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Re: Malcolm's Workbench (Wedged Tusk Tenons)

PostPosted: 11 Apr 2019, 15:07
by Malc2098
Thanks, Mark.

Flowing!

Re: Malcolm's Workbench (Wedged Tusk Tenons)

PostPosted: 11 Apr 2019, 15:28
by Woodbloke
TrimTheKing wrote:Find the cheapest dogs you want to buy and make the holes that size, or make your own and make the holes that size? It really doesn't matter what size they are so long as they fit the dogs you have. Worst case is you make them too small, then you can always make them bigger using a router with a template and bearing guided cutter.

Don't over think it, just go with the flow... :D


The cheapest and the best by a mile were the ones I saw at Peter Sefton's gaff some years ago. He makes these by the bucket load for the benches in his school. Simply find a piece of doweling say, 19 or 20mm and then drill the said required number of 'oles in the bench top, so that the dowel is a close fit...also chisel off a 'flat' at one end for the wood to bear against. Make the dowel long enough so it pokes out under the bench. Then, and this is the cunning bit, fit one of these bad badgers about 40mm or so (not crucial) from the end wot pokes up above the bench. Voila, you now have a bench dog that will stay where you put it and that won't mangle your LN smoother,(should it run into it :eusa-doh:) for the princely sum of a 100mm length of dowel and an adjustable ball catch - Rob

Re: Malcolm's Workbench (Wedged Tusk Tenons)

PostPosted: 11 Apr 2019, 16:55
by Malc2098
Thanks, rob, I might just do that.

LN smoother?!! I should coco! Mines a 1975 Record No 5, one owner from new, low mileage. :D

Re: Malcolm's Workbench (Wedged Tusk Tenons)

PostPosted: 11 Apr 2019, 20:37
by Andyp
Malc2098 wrote:
Andyp wrote:FWIW Malc I have not for one minute regretted drilling holes, round, in bench top and using hold downs and veritas dogs.


I am minded to got the dog hole route, Andy.

What diameter are yours?


19mm and this was how I made sure that they were al equidistant

Image

Re: Malcolm's Workbench (Wedged Tusk Tenons)

PostPosted: 11 Apr 2019, 20:52
by Malc2098
Simple and elegant.

Re: Malcolm's Workbench (The top)

PostPosted: 12 Apr 2019, 14:15
by Malc2098
Time to laminate the top.

As much curl, bow and twist taken out as I could before gluing and planed up after gluing.

The small piece in the middle will be cut in half on the angle to make the sloped wings of the tool well.

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Re: Malcolm's Workbench (The top)

PostPosted: 12 Apr 2019, 16:34
by Malc2098
Like this.

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Re: Malcolm's Workbench (The top)

PostPosted: 12 Apr 2019, 16:46
by Woodbloke
I would put your tool well right at the back and move that piece(s) currently at the rear into the main section of the bench; gives you a wider working surface. Just use a bit of half inch stuff at the rear, nothing fancy needed - Rob

Re: Malcolm's Workbench (The top)

PostPosted: 12 Apr 2019, 17:14
by Malc2098
Woodbloke wrote:I would put your tool well right at the back and move that piece(s) currently at the rear into the main section of the bench; gives you a wider working surface. Just use a bit of half inch stuff at the rear, nothing fancy needed - Rob


I would, Rob, but the top will only be supported on the two top rails of the frame, so I have included a thicker rear to maintain structural integrity of the top through its plane. ( I think!)

Re: Malcolm's Workbench (The top)

PostPosted: 12 Apr 2019, 21:20
by Woodbloke
Malc2098 wrote:
Woodbloke wrote:I would put your tool well right at the back and move that piece(s) currently at the rear into the main section of the bench; gives you a wider working surface. Just use a bit of half inch stuff at the rear, nothing fancy needed - Rob


I would, Rob, but the top will only be supported on the two top rails of the frame, so I have included a thicker rear to maintain structural integrity of the top through its plane. ( I think!)

That'll be fine if the top is supported on those two top cross rails on the frame. I'd still move those back pieces to the front to give you a wider working surface as the tool well won't take any load. If you have a look at my tool well on the previous page, it's supported at the rear by a bit of beech about 15mm thick and the frame construction is pretty similar to yours - Rob

Re: Malcolm's Workbench (The top)

PostPosted: 13 Apr 2019, 09:43
by Malc2098
I'll swop those over and find some straight lengths.

I have to add a little width there, because I lost a bit in the milling and rejecting of twisted stock, so I have to get back up to the width of the top cross rails.

Re: Malcolm's Workbench (The top)

PostPosted: 16 Apr 2019, 13:35
by Malc2098
Getting there slowly. The top is now wider and has a thick back. I've left one end uncut so I can stand it on end when I'm not working on it.

