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Sadolin Ultra vs Sadolin Classic vs Sikkens Cetol 7 Plus

Help with choosing the right coloured milkpaint to slather all over your new project.

Sadolin Ultra vs Sadolin Classic vs Sikkens Cetol 7 Plus

Postby RogerM » 01 Nov 2017, 20:30

A previous test http://www.thewoodhaven2.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=27&t=519&p=21991 set up in 2012 compared Osmo UV Oil and Sikkens Cetol Filter 7 Plus on Iroko, and it was not long before Sikkens showed its class. But would that be the same on other species of wood? And how would it compare with Sadolin? That's what this new test is set up to establish.

This time I've used separate test pieces for each timber and finish, and each piece of wood for each species comes from the same plank.

labelled test piece.JPG
(631.97 KiB)


Column 1 is Iroko
Column 2 is English Oak
Column 3 is Sapele
Column 4 is treated softwood

Row 1 (Top) is Sadolin Ultra (Walnut). One coat of Sadolin clear base coat with 2 coats of top coat
Row 2 is Sadolin Classic (Walnut) 2 coats
Row 3 is Sikkens Cetol Filter 7 Plus (Walnut). One coat of Cetol HLS (Light Oak), with 2 coats of Cetol Filter 7 Plus (Walnut)
Row 4 is Sikkens Cetol Filter 7 Plus (Pale Oak). One coat of Cetol HLS (Light Oak), with 2 coats of Cetol Filter 7 Plus (Light Oak )
Row 5 (Bottom) is bare wood with no finish.

All finishes were applied onto dry wood with a brush in accordance with manufacturers instructions. All edges have been rounded over.

It'll be interesting to see which brand comes out on top, and also whether the more pigmented Sikkens Walnut is more durable than the Pale Oak equivalent from the same manufacturer.

The whole artistic creation will be placed upright facing south in full sun, and as before, I'll update every 6 months, or when I remember, or when asked!
Last edited by RogerM on 01 Nov 2017, 20:45, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Sadolin Ultra vs Sadolin Classic vs Sikkens Cetol 7 Plus

Postby Mike G » 01 Nov 2017, 20:32

Blimey, that un-finished softwood is a bright white.

My FIL swears by Sadolin. I've always hated it, and this illustrates why, already. It looks like the wood has been dropped into used engine oil taken from a 50 year old tractor.

Sorry to be a pain, Roger, but could you please confirm the Sikkens product names & numbers, please, as Cetol Filter 7 isn't immediately obvious on their website:

http://www.sikkens-wood-coatings.co.uk/en/home.html
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Re: Sadolin Ultra vs Sadolin Classic vs Sikkens Cetol 7 Plus

Postby RogerS » 01 Nov 2017, 20:45

Excellent idea, Roger :eusa-clap:
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Re: Sadolin Ultra vs Sadolin Classic vs Sikkens Cetol 7 Plus

Postby Coley » 01 Nov 2017, 20:55

Looks very thorough ! Was the wood degreased before you applied the finish ?

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Re: Sadolin Ultra vs Sadolin Classic vs Sikkens Cetol 7 Plus

Postby RogerM » 02 Nov 2017, 00:08

No de-greasing. The wood was dry, and surfaces newly planed and sanded with 240 grit with a ROS. The instructions didn't specify degreasing, and in any event, I wanted to keep this "real world" and I don't think most people would necessarily de-grease an exterior project.
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Re: Sadolin Ultra vs Sadolin Classic vs Sikkens Cetol 7 Plus

Postby Rod » 02 Nov 2017, 00:17

I’ve used the same two Sikkens products on my house having found it lasted longer between re- treatments over the years.
My wooden frames are about 25 yrs old and have been finished with first Sadolin and then Sikkens.
On the south side Sadolin only lasted 2 yrs whereas Sikkens was about 4. Treatment consisted of a light sanding followed by the base coat where the paint had worn off followed by the top coat overall.
Over the years the grain effect has been lost with paint build-up and this year the coating has started to crack and flake off in places. It’s now reached the stage where it needs taking down to the bare wood and starting again.

