Me !Robert wrote:.....
So what controls are there? Manual at the momentIs there something to stop the cylinder taking all the flow and leaving none for the rads?
It is currently 28 Mar 2024, 13:22
Me !Robert wrote:.....
So what controls are there? Manual at the momentIs there something to stop the cylinder taking all the flow and leaving none for the rads?
Robert wrote:.....
Ignoring arguments as to the cause...any improvement in the general heat output so far?
Deejay wrote:Morning Roger
There are no old valves or fittings left in the reused mains. No valves but couplers etc
The vent and feed connections are OK. Yup although on one forum he's insisting that the feed is blocked...which it isn't
What was once impossible to bleed is now bled. Sounds to me like the beggaring about with it has shifted a blockage. Mains water from your hose would bypass an airlock. but not easily go through a lump of sludge. I never fed mains (well, my pump pressure as it's my own water supply!) int the rad bleed valve. No sludge.
Get it hot on the highest pump setting and drain a bit off the rad's to see if the water is clean. Squeaky
Fit a Magnaclean if you don't already have one. Already fitted, thanks. Great believer in them
Bleed it every few days until the air has gone. Getting to the point where I am tempted to simulate the pump under room thermo stat control
Leave it alone. Good idea !
Cheers
Dave
9fingers wrote:A couple of points.
Unless the design of pumps has changed with these new fangled "a" rated expensive pumps, there is minimal constraint to flow when the pump is off.
An upstairs pump within a few feet vertically of the header tank is surely asking for trouble and get it pumping over or sucking in air.It is an interesting idea and I immediately thought about all the points that you mention below...great minds and all that. I still will try it. BUT...a big but. At the suggestion of another guy over on another forum I stuck the end of the vent pipe into a small paint kettle with water in it...less than a litre which is much less than the volume of water inside the vent pipe. As I reported in an earlier post, when the pump was switched off, air bubbled out..when the pump was switched back on then the water (but not all of it) was drawn up into the vent pipe. Still...worth double-checking.
I've always had downstairs pumps near the heat source and until now never come across this "neutral point" term/requirement.
Further thought..... if switching off the pump induces an airlock, then the running pump ressure must be trapping some air somewhere due to its running pressure, that when switched off get introduced to an "important " bit of the circuit and stop it functioning? That's kind of what I'm thinking
Second further thought. Is it the act