:07

Pictures of almost finished and finished cupboards:

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Thank you very much for looking.

Regards Mark
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Re: Bedroom Cupboards

Postby Phil » 22 Nov 2016, 06:21

That looks very smart Mark.

The drawer unit - any reason why it's in that position with a blind corner inside the cupboard?

Cheers
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Re: Bedroom Cupboards

Postby meccarroll » 22 Nov 2016, 08:18

Hi Phil,

The draw unit :eusa-think: ............see original drawing below:

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The width of the room allows for cupboards and two sets of draws either side of a double or king size bed. This meant that if draws were required outside of the cupboards one set had to be adjacent to the cupboards. Hence the blind corner. It was a compromise between the space available to build and what was required.

It is a design compromise I suppose but it does work and access to the corner is not as restricted as you might think.

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Thank you for the comment Phil.

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Re: Bedroom Cupboards

Postby Robert » 22 Nov 2016, 12:24

I was thinking that cupboard door would knock stuff off the bedside cabinet but that last picture makes it clear you could have an alarm clock near the bed and a book both missed by the door. Nice solution. Like the paint too.
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Re: Bedroom Cupboards

Postby Tusses » 22 Nov 2016, 12:44

Robert wrote:I was thinking that cupboard door would knock stuff off the bedside cabinet but that last picture makes it clear you could have an alarm clock near the bed and a book both missed by the door. Nice solution. Like the paint too.


I was thinking similar, maybe a bit more clearance would have been useful ?

Nice job though :-)
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