It is currently 29 Mar 2024, 16:56
Andyp wrote:They look a bit thin for vertical ones.
Andyp wrote:ABW = american black walnut Do keep up
9fingers wrote:Somebody once commented on the only wedged tenons that I'd ever done to the effect that the wedges should be at right angles to the grain of the mortice to avoid any tendency to split the grain.
Bob
Malc2098 wrote:Thanks, Gents.
I could manage an 8mm wedge downwards, but the wedge will be running with the grain of the leg. I'll have a closer look and try some tests on scrap.
Woodbloke wrote:Andyp wrote:They look a bit thin for vertical ones.
Dunno Andy, vertical ones are preferred as there's a longer wedging effect. I reckon from looking at the pics, that Malc could get away with a 10mm wedge or if that's too thick, an 8mm one - Rob
RogerS wrote:Hw did that planing tip go, Malc ?
Woodbloke wrote:9fingers wrote:Somebody once commented on the only wedged tenons that I'd ever done to the effect that the wedges should be at right angles to the grain of the mortice to avoid any tendency to split the grain.
Bob
Correct Bob, but technically these are 'tusk' tenons which is a very different kettle of worms
Malc2098 wrote:Wow! Ideas running around in my head like kids at a party!
I get the theory of a vertical wedge while in use and with movement, shrinkage etc, as the wedge loosens it can fall down in the evolving gap, but I also like the idea of lateral folding wedges, too.
Any takers on square pegs for the feet and top rail M&Ts instead of round pegs?
Woodbloke wrote:Tusk tenons look good; aim to get them equidistant each side of the mortice when they're tapped home...just needs careful planing, a shaving at a time, then tap and test. Or chop off a bit from one end - Rob
Malc2098 wrote:Four tusk tenons, their mortices and wedges done!
What do you reckon - round off the top and bottom outer corners of the wedges?
What about the tenons? Should I reduce their length and round their top and bottom corners?
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