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Mike's ext'n & renovation (sunroom stone floor & plinth)

This is where we don't want anything but evidence of your finest wood butchering in all its glorious, and photograph laden glory. Bring your finished products or WIP's, we love them all, so long as there's pictures, and plenty of 'em!

Re: Mike's extension & renovation (render carrier boarding 1

Postby Mike G » 14 Sep 2017, 21:40

Just to prove to myself that I have actually made some progress, this is the front of the house a year ago today:

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And this is what I was doing 2 years ago this week:

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Re: Mike's extension & renovation (render carrier boarding 1

Postby StevieB » 15 Sep 2017, 09:11

Wow - I really wouldn't have estimated 2 years Mike. I would certainly be flagging by now! Take pride in how far you have come and how the quality has remained so high. :eusa-clap:

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Re: Mike's extension & renovation (render carrier boarding 1

Postby RogerS » 15 Sep 2017, 11:23

I know the feeling, Mike.

I've only been going at mine for six months and with some builder effort as well. Truth be...I think I'd rather have done much more myself and at my own pace and project plan. But LOML was adamant that we didn't take forever this time.

Photos taken from a while back provide my impetus to press on.
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Re: Mike's extension & renovation (render carrier boarding 1

Postby the bear » 15 Sep 2017, 11:25

2 years wow, I would have said that was a year ago. What do they say about time flying and having fun?

With ref to the window architrave, it may be that I've seen the plainer version before but never really thought about it as an architrave.

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Re: Mike's extension & renovation (render carrier boarding 1

Postby RogerS » 15 Sep 2017, 12:48

Mike, what are the single socket boxes for alongside the doubles ? Data ?
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Re: Mike's extension & renovation (render carrier boarding 1

Postby TrimTheKing » 15 Sep 2017, 12:58

RogerS wrote:Mike, what are the single socket boxes for alongside the doubles ? Data ?

I'm going for 5amp lamp circuits...
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Re: Mike's extension & renovation (render carrier boarding 1

Postby Mike G » 15 Sep 2017, 13:11

Yep, they're 5 amp sockets, so that we can switch lamps from wall switches.
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Re: Mike's extension & renovation (Porch-on-a-porch 3)

Postby riclepp » 15 Sep 2017, 14:10

Mike G wrote:Thanks Richard. Well, we don't really have neighbours......

BTW, we live about 3 miles apart. How is it we've never met?




Hi Mike

Everytime I go into or through Sudbury and out to Polstead (my workshop is that way) I keeping looking for your house and never see it..... If you ever need a labourer for the day, happy to oblige.

All I can say is I doff my hat to you Sir! The amount of work you have done is amazing.

Cheers

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Re: Mike's extension & renovation (render carrier boarding 2

Postby Mike G » 17 Sep 2017, 19:29

It's mainly been just more of the same for the last couple of days. Window surrounds, scaffolding, and Savolit boards:

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I can't get any higher up the gables than that with just a tower scaffold. I'm getting hold of some scaffolding in the next couple of days. The corners are unusual in that there isn't going to be a stop bead and a square corner, but a rounded corner. The plasterer hates it, because he's got nowhere to stop, but it looks great when it's done. Here's the board detail:

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I got sick and tired of the perspex over the porch, so cut up some spare glass I had and pinned it into the window openings:

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It's just temporary, to get us through the winter without getting the inside of the porch wet.
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Re: Mike's extension & renovation (render carrier boarding 2

Postby Malc2098 » 17 Sep 2017, 21:14

Proper job, as they say down 'ere!

BTW, I had that question mark in the box image problem again. Opened the picture in a new tab, go back to the post, reload the page and the images are all there again!
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Re: Mike's extension & renovation (render carrier boarding 2

Postby Rod » 18 Sep 2017, 08:33

Nice progress
How long does the plasterer reckon he'll take and is the render self colouring or will you have to paint it?

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Re: Mike's extension & renovation (render carrier boarding 2

Postby Mike G » 18 Sep 2017, 08:44

The plasterer says he can't price this. He's doing it on a day rate. I'm hoping it's a couple of days per coat for the front part of the house, with me helping.

