It is currently 29 Mar 2024, 06:49
9fingers wrote:How about sloping the top edge of the lower moulding to shed water more effectively and possibly overhang the lower edge to form a drip rail?
Bob
9fingers wrote:what is the plan for the top edge of the top moulding ans sealing the raw ply edge?
Maybe an 18 mm rebate on the top moulding to cover the ply. Or an applied sealing strip to cap it in some way ?
Bob
RogerS wrote:9fingers wrote:what is the plan for the top edge of the top moulding ans sealing the raw ply edge?
Maybe an 18 mm rebate on the top moulding to cover the ply. Or an applied sealing strip to cap it in some way ?
Bob
I think it's going to have to be a strip of wood ..epoxied ? Or just a liberal coating of resin maybe ?
9fingers wrote:RogerS wrote:9fingers wrote:what is the plan for the top edge of the top moulding ans sealing the raw ply edge?
Maybe an 18 mm rebate on the top moulding to cover the ply. Or an applied sealing strip to cap it in some way ?
Bob
I think it's going to have to be a strip of wood ..epoxied ? Or just a liberal coating of resin maybe ?
Maybe a suitable profile in the top surface of the moulding to allow a slathering of resin and matting over into the gutter such that it does not spoil the look of the outer edge. Or maybe another run of the profile you have on the roof edge sealed with resin.
Bob
RogerS wrote:9fingers wrote:what is the plan for the top edge of the top moulding ans sealing the raw ply edge?
Maybe an 18 mm rebate on the top moulding to cover the ply. Or an applied sealing strip to cap it in some way ?
Bob
I think it's going to have to be a strip of wood ..epoxied ? Or just a liberal coating of resin maybe ?
greeno wrote:RogerS wrote:9fingers wrote:what is the plan for the top edge of the top moulding ans sealing the raw ply edge?
Maybe an 18 mm rebate on the top moulding to cover the ply. Or an applied sealing strip to cap it in some way ?
Bob
I think it's going to have to be a strip of wood ..epoxied ? Or just a liberal coating of resin maybe ?
Why don't you just use a right angled plastic overlay like you're doing on thre other edge of the gutter?
Mike G wrote:I'd sit another moulding over the top of the two (the ply and the fancy moulding in your drawing & model).
The thing that worries me about this is fibreglassing the guttering into position permanently. That does seem like a major problem for someone down the line.
greeno wrote:That's one option, certainly. If I sit the moulding up a bit, as mentioned above, then that plastic could sit on top without the need for any fibreglass. Just a good dollop of silicon (accepting that silicon sealant never sticks well to guttering).
stixall is what you want. It sticks just about everything to everything.
https://www.toolstation.com/stixall-adh ... 0ml/p77137
9fingers wrote:Will most people even notice? -
1:500 is 20mm in 10m
Bob
9fingers wrote:EPDM is very good and reliable?
Bob
Robert wrote:.....
and if I understand your supports correctly why not make them say 25mm less in height and screw a rectangle on to the side to get the final depth and have the undersides on a horizontal line.
Robert wrote:Two other thoughts...
Given the long length of runs will it cope with the expansion and contraction from frosty to hot in the sun?
Robert wrote:and instead of lots of vertical pieces of board sit the gutter on top of a continuous or near continuous run of joist timber. Width to suit mounting your fascia and still with your batten underneath. Got to be easier to set out a run of timber than position lots of custom panels. better screw fixing options too.
RogerS wrote:
True but no difference surely from guttering on a house ?
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