It is currently 28 Mar 2024, 09:38
TrimTheKing wrote:Thanks Phil. I've made this a sticky as it seems like it could be a popular one going forwards.
Cheers
Mark
RogerS wrote:I've searched the forum but failed to get the definitive recipe?
Osmo what ?
Liberon Finishing Oil aka varnish (referred as such in one thread)
White spirit - that one's easy
TIA
I think the simplest finish to get right is a wiping varnish. Mix 1/3rd spirit-based varnish, 1/3rd white spirit, one third oil (Tung Oil or Finishing Oil or Danish Oil or Linseed Oil.....in that order of preference). Slap it on with a brush, then wipe it off after 10 minutes max (it mustn't go tacky). Leave for 24 hours, then do the merest wipe-over with a very fine worn old piece of sandpaper, barely touching the surface. Repeat the brushing on/ wiping off. Do this once a day every day for 4 or 5 days or more, and you can build up a really nice finish.
The beauty of it is that you can do this without the spectacular levels of cleanliness required for other finishes, and it produces a robust stain-resistant, water resistant finish which is ideal for a table. Oil and wax finishes are not robust enough for a table as they can be ruined by a cup of tea or a glass of wine.
RogerS wrote:I've searched the forum but failed to get the definitive recipe?
Osmo what ?
Liberon Finishing Oil aka varnish (referred as such in one thread)
White spirit - that one's easy
TIA
RogerS wrote:Thanks chaps although slightly bemused as Rob mentions Osmo Polyx but Dr Al mentions Ronseal Polyurethane.
And spirit-based varnish....but Osmo POlyx is an oil, surely ?
RogerS wrote:Thanks chaps although slightly bemused as Rob mentions Osmo Polyx but Dr Al mentions Ronseal Polyurethane.
And spirit-based varnish....but Osmo POlyx is an oil, surely ?
Dr.Al wrote:
....he said that any varnish is fine as long as it tells you to clean the brushes with white spirit, not water.
Lons wrote:Does it have to be white spirit or ok to use Turps substitute which is slightly oily?
AndyT wrote:- Danish Oil is already a mixture, of oil and varnish and a solvent
- the stuff that Rustins sell as 'Finishing oil' is just Danish oil by another name.
AndyT wrote:The bit that strikes me as odd in Mike's list is including Finishing Oil and Danish Oil alongside linseed and Tung.
Manufacturers' naming of their products is a confusing minefield, but as far as I know:
- linseed oil is a plain oil, so does belong in that category
- tung oil should be a plain oil but some manufacturers put that name on a mixture
- Danish Oil is already a mixture, of oil and varnish and a solvent
- the stuff that Rustins sell as 'Finishing oil' is just Danish oil by another name.
I'm not saying that any of these mixtures won't work - and I know that the various brands of Danish oil have different proportions of ingredients.
I sometimes think it would be useful to have a UK equivalent to Bob Flexner's guides for US products but covering brands sold here. I'm not aware of one.
Phil Pascoe wrote:I queried one supplier about their w.s. not having a BS number and was told that anything sold as w.s. legally has to comply with the standard. (Why they didn't mark it thus, who knows?)
AndyT wrote:The bit that strikes me as odd in Mike's list is including Finishing Oil and Danish Oil alongside linseed and Tung.
Manufacturers' naming of their products is a confusing minefield, but as far as I know:
- linseed oil is a plain oil, so does belong in that category
- tung oil should be a plain oil but some manufacturers put that name on a mixture
- Danish Oil is already a mixture, of oil and varnish and a solvent
- the stuff that Rustins sell as 'Finishing oil' is just Danish oil by another name.
I'm not saying that any of these mixtures won't work - and I know that the various brands of Danish oil have different proportions of ingredients.....
Lons wrote:Does it have to be white spirit or ok to use Turps substitute which is slightly oily?
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