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Linen Chest

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Linen Chest

Postby Woodbloke » 11 May 2020, 15:57

Another one done, this time for SWIMBO. This seems to have been on the go for ages as it's been interrupted by a brown oak fossil cabinet for my daughter 'oop narth' (yet to be delivered), a walnut bowl and box for SWIMBO's pal Janet and a trip to Japan before Christmas. However, 'tis finally done now:

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Material is quarter saw Euro Oak, with ten panels. The inside recess of each panel has been filled with a bit of 3mm ply to form a smooth interior. The lid has a laminated pine core with 3mm thick bandsawn veneers over the top and bottom. Accent details are in Bog Oak and these are the feet, end lippings on the lid and the cylindrical handle.

To allow more space inside but also to give the appearance of a chunky leg, the corners are mitred with a 6mm thick ply insert, no doms or biscuits:

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...which was easier than it sounds but I didn't glue up the chest accurately enough so the front two are spot on but there's a bit of 'leeway' :D on the rear ones. However, the exterior looks fine so happy bunny :D

The hinges have been set so the knuckle is offset; this allows ample clearance for the lid. It makes fitting the hinges more tricky as they're set tapered, but it does allow the lid to swing clear of the chest without binding...and it closes dead square! It stays put just beyond the vertical and I've used some silicon 'bumper buttons' on the back to regulate the clearance.

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The feet and other accent details....

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...are in Bog Oak, which is great to use but fiendishly hard :shock:

I used the same sort of jig to support the lid for this chest as I did for the Alan Peters one in Olive Ash I made last year:

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It's well nigh impossible to accurately line up the very heavy lid precisely in place to position the hinge leaves but with the screw adjustment it becomes child's play. Finished with a couple of coats of Satin OsmoPolyX and a burnish with 0000 grade wire wool dipped in wax polish - Rob
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Re: Linen Chest

Postby chataigner » 11 May 2020, 16:31

Nice. Interesting idea to mitre the corners to avoid the inside part of a real leg. Will be interesting to see how they hold up over the years. On a similar project I used a solid leg and added a thin ply panel on the inside to provide a "clean" interior. A lot of work and quite a bit of wasted volume.
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Re: Linen Chest

Postby Woodbloke » 11 May 2020, 16:43

chataigner wrote:Nice. Interesting idea to mitre the corners to avoid the inside part of a real leg.

Each mitred corner has a long bit of 6mm ply to reinforce it running almost the complete length of the joint so it's going to be very strong. I sincerely doubt that it's going to 'give' :D - Rob
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Re: Linen Chest

Postby Malc2098 » 11 May 2020, 16:56

Nice.
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Re: Linen Chest

Postby Phil » 11 May 2020, 18:15

Very nice indeed. 8-)
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Re: Linen Chest

Postby droogs » 11 May 2020, 20:43

lurvlie
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Re: Linen Chest

Postby Andyp » 12 May 2020, 07:17

Love th bog oak detail and the QS oak figuring. How are those bog oak lippings on the top attached?
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Re: Linen Chest

Postby Woodbloke » 12 May 2020, 08:44

Andyp wrote:Love th bog oak detail and the QS oak figuring. How are those bog oak lippings on the top attached?


Thanks Andy; attached with five decent sized biscuits each end. Semi circular shaping done by hand as well - Rob
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Re: Linen Chest

Postby 9fingers » 12 May 2020, 10:36

I can't get my head round that hinge detail and what effect it has. Gonna have to draw it on the 'puter and see it in action for myself.

Where does the hinge pin sit with respect to the vertical panel?
Is the pin centre in the same vertical plane as the back surface and one knuckle radius below the top edge of the back or summat else?

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Re: Linen Chest

Postby TrimTheKing » 12 May 2020, 16:09

9fingers wrote:I can't get my head round that hinge detail and what effect it has. Gonna have to draw it on the 'puter and see it in action for myself.

Where does the hinge pin sit with respect to the vertical panel?
Is the pin centre in the same vertical plane as the back surface and one knuckle radius below the top edge of the back or summat else?

Bob


Yep I'm with you, and also, the lid sits on the top, how/why/where would it ever bind...?

