So first job was to correct the overhang on one of the long glulam pairs. The problem was 'How'. Ideally I needed to lift the end of the 61kg glulam completely out of the hangar, keeping the other end secured, holding it vertically and then sawing off the overhang. A challenge for just me. But Necessity being the Mother.....
First put a reserve support at the other end in case the glulam popped out of the hanger. I didn't think it would as the amount of movement in an upward direction(resulting in the bottom moving away from the other glulam)as a result of lifting the other end would be negligible given the length of the glulam.
A similar support at the other end, a block of wood to give some initial lift (I'd decided to cut the overhang off little by little to minimise the amount of time the glulam would be out of the hanger) plus a lateral support at the top that would let me clamp the glulam to.
It was a struggle lifting the glulam that little bit and being able to slide the raiser block in, I can tell you. I then used the Fein to remove the topmost part of the overhang. But I knew that the raiser block was too dodgy to go any higher as trying to lift the glulam and slide in the block was difficult. So ....
and that was as high as I needed to go. Yet another occasion when the Fein came into its own. That little tool has dug me out of so many holes.
Next up was adjusting the alignment of the glulams and the rim boards. This would entail removing the temporary screws holding the rim board and so I needed some vertical support to stop it falling off while I made the adjustments.
Once I'd got the rim beam in the right place, it was a question of raising the shorter glulam slightly and Acro'ing it over to once more touch the rim beam.
I also remembered that I had a 5m staging board which with the two towers and their platforms meant I could easily tackle almost the whole length of the rim beam and glulam. Because by this time I'd gone out and bought the Paslode. I'dforgotten what a great bit of kit itwas (once I'd put the nails in the right place
). So, so quick to bang in the nails every 150mm to secure the rim beam to the bearer, made even easier by the staging board.
Then a coat of LOP on as much as I could as I was running out of paint.
One SNAFU was that I didn't realise that the hanger was wider than the glulam. So I ended up putting it in the wrong place leaving this gap. I'll figure out some sort of cosmetic cover-up when I move 'inside' the orangerie.
Coley asked about LOP earlier on in the thread. I think it's still a great paint but it does have one drawback which I call 'transference'. LOP is great on bare wood and dries quickly. Subsequent coats need to be put on wafer thin if they are to dry in a reasonable timeframe. The trouble is all the other things that invariably get some paint on. Such as the outside of the tin. The paintbrush handle. I wear nitrile gloves when I paint. These get liberally covered in paint. Which never dries. So then you o to pick up your screwdriver to open another tin. Which results in paint on the screwdriver. Which never dries. So then you forget about the paint on the screwdriver and go to pick it up. Transferring wet paint to your hands. Which then gets transferred to the next tool you pick up.. and so on.
If opportunity doesn't knock, build a door.