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Re: Sadolin Ultra vs Sadolin Classic vs Sikkens Cetol 7 Plus

Postby Coley » 02 Nov 2017, 05:42

I think it might make a difference, certainly helps finishs to dry quicker and you can see the empty wood pores. Sadolins recommend degreasing with meths before applying the first coat.

The job I'm doing at the moment the builder arranged which finish they wanted. Sapele windows, painted finish. I always use aluminium primer but dulux stressed the importance of wiping down with white spirit before putting on the first coat - This is the first time I've never had to wipe down with something other than meths !!!! For the topcoat they recommended dulux opaque which I haven't came across before. Coverage is terrible but if it does what it says on the tin it'll be worth the extra coats.

It'll be interesting to see how your samples hold up.
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Re: Sadolin Ultra vs Sadolin Classic vs Sikkens Cetol 7 Plus

Postby RogerS » 02 Nov 2017, 05:54

For painting outside wood, I'm very impressed with linseed oil-based paints.
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Re: Sadolin Ultra vs Sadolin Classic vs Sikkens Cetol 7 Plus

Postby Coley » 02 Nov 2017, 06:10

RogerS wrote:For painting outside wood, I'm very impressed with linseed oil-based paints.
I've got a tin I need to try after Jacobs recommendation. Just need something to put it on. The builder said the client wanted little green paint but said it cost too much. Dulux is cheaper but will need 1-2 extra coats. 1-2 extra coats worth of paint as well as labour !!!

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Re: Sadolin Ultra vs Sadolin Classic vs Sikkens Cetol 7 Plus

Postby 9fingers » 09 Nov 2017, 11:03

Mike G wrote:
Sorry to be a pain, Roger, but could you please confirm the Sikkens product names & numbers, please, as Cetol Filter 7 isn't immediately obvious on their website:



Data sheet here Mike https://www.duluxtradepaintexpert.co.uk ... 7_plus.pdf

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Re: Sadolin Ultra vs Sadolin Classic vs Sikkens Cetol 7 Plus

Postby RogerM » 09 Nov 2017, 11:27

9fingers wrote:
Mike G wrote:
Sorry to be a pain, Roger, but could you please confirm the Sikkens product names & numbers, please, as Cetol Filter 7 isn't immediately obvious on their website:



Data sheet here Mike https://www.duluxtradepaintexpert.co.uk ... 7_plus.pdf

hth
Bob

No problem Mike. I used Sikkens Cetol Filter 7 Plus (Light Oak 006) and Sikkens Cetol Filter 7 Plus (Walnut 010). In each case I used Cetol HLS Plus (Light Oak 006) as a base coat. I didn't use the walnut base coat for the simple reason that I had light oak on the shelf, didn't have any walnut, and I wasn't going to spend £16 on a full can just for this test! It is also worth mentioning that all cans were about 18 months old, having been left over from when I painted the house last summer, so not fresh stock. Another "real world" ingredient perhaps, but again with the price of these finishes I wasn't going to buy new cans when I had some on the shelf. HTH.
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Re: Sadolin Ultra vs Sadolin Classic vs Sikkens Cetol 7 Plus

Postby RogerM » 08 Feb 2019, 21:31

Here is an update on the Sadolin or Sikkens test pieces.

DSC04854 reduced.jpg
(491.47 KiB)


DSC07563-2.jpg
(455.87 KiB)


After 15 months the only ones showing visible signs of degradation are the Iroko and English Oak with Sadolin classic (Walnut). The Sadolin Classic on the Sapele and Treated Softwood is fine, as are the other finishes. I wouldn't expect much degradation after just one summer. Let's see what another one does!
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Re: Sadolin Ultra vs Sadolin Classic vs Sikkens Cetol 7 Plus

Postby RogerS » 08 Feb 2019, 22:47

Interesting experiment. But ...be interesting to try it up here to see how they fare !
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Re: Sadolin Ultra vs Sadolin Classic vs Sikkens Cetol 7 Plus

Postby RogerM » 08 Feb 2019, 22:54

RogerS wrote:Interesting experiment. But ...be interesting to try it up here to see how they fare !
Sounds like something for you to do in your copious spare time Roger! Actually, the finish degrades fastest in summer so my guess is the finishes will last longer oop north. It's the UV wot does it.