The render is going on au naturale, and we'll be adding limewash next spring (in a dull green/ grey.......approx Farrow & Ball no.11)

https://www.designerpaintstore.com/designer-paint-range/farrow-ball-archive-colours/archive-colour-stone-white-no-11/

I quite like "Drab" and love the name!!

https://www.designerpaintstore.com/designer-paint-range/farrow-ball-archive-colours/archive-colour-drab-no-41/
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Re: Mike's extension & renovation (render carrier boarding 2

Postby Rod » 18 Sep 2017, 23:06

Nice
I saw this today and thought of your door

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Hinges

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Re: Mike's extension & renovation (render carrier boarding 2

Postby fiveeyes » 19 Sep 2017, 01:51

Temporary glass you say...will you replace with stained glass then? ;)

Outstanding work, and appreciated.
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Re: Mike's extension & renovation (render carrier boarding 2

Postby Mike G » 19 Sep 2017, 07:33

Rod wrote:.....I saw this today and thought of your door .......


Isn't that beautiful? I have a thing about doors. If I go into a cathedral to look around, I look up first, at the roof, and then I go around the periphery looking at the doors.

Interesting hinge positions. It looks like horizontal boards internally, then vertical, then the raised detail on the outside.
Last edited by Mike G on 19 Sep 2017, 07:37, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Mike's extension & renovation (render carrier boarding 2

Postby Mike G » 19 Sep 2017, 07:35

fiveeyes wrote:Temporary glass you say...will you replace with stained glass then? ;)


Leaded lights, but not stained. I'm going to buy a powerful soldering iron and do the leadwork myself. How hard can it be?
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Re: Mike's extension & renovation (render carrier boarding 2

Postby 9fingers » 19 Sep 2017, 07:49

Mike G wrote:
fiveeyes wrote:Temporary glass you say...will you replace with stained glass then? ;)


Leaded lights, but not stained. I'm going to buy a powerful soldering iron and do the leadwork myself. How hard can it be?


Not hard as such but unlike other soldering, the solder is a thin strip of lead with the same melting point as the lead you are soldering instead of being an eutectic mix with a reduced melting point.

It is a case of looking for visual clues as the heat is applied and stop before it turns into a puddle.
Bit like gas welding aluminium alloy if you have ever done that.

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Re: Mike's extension & renovation (render carrier boarding 2

Postby fiveeyes » 20 Sep 2017, 01:39

Mike..seeing what you have already done, methinks that you will get done!
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Re: Mike's extension & renovation (render carrier boarding 2

Postby Mike G » 20 Sep 2017, 07:09

fiveeyes wrote:Mike..seeing what you have already done, methinks that you will get done!


I may not have mentioned it before, but our youngest daughter is getting married next July, and the reception is going to be in a tent in our garden. I no longer have an open ended schedule. I MUST be finished (or some variation on the theme "finished") by then.
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Re: Mike's extension & renovation (render carrier boarding 2

Postby fiveeyes » 21 Sep 2017, 00:45

Somehow..I believe that you will be ready. Congrats to your daughter. Been there, done that...I have four daughters. :obscene-drinkingcheers:
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Re: Mike's extension & renovation (render carrier boarding 2

Postby wallace » 21 Sep 2017, 12:51

I've always fancied doing some stained glass work, nothing looks particularly hard when you watch it being done. I find a dead line is better for me, makes me more focused, not that you need it. Your work ethic is astounding. I've been doing a simple face frame kitchen for the last 4 months at a snails pace
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Re: Mike's extension & renovation (render carrier boarding 2

Postby billybuntus » 24 Sep 2017, 10:24

Mike G wrote:
fiveeyes wrote:Temporary glass you say...will you replace with stained glass then? ;)


Leaded lights, but not stained. I'm going to buy a powerful soldering iron and do the leadwork myself. How hard can it be?


Hi Mike,

House looks great. I don't often contribute but use your posts as inspiration to crack on with my own house.

I've worked with leaded lights for many years. I have a weller 101d soldering iron that I use which is spot on. You can buy all you need from pearsons or creative

https://www.pearsons-glass.co.uk/
http://www.creativeglassguild.co.uk

Pearsons are my personal choice and they deliver every two weeks by van if your buying a few hundred quids worth. You'll want 1/2 flat came for the edges and maybe 1/4 inch H sections for joints. You can buy its in rounded or flat depending on how you want it to look. Rounded looks a little more dressy but flat is traditional for much older properties.

Draw out your window on lining paper in pencil. Go over the drawing with a new sharpie as the nib is the ideal size to leave a gap which measures the same as the core of the H section.

Cut out your glass up to the black lines you've made. set your glass aside.

Make a board up by using chipboard and attached some timber strips on the bottom and left hand edge of the board (also useful as a cutting board for glass). Cut the bottom and left hand side of the drawing and pin it square to the board tight to the corner you've made. Remember the 1/2 flat on the edges when cutting the drawing.