Using it as a stay I can understand, but I can't see where or how it could possibly bind on anything...
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Re: Linen Chest

Postby 9fingers » 12 May 2020, 16:56

I've been doing a bit of drawing of a typical hinge.

Firstly the way Rob has it installed.

Green is with the lid closed, and black with blue hinge leaf is with it open.

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Simple turning the hinge to make the installation more conventional and straight forward

Same colour code

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The clearance difference of 0.01 is simply due to drawing resolution set

So in practice no clearance difference between the two methods.

But Robs method does force the use of hand tools so perhaps that is why he likes it :lol: :lol:

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Re: Linen Chest

Postby Woodbloke » 12 May 2020, 23:23

Chaps, you're looking in entirely the wrong place. If you want chapter and verse on this sort of stuff, simply look as I did in Joyces's 'The Technique of Furniture Making'. In my first edition, the salient information and diagrams appear on page 344 and 345. Follow Joyce's instructions and it's easy peasy...."of the total thickness of the hinge cut into either the door or the carcase (262:10), for it is the position of the knuckle which governs the throw of the hinge"

It works first time and I've now built two linen chests using exactly the same hinging configuration :D I even built a mock up in pine to try it out and that worked first time as well.

Edit - Bob, it's bloody difficult to set the hinges in with a router say, as they're set in tapered so you have to resort to Neanderthal methods :D - Rob
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Re: Linen Chest

Postby TrimTheKing » 13 May 2020, 09:20

That may be so Rob, but still, where can the lid bind? It sits flat on top and the hinge will always lift it up and back so I can’t see how/where it can bind.
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Re: Linen Chest

Postby Woodbloke » 13 May 2020, 10:24

TrimTheKing wrote:That may be so Rob, but still, where can the lid bind? It sits flat on top and the hinge will always lift it up and back so I can’t see how/where it can bind.

One way it can bind is if the hinge isn't set in accurately enough so leaves can touch each other when it's closed. The other way is when screws are used that are too large and the cs heads stick up a fraction. No.8 screws are a fraction too big so I had to order No.7's which are a smidge smaller. There's also a burr on around the cs holes which needs to be removed with a smooth file and grades of w/d paper - Rob
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Re: Linen Chest

Postby Malc2098 » 13 May 2020, 11:40

Figures 10 and 16?

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Re: Linen Chest

Postby 9fingers » 13 May 2020, 11:51

Yes that is what Rob has done but as my drawings try to show, it makes no difference to fit the hinges at an angle.
It is solely the position of the pivot point with respect to the timber that makes the difference which is what my head told me in the first place but had to draw it to prove there was no further subtlety in the angled mounting that was used.

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Re: Linen Chest

Postby 9fingers » 13 May 2020, 12:05

Rob, you and you book are spot on, the only thing that affect the throw of the hinge is postion of the centre line of the pivot pin, or in the case of mulitpivot kitchen type hinges the effective pivot locus
In both my diagrams this is in the same place and hence the clearance in unchanged.
The conclusion is that the clearance is provided by either deep seating the hinge in the body or perversly mounting at an angle as you have done and consequnetly making it much more difficult to do.

Totally agree about hinges and screws. When I rebuilt the house and added the extra floor, I fitted an obscene number of hinges for doors and cupboards etc and someone told me that the correct screws for 3"/75mm butts are no7s and I bought several boxes. I also used loose pin hinges - at the time unknown to me in 1982, but they have been brilliant during decorating. Obviously not for your work but for anyone doing domestic refurb they are ideal.

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Re: Linen Chest

Postby Woodbloke » 13 May 2020, 22:32

Malc2098 wrote:Figures 10 and 16?

It was diagram No.10 that I based my hinging on, where the main body of the hinge inc the knuckle was set into the top of the chest. All I in fact did was to lengthen the vertical bit in the diagram (the lid) to give the overhang at the rear, but making a mock up in pine to test was a lifesaver.

Although they're set in tapered, it's quite easy to get them spot on. Use a rule to check that the front corner(s) of the leaf are dead level with the wood and the same rule to check that the top of the knuckle just touches the rule when it's passed over the top - Rob
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Re: Linen Chest

Postby Pinch » 14 May 2020, 08:37

I have just the one word to write.... "Superb!" 8-)

Stunning craftsmanship as usual Rob. Beautiful work.

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