It is currently 29 Mar 2024, 01:16
9fingers wrote:For a quick peek into the nightmare of dimming Fluorescents have a read here
https://www.etcconnect.com/Support/Arti ... gType=1033
accept information overload and then decide that it is not worth the aggro as you have got used to fixed brightness ones to date anyway!
Bob
Andyp wrote:9fingers wrote:For a quick peek into the nightmare of dimming Fluorescents have a read here
https://www.etcconnect.com/Support/Arti ... gType=1033
accept information overload and then decide that it is not worth the aggro as you have got used to fixed brightness ones to date anyway!
Bob
I have been having a chat with a chap at BLT direct who assures me that this dimmer switch
https://www.bltdirect.com/1-gang-300w-2 ... ite-button
will work with the dimmable HF Philips ballast.
I am willing to give it a try and go back to non-dimmable if it does not work.
Andyp wrote:Thanks Bob, I have already emailed the manufacturers Varilight.
I will let you know.
Andyp wrote:Whether this gormless idiot can make sense of the wiring diagram is another matter.
Tusses wrote:I was actually thinking of you .. with the mystery of dimming tubes and extra wiring and dimmers and ballasts and .. err .. everything else ! lol
Just thought if you had a bulb or light unit that was remote controlled, you wouldn't have to worry.
but if you are sorted that's good :-)
Robert wrote:I retired from manufacturing lighting in 2006 so I'm now out of touch with the latest equipment.
Personally I wouldn't touch dimming with fluorescents in your situation. We often used dimming gear in commercial fluorescents and as you dim them down you get strobing caused by the discharge being a little unstable with patterns travelling along the lamps.
That was with commercial 10V control. How it will be with a dimmer made by Varilight I don't know. I bought a Varilight brand dimmer for some LEDs I installed and ended up returning it because of flashing.
HF gear is a good idea, dimming is not.
old wrote:I picked up a hf unit to replace starter and choke and it starts up very quick and i can detect no flicker. so economical as you use fitting and tube just mains input and 2x2 wires to tube pins.
Andyp wrote:old wrote:I picked up a hf unit to replace starter and choke and it starts up very quick and i can detect no flicker. so economical as you use fitting and tube just mains input and 2x2 wires to tube pins.
Thanks Chris. It is not the detectable flicker that is the problem. Some epilepsy sufferers can detect, more correctly their brain can detect, things that "normal" people cannot.
Do you also notive that there is no hum from the HF choke.
By the way is it a choke or a ballast? I suspect it is one and the same.
I rate Varilight as they seem very open and knowledgeable and their business philosophy seems very soundAndyp wrote:Thanks Bob, I have already emailed the manufacturers Varilight.
I will let you know.
Return to The Woodmangler's Retreat
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 25 guests