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Re: Sadolin Ultra vs Sadolin Classic vs Sikkens Cetol 7 Plus

Postby Rod » 08 Feb 2019, 23:11

Yes my woodwork on the south side of the house in the sunny south, needed repainting every 3 to 4 yrs. The north side lasted much much longer. I used the Sikkens system as earlier trials with Sadolin were not too good.
After 27yrs the paint has failed completely and would have needed burning off and starting again. I now have a “dropped” foot after a Cryoablation procedure to blast out my cancer tumour. So my days of climbing up ladders is at an end. Sadly I had to give in and we now have PVC windows and doors.

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Re: Sadolin Ultra vs Sadolin Classic vs Sikkens Cetol 7 Plus

Postby Andyp » 09 Feb 2019, 09:40

Thanks for the update Roger.

What fascinates me most about this is how the unfinished wood will hold up.
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Re: Sadolin Ultra vs Sadolin Classic vs Sikkens Cetol 7 Plus

Postby RogerM » 06 Aug 2019, 14:54

This test has been running for 21 months now, and we're well into the second summer. As expected, mixed results so far.

The Sadolin Ultra, and both Sikkens finishes (walnut and light oak) are holding up well on all timbers. That's rows 1, 3 and 4, with row 5 being bare uncoated timber.

DSCF2205-1.jpg
(405.57 KiB)


The Sadolin Classic (walnut) is however, already showing signs of deterioration on the iroko (column 1) and English oak (column 2), although still holding up well on the Sapele (column 3) and treated softwood (column 4). I didn't degrease any of the woods with meths before painting, so I'm wondering whether that has had any influence. This next photos shows the iroko (left) and oak (right) treated with Sadolin Classic.

DSCF2202-1.jpg
(288.71 KiB)


Let's see what damage another summer inflicts on it.
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Re: Sadolin Ultra vs Sadolin Classic vs Sikkens Cetol 7 Plus

Postby Woodbloke » 06 Aug 2019, 17:48

Rod wrote:. Sadly I had to give in and we now have PVC windows and doors.

Rod


Nothing to be sad about Rod...I wouldn't look any any house if it had wooden windows, principally 'cos exterior house painting of any sort is the pits, although I do manage to give the front door a lick of red paint each year and only then after SWIMBO 'reminds' :eusa-whistle: me to do it, which hasn't happened thus far this summer :D - Rob
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Re: Sadolin Ultra vs Sadolin Classic vs Sikkens Cetol 7 Plus

Postby Simon_M » 13 Sep 2019, 22:47

I had Sadolin Classic (two coats) and Sadolin Extra (like Ultra?) 2 coats on exterior grade ply soffits and fascias and also (not ideal) softwood window frame and window sills. The Classic was there to penetrate the wood and provide a stained finish and the Extras applied to "finish" the surface and add gloss, UV protection and runoff for rain etc.

Eventually the windows were replaced (powder coated aluminium) but the fascia and soffits were left for over 30 years with no extra treatment. From a distance the finish was acceptable and the only issue was that the fascia exposed to the sun would curl slightly. I was told that the ply doesn't need any form of treatment and anything applied is just cosmetic - that's probably not true for the softwood that needs a little help.

The windows were a complete disaster. They were made from softwood and it looked like no attention was paid to the knots by the builder. Within a couple of years the window sills were curling up and the frames were twisting. The builder denied that there was a problem and cut off the sills and replaced them - even worse.

The windows would probably lasted much longer if they had been left a lighter colour - any attempt to give the impression of a hardwood e.g. by staining has the effect of limiting their durability. The pigment in the stain is really it's downfall.

The main problem was staining the wood to a very dark brown. This caused the wood to be affected greatly by sunlight. If it had been a lighter colour the effects of the sun would have been greatly reduced. So in the test workpieces it's consistent that the Classic treated wood would be the first to show wear - aside from colouring the wood there is little on the surface to offer any protection so any surface that is there is quick to go off.
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