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Bog oak coffee table ( Finished)

This is where we don't want anything but evidence of your finest wood butchering in all its glorious, and photograph laden glory. Bring your finished products or WIP's, we love them all, so long as there's pictures, and plenty of 'em!

Re: Bog oak coffee table ( Episode3)

Postby Mike G » 15 Nov 2019, 08:08

I've realised I haven't included a drawing, so you guys have no idea what I am actually up to. Apologies.

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Re: Bog oak coffee table ( Episode3)

Postby Rod » 15 Nov 2019, 17:07

I maybe misreading but what’s supporting the drawers?

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Re: Bog oak coffee table ( Episode3)

Postby Mike G » 15 Nov 2019, 17:19

There's a frame at the front, and behind it runners back to the back apron.
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Re: Bog oak coffee table ( Episode3)

Postby fiveeyes » 15 Nov 2019, 21:16

Mike..I have used epoxy..same as what you are calling resin, I assume...clear will take on the color of where it will live. Hope that makes sense. Also, using a propane torch, gingerly of course; will remove bubbles. A bit of proper research would be in order. :text-coolphotos:
Looking forward to the finish.

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Re: Bog oak coffee table ( Episode3)

Postby Mike G » 15 Nov 2019, 21:41

I'm hoping my epoxy turns up tomorrow, so that I can experiment. I'll be trying clear, black, and brass filings.

My wife just rang me up (she's away with a sick relative) and asked me if I'd finished the table yet!! She should know by now, after all these years.....
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Re: Bog oak coffee table ( Episode 4 joinery)

Postby Mike G » 18 Nov 2019, 16:45

I did say this was going to be slow....

Previously, I'd chopped out the mortices for the apron on the back and two sides, so next, it was time to do the tenons. Mark, knife, chisel, saw:

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You'll note a router plane in the last photos which you've not seen before. It's half built, but works a treat. I'll post on that separately in due course. Anyway, on with the joints:

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I haven't a photo, but you'll have worked out that the tenons are staggered so that adjoining sides can have full depth over-lapping joints. I want really strong racking resistance.

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Now, we swap to a DSLR camera, so the photos improve, but I've forgotten how to turn the flash off and some of the colours will therefore look a little different.

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None of the timber has been properly planed at this point. I want to do the joinery first, so the vertical mark you can see on the apron is just where I must have slowed down on the planer. It won't be there in the finished article.

This is a view of the end of the rear apron. Remember I said previously that the inside would only be partially planed as there wasn't enough thickness to thickness the whole board properly? Well, this is the consequence. There is nowhere to reference the router plane to sort out the inside face of the tenon, and thus the work that side is all with a chisel:

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In the end, it all went together nicely:

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They're really tight joints, and that feels really sturdy.

If you notice, I have the aprons arranged with black at the top graduating to brown at the bottom. The drawer fronts will also follow this. So, the drawer surround frame should also sensibly follow this pattern too. Problem was, I could see a board anywhere in the accessible part of my stack which would let me get a piece of 25 x 50 brown stuff from it. I wasted 2 hours looking. In the end, I stumbled across this pretty grotty looking piece, and could just about see a way of getting what I wanted from it:

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It's really important to understand that the drawer-surround framing is a vital part of the structure, taking the place of an apron but trying to provide the same strength and racking resistance. So, more joinery. Here is a pile of the three vertical elements set up for me to cut double tenons:

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......and now the commensurate mortices:

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The tenons on the end of that piece were made without reference to the leg they were designed to attach to, and they weren't quite as well thought through as they should have been.

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As you can see here, the drawer surround projects inside the inner face of the leg, so the second tenon has only a housing rather than a mortice into which it fits:

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It all goes together rather nicely, and even dry fitted it feels plenty strong enough:

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I've a design question for you now. I am thinking of having a staff bead around the bottom edge of the apron (and the drawer frame). What do you think?
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Re: Bog oak coffee table ( Episode 4 joinery)

Postby Malc2098 » 18 Nov 2019, 19:14

Staff Bead? Yes. I do like anything that softens the square look of a piece.
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Re: Bog oak coffee table ( Episode 4 joinery)

Postby Mike G » 18 Nov 2019, 19:37

Good, that's what I think too.

Here's another design question. Do I show dovetails on the front of the drawers?

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Or, do I do traditional drawer front dovetails?

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Re: Bog oak coffee table ( Episode 4 joinery)

Postby Andyp » 18 Nov 2019, 19:39

Malc2098 wrote:Staff Bead? Yes. I do like anything that softens the square look of a piece.


agreed. have you done a test yet?
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Re: Bog oak coffee table ( Episode 4 joinery)

Postby Andyp » 18 Nov 2019, 19:41

[quote="Mike G"]
Or, do I do traditional drawer front dovetails?

Traditional for me. Showing on the front will be two much contrast with the legs and front. IMHO
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Re: Bog oak coffee table ( Episode 4 joinery)

Postby Andyp » 18 Nov 2019, 19:43

Blind mitre dovetails would look cool too :)
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Re: Bog oak coffee table ( Episode 4 joinery)

Postby 9fingers » 18 Nov 2019, 19:47

Yes to the beading. Here is one I made earlier.

5BE044E0-4798-45C1-B138-395AFF581718.jpeg
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Re: Bog oak coffee table ( Episode 4 joinery)

Postby Mike G » 18 Nov 2019, 19:49

Andyp wrote:
Malc2098 wrote:Staff Bead? Yes. I do like anything that softens the square look of a piece.


agreed. have you done a test yet?


