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Picture frames

This is where we don't want anything but evidence of your finest wood butchering in all its glorious, and photograph laden glory. Bring your finished products or WIP's, we love them all, so long as there's pictures, and plenty of 'em!

Picture frames

Postby 9fingers » 13 Aug 2014, 16:38

SWMBO has been collecting various scenic prints from holiday destination for several years now and I've been saying I'd frame them on a round-2-it basis.
We got one to take to a friend when we visit next month so I thought I'd better get a practise one underway as I've not made my own frame stock before.

This is not a particularly ambitious section.

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about 45mm wide made on the table saw with the blade inclined at 15 degrees and then a rebate for the picture, glass and backer done on the router table.

Mitred and glued with a band clamp and let to dry on a flat surface. I wanted a plain frame so as not to distract from the picture but felt the beech needed livening up a but so I decided to fit contrasting tenons across the corner joints.

So out with the trusty 4mm kerf, flat top ground blade I got from cutting solutions that I like to use for all my Norm-esque table saw joinery.

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Dust off the tablesaw tenoning jig - marvellous tool and regularly discounted by Rutlands- every table saw owner should have one.

Then mounted up the frame at 45 degrees using the jig stops

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and in close up at the business end

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I soon had some 25mm deep x 4mm wide perfectly flat bottomed grooves across each corner. If I'd used a normal ATB blade, the bottom of the groove would have been "W" shaped

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Then over to the thicknesser to make some strip of iroko 4mm thick and about 30mm wide (no photo - you all know what a thicknesser looks like - and I forgot to take one :lol: )

Chopped up into triangles all apart from the last one - I was not going to change my name to 8 fingers!!


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and one dry fitted in a corner slot

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Quite a deep slot and none of my glue brushes were suitable so biscuit adaptor for the glue bottle to the rescue - just right at 4mm wide.

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Glued, fitted and drying.

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Didn't really need to photo that step really eh?

Then I used a tool that rarely sees the light of day in my woodworking methods, a low angle block plane was just right to trim the tenon within a gnats whatnot of the frame prior to a sanding through the grits of the finished article.

Image

In fact this last photo is of the little sample frame I made up from the offcuts of the main one - the glue is still drying of the deliverable job whilst I have a cuppa and write this up.

Fleabay delivered a gun to fire in the "points" to hold the picture in place today so off to get some 2mm glass tomorrow have a play with the gun ( a sort of uprated staple gun) and the job's a good un.

When I get to making the batch of frames, I might do the chamfer on the spindle as my table saw method did give me a little too much variation from piece to piece - still, learning about the problems was the object of the exercise.

Thanks for reading

Bob
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Re: Picture frames

Postby Wizard9999 » 13 Aug 2014, 17:27

Very nice Bob! :text-bravo:
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Re: Picture frames

Postby Froggy » 13 Aug 2014, 17:29

Very nice frames Bob. I like the simplicity. And a reminder that I also have several to make for prints bought by the missus a few years ago :oops: and some more recent photos that she wants framing.
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Re: Picture frames

Postby Andyp » 13 Aug 2014, 17:38

Very Nice Bob, and timely too. But why do you need a gun can't you just use a hammer or is that another hand tool that rarely sees the light of day in your workshop :D
I do not think therefore I do not am.

cheers
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Re: Picture frames

Postby 9fingers » 13 Aug 2014, 18:02

Andyp wrote:Very Nice Bob, and timely too. But why do you need a gun can't you just use a hammer or is that another hand tool that rarely sees the light of day in your workshop :D


I suppose I rarely use a standard hammer or nails as it happens.

The "points" are steel tabs around 0.5mm thick like this http://tinyurl.com/lwcfszc so no real chance of driving them with a hammer and getting them flush to the backer board.

They can also be used for holding glass in a window frame prior to puttying (or beading I guess)

hth

Bob
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Re: Picture frames

Postby Merlin » 13 Aug 2014, 19:57

Nice frame Bob.
I like the feathers - a very nice touch.

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Re: Picture frames

Postby 9fingers » 13 Aug 2014, 20:08

Merlin wrote:
I like the feathers

Merlin



Thanks Merlin - I've learnt the proper name for them!

Bob
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Re: Picture frames

Postby Rod » 13 Aug 2014, 20:31

I use those framing pins but use the hand tool.

Are you going to mount the prints, because if you do use acid free paper - the cheaper stuff will turn brown and leach through damaging the original?

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Re: Picture frames

Postby 9fingers » 13 Aug 2014, 20:46

There is no mount involved Rod, just the print which has a border already, glass and frame with hardboard back.
I could seal the hardboard, if you think that is needed or put a plastic film behind the print?

Bob
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Re: Picture frames

Postby stephen.wood125 » 13 Aug 2014, 21:05

lovely job, Bob.

Great to see as both a reasonably quick 'end to end' project but also a nice learning experience!

I love to get the opportunity to refine/totally discard something I'm planning by experimentation. :text-bravo:
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Re: Picture frames

Postby Woodbloke » 13 Aug 2014, 21:24

9fingers wrote:... a low angle block plane was just right to trim the tenon within a gnats whatnot of the frame prior to a sanding through the grits of the finished article.

Bob


Good grief Bob :shock: I've just fallen off me chair! There's hope for you yet :lol: - Rob
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Re: Picture frames

Postby 9fingers » 13 Aug 2014, 21:35

Woodbloke wrote:
9fingers wrote:... a low angle block plane was just right to trim the tenon within a gnats whatnot of the frame prior to a sanding through the grits of the finished article.

Bob


Good grief Bob :shock: I've just fallen off me chair! There's hope for you yet :lol: - Rob[/quote

I did wonder if you would be up to the shock of me fessing up. I do use the block plane from time to time just to break an edge or chamfer perhaps. However the No4 is only really useful as weight when gluing up or to prop the door open :lol:

Bob
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Re: Picture frames

Postby nathandavies » 13 Aug 2014, 21:45

could you not take the bulk of the chamfer off with the table saw and then run through the thicknesser on a chamfer jig?

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Re: Picture frames

Postby 9fingers » 13 Aug 2014, 22:10

nathandavies wrote:could you not take the bulk of the chamfer off with the table saw and then run through the thicknesser on a chamfer jig?

Nathan


An interesting thought Nathan.
This time I was trying to be super economic ( mean, tight etc :lol: ) and diagonally splitting a rectangular section timber to yield two pieces of frame stock.
The finish straight off my saw is very good and usually only needs a light sanding before applying finish.
But a thicknesser jig would make the job easier a slightly less stressful as I find beech can bun very easily if I slow the feed speed down through the saw and I could plane those out.

:obscene-drinkingcheers: :text-goodpost:
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