Use horse shoes nails to pin the drawing.

Set you 1/2 flat out on the bottom and left hand side then start inserting your glass. Work tight to the lines and keep it pinned in using horse shoe nails.

Run your lead across the edges of the glass keeping it all tight and square to the drawing.

Cap off the edges with 1/2inch flat and keep it tight with horse shoe nails.

Scrub the lead came with a small wire brush then solder it up. I'd highly recommend traditional flux which comes in candle size sticks. Rub the flux over each joint. Get your iron up to temperature and get it all soldered up. Don't mess about rubbing the solder around just dab it on, get it flat and leave it.

Once soldered let it go off for 5 minutes then flip the panel and repeat the process.

Once done you've need to cement the panel. Dpon't be shy with the leaded light cement, smear it in all joints using a srcubbing brush. Put whiting on the panel (cures the cement) and rub it around the joints. Go easy with whiting just enough to make the cement a little solid. Scrub it into all the joints and vigorously go over the whole panel. The whiting cures the cement and also cleans up the glass and lead.

Flip the panel and repeat.

Leave it to go off over night then use a plastic fid tool to go over all edges and clean the cement back. Don't leave the panel more than overnight or the cement will go rock hard and be a pig to get off and clean up.

once you've removed the thick of it scrub the panel with a brush then repeat with the fid until you're happy its clean.

To finish off and make it shine use black grate polish across the came and polish alot to bring up a nice shine, it will dull over time.

Cleanliness in the final cleaning stage is important, keep the dust down and get it as clean as you can.

Give me a short if you need any help. For those size windows I wouldn't both with any rebar across the panels, they'll need replacing before they sag in 50-100 years.

Keep up the good work!
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Re: Mike's extension & renovation (render carrier boarding 2

Postby Mike G » 24 Sep 2017, 13:29

That's fantastic, bb. Many thanks. I have sat and watched a couple of Youtube clips showing precisely what you described, but having a written reference is going to be very handy.

Couple of things. Does the edge came butt up to, or overlap, the "H" section stuff? I imagine the former. Secondly, and more importantly, I am going to have some quite chunky stops behind the panels, and beads on the outside, including a drip on the bottom one, making it also quite chunky. This rather complicates the question of what the size of the glazed panel should be. Would you expect to see any of the "U" shaped edging came after the pane is fixed in place, or is it buried? OK, I know that it would normally be putty, but it can't be for me.
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Re: Mike's extension & renovation (render carrier boarding 3

Postby Mike G » 24 Sep 2017, 20:47

For fun, let's start at the end (latest) and work backwards. I've just been plodding on with the render carrier boarding:

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I don't even have planning permission for a conservatory, nor any sort of drawing, but we want one, and so I had to make allowances for it. I fixed a whole lot of 6x1 to the house so that I've got something firm to make the connections to if and when it happens:

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Then window surrounds and battens:

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As a record of where the conservatory 6x1s are, I took these:

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Image

That half gable in the second picture took an awful lot of work, because there is a lead flashing and a drip bead detail, and with rounded corners and small clearance under the window I spent an hour or three lying down on my home-made scaffold platform. You can see now why I haven't slated that roof yet!

The plasterer dropped by to check on progress, and told me he can't come until next Monday. So I have a comfortable week to be fully ready for him, with scaffolding up.
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Re: Mike's extension & renovation (render carrier boarding 2

Postby billybuntus » 24 Sep 2017, 21:23

Mike G wrote:That's fantastic, bb. Many thanks. I have sat and watched a couple of Youtube clips showing precisely what you described, but having a written reference is going to be very handy.

Couple of things. Does the edge came butt up to, or overlap, the "H" section stuff? I imagine the former. Secondly, and more importantly, I am going to have some quite chunky stops behind the panels, and beads on the outside, including a drip on the bottom one, making it also quite chunky. This rather complicates the question of what the size of the glazed panel should be. Would you expect to see any of the "U" shaped edging came after the pane is fixed in place, or is it buried? OK, I know that it would normally be putty, but it can't be for me.


Hi Mike,

It butts up to it.

Just trial fit a bead take the measurement. Ideally you want 6mm of the 12mm (1/2) flat came sandwiched between the beads.

You can make a panel to fit the size of your beads then use off cuts of lead came to pack it up at the bottom and get it level.

Beads always look much neater, apply silcone in the gap between the void in the bead and frame/lead,
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