Not yet. I've rather enjoyed the peace and quiet of just using hand tools, and the thought of a screaming router doesn't appeal at the minute. I'll perhaps have a look at that tomorrow, if I get a few minutes out in the workshop.
Last edited by Mike G on 18 Nov 2019, 19:51, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Bog oak coffee table ( Episode 4 joinery)

Postby Mike G » 18 Nov 2019, 19:51

I've pretty much made my mind up to do the beading, as I had when I asked the question. It's just that educated votes such as you guys provide help sway the conversation in the next design team meeting.
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Re: Bog oak coffee table ( Episode 4 joinery)

Postby Mike G » 18 Nov 2019, 19:52

Andyp wrote:Blind mitre dovetails would look cool too :)


:lol: Thanks Andy!
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Re: Bog oak coffee table ( Episode 4 joinery)

Postby Malc2098 » 18 Nov 2019, 20:17

Blind mitred dovetails wouldn't look like dovetails. Traditional lapped dovetails is the way to go!
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Re: Bog oak coffee table ( Episode 4 joinery)

Postby TrimTheKing » 19 Nov 2019, 00:10

Staff bead yes, traditional dovetails please, I agree with Andy that it would be too busy and at odds with the design to show them on the front.
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Re: Bog oak coffee table ( Episode 4 joinery)

Postby Jonathan » 19 Nov 2019, 06:49

Traditional draw fronts would be my choice

As to beading.... I think cock bead is to fussy for the design and the wood.....I would use stoped chamfers!

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Re: Bog oak coffee table ( Episode 4 joinery)

Postby Mike G » 19 Nov 2019, 08:46

It's a decision........there will be an edge bead, and there will be half-blind dovetails for the drawers. There is enough going on with the drawer fronts without adding an extra detail (through dovetails), because in addition to the lovely timber, there with be a sort-of Greene & Greene-ish wooden drawer-pull.
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Re: Bog oak coffee table ( Episode 4 joinery)

Postby Andyp » 19 Nov 2019, 10:18

Mike G wrote:
Andyp wrote:
Malc2098 wrote:Staff Bead? Yes. I do like anything that softens the square look of a piece.


agreed. have you done a test yet?


Not yet. I've rather enjoyed the peace and quiet of just using hand tools, and the thought of a screaming router doesn't appeal at the minute. I'll perhaps have a look at that tomorrow, if I get a few minutes out in the workshop.


Don't you have a #405 Mulitplane?

I know it takes longer to set up then do the job but the satisfaction factor wins out, and it keeps the peace.
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Re: Bog oak coffee table ( Episode 4 joinery)

Postby Mike G » 19 Nov 2019, 10:50

I've a Stanley #50 combination plane, with all the beading cutters. It does produce the odd cock-up, though, particularly in more awkward grain, and I can't afford that here.
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Re: Bog oak coffee table ( Episode 4 joinery)

Postby Jimmy Mack » 20 Nov 2019, 21:56

Looking good, the blind tails are a good choice, look nicely cut too

And... Doesn't that Bog Oak looks gorgeous

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Re: Bog oak coffee table ( Episode 5 drawers etc)

Postby Mike G » 24 Nov 2019, 19:34

I've not had a lot of time in the workshop recently. Anyway, I planed and thicknessed the table tops at a friend's workshop, where he has a huge P/T. Back home, I cut the tops to length using a cross-cut saw, but knowing how vulnerable this wood is to breakout, I pre-scored the underside with a knife:

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I spend rather a lot of time cleaning up the cracks with a chisel, and then used a card scraper to clean up the marks left by the planer:

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Not being brave enough to start with epoxy etc, I decided to detour onto the drawers, which are going to be of oak (possibly with a sycamore base....we'll see). I needed to re-saw some 25mm stuff to make the sides, so I set up my re-saw fence:

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.....and ripped the stock up the middle:

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I then fitted the drawer fronts tightly into the holes in the frame:

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They're much blacker than that in real life. I think the flash is playing tricks with us.

After planing the drawer sides to the same height as the drawer fronts, I marked out the tails and cut them out:

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I seem to have failed to take a photo of the completed tail boards. Ho hum.... Thence to the pin boards (drawer fronts). It's an absolute pain not being able to see any marks on this dark wood, so I used tape:

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I've got an old plastic handled knife from a kids cutlery set, cut off square at the end, which I use for driving down into the saw kerf in half-blind dovetails:

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Then it's just more careful chiseling:

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And a reasonable first joint:

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I then diverted again, and mocked up a drawer-pull idea:

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My wife's reaction was "it's a bit clompy", and she's right. I'll play with a scaled down version and see if it looks a bit better in a more refined size. If anyone has any wooden handle suggestions, please feel free to drop a photo or link in here.
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Re: Bog oak coffee table ( Episode 5 drawers etc)

Postby Andyp » 25 Nov 2019, 10:41

Handles,
How laminating a nice curve in that light oak or sycamore? Use some of the bog oak to make plugs to cover the screw holes?

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Re: Bog oak coffee table ( Episode 5 drawers etc)

Postby Malc2098 » 25 Nov 2019, 12:01

Andyp wrote:Handles,
How laminating a nice curve in that light oak or sycamore? Use some of the bog oak to make plugs to cover the screw holes?

DSCN4725.jpg



Nice and elegant. I think that could be a basis for a design fro Mike.
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