I thought I'd have a go at something a little trickier.
This one is curved like one of the previous ones, but it is also tapered. This means the curves and the ends are cut with the BS table tilted a few degrees; 4.6 to be precise, or imprecise, because the quality of the trunnion on the SIP BS is probably not as good as many others on the market, and 4.6 was the closest I could get to 5.
Anyway, here's the first pair of curved cuts followed by the lid cut off the top. I used the same technique to cut the curve using an adaption to my circle cutting jig. The problem I came across was that I had to cut the lid off with the table at 90 degrees, so that meant changing it and then changing again to cut the ends on a taper.
I used the masking tape and superglue tip to secure the work to the circle cutting jig adaptation.
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Next I cut the sides to the parallel curve using the jig again and then cut off the ends while the table was still tilted.
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Next, I had to cut the bottom from the lower side of there remaining plug and the lid insert from the top side of the plug. Now as the plug was both curved and tilted on the reference edge relative to the BS blade, I rested the plug in the curved offcuts which still had a face square to the blade. I did the lid insert first.
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Then I cut the bottom.
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And these are all the component parts of the box, including the plug which after use could be used to make a smaller box in the same style. But the plug is the former used in order to glue the components together. So using parcel tape to stop gluing the ends and sides to the plug and the curved offcuts, I clamped everything together, eventually, sides and ends first, then the lid insert, using the glued carcass to facilitate exact placement on to the inside of the lid.
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I then used the plug to aid pushing the bottom to ...the bottom.
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And there it is, finished apart from sanding and finishing/painting.
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And with the plug.
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As you can see from the photos, the glue lines are clearly visible on the ends of the box. I used the tulip wood because one of Coley dog ends was a newel post cut off, which is just the right size for this type of box. It is also an interesting wood to look and the grain carries on through the box with hardly any zig-zagging due to the tapering. But it is quite soft and I've dented it a few times just putting it on the bench, dents too deep to sand out. I shall put felt on the bottom, paint one side of the lid and one side of the box with chalk paint to colour code which way the lid goes on, but also to make it more interesting to look at.
I have used Michael's (MY63) tip of cutting a cornflakes packet cardboard insert for the inside and will stick some suede to that tomorrow like I did with the tooth fairy box. That tip works really well, Michael.
The other reason I used the tulip wood was to practice the tapered technique so that I can make one out of a beautiful piece of figured oak in Coley's dog ends! If it comes out well, I'll post a photo. If not, well.......