Setting out to see what size of apron seems right and where my old Record 52E will go. (I bought that in about 1975!) A picture of Rory's bench is on the top to give me design inspiration!
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Re: Malcolm's Workbench (The top)

PostPosted: 16 Apr 2019, 21:13
by MY63
looking good so far. Either the bench is quite small or that is a huge vice. :lol:

Re: Malcolm's Workbench (The top)

PostPosted: 16 Apr 2019, 21:23
by Malc2098
MY63 wrote:looking good so far. Either the bench is quite small or that is a huge vice. :lol:


Thanks, Michael. Yes, and 7 inches!

Re: Malcolm's Workbench (The top)

PostPosted: 16 Apr 2019, 21:24
by RogerS
Mmmm.... :eusa-think: ..bit late now but I can't help thinking that those legs are too thin. Most benches I've seen have legs that are more square in profile.

Re: Malcolm's Workbench (The top)

PostPosted: 16 Apr 2019, 22:28
by Malc2098
RogerS wrote:Mmmm.... :eusa-think: ..bit late now but I can't help thinking that those legs are too thin. Most benches I've seen have legs that are more square in profile.



Yeah, a bit like mine!

Re: Malcolm's Workbench (The top)

PostPosted: 16 Apr 2019, 22:28
by Woodbloke
Malc2098 wrote:Getting there slowly... to see what size of apron seems right


Personally, I would really think twice about that deep apron at the front. They are a real pain :evil: as you'll soon find out when you try and cramp stuff to the top (which I do a regular basis) - Rob

Re: Malcolm's Workbench (The top)

PostPosted: 16 Apr 2019, 22:29
by Malc2098
I have jumped up and down on the stretchers and I jumped on the top today and nothing creaked.....well not on the bench, anyway.

Re: Malcolm's Workbench (The top)

PostPosted: 17 Apr 2019, 04:35
by RogerS
Malc2098 wrote:I have jumped up and down on the stretchers and I jumped on the top today and nothing creaked.....well not on the bench, anyway.


It's not the up and down movement that's the issue but the sideways racking when you're sawing or chiselling etc.

Re: Malcolm's Workbench (The top)

PostPosted: 17 Apr 2019, 10:11
by Malc2098
RogerS wrote:
Malc2098 wrote:I have jumped up and down on the stretchers and I jumped on the top today and nothing creaked.....well not on the bench, anyway.


It's not the up and down movement that's the issue but the sideways racking when you're sawing or chiselling etc.


There will be a plywood sheet screwed to the two back legs to prevent the sideways wracking.

That will wait until I have received the ABW dowels from Cheshire via Hampshire to draw bore the legs into the feet and rails.

Re: Malcolm's Workbench (The top)

PostPosted: 17 Apr 2019, 11:22
by RogerS
Malc2098 wrote:
RogerS wrote:
Malc2098 wrote:I have jumped up and down on the stretchers and I jumped on the top today and nothing creaked.....well not on the bench, anyway.


It's not the up and down movement that's the issue but the sideways racking when you're sawing or chiselling etc.


There will be a plywood sheet screwed to the two back legs to prevent the sideways wracking.
...


That'll help :eusa-dance:

But still think they are too thin. It can still rotate, as it were.

Re: Malcolm's Workbench (The top)

PostPosted: 17 Apr 2019, 21:47
by Malc2098
Thanks, Roger, I'm optimistic.

For some of you, this might be second nature, but for me this is the first time I've taken on a project like this. Having Milled the various components of the bench top, I've now got to fit them all together.

I have noted your advice, Rob, about the apron and will reduce its height by half.

First I've got to fit the components of the vice. Don't yer just love blue masking tape. I got this tip off YT. Cover the area in tape and use your sharp marking tools to indent the work as usual, but also tear off the tape where the waste will be. With my eyesight, I needed that.
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I cheated with the spacer. I cut that lot out with the router in the table.
On to the cutout in the table.

That magnetic dovetail guide came in handy.
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Finally with a trusty Marples, I chopped out the cutout, having learned tips from YT, e.g. like standing in line with the chisel when cutting to the mark so you can see that you are perfectly upright. I never learnt that at school.
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It fits....a treat! I've never had something fit that well before. Feeling quite chuffed.
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Re: Malcolm's Workbench (The top)

PostPosted: 18 Apr 2019, 15:02
by Woodbloke
Nice fit on the vice body Malc. When you fit the closing cheek to the other half of the vice, plane it so it grips dead parallel from side to side, but that it also closes at the top slightly before the bottom ie, the closing cheek is very slightly wedge shaped in section, with the thicker bit at bench top height
Edit - check the grip by holding a piece of printer paper, there should be equal grippage each side - Rob

Re: Malcolm's Workbench (The top)

PostPosted: 18 Apr 2019, 16:23
by TrimTheKing
Excellent mate, top work that!

Re: Malcolm's Workbench (The top)

PostPosted: 18 Apr 2019, 17:26
by Malc2098
Thanks, Gents.

That's helpful, Rob. I found some fitting instructions online for the 52E and they said something similar.

Well, with this amount of bolts and screws, I don't think it will work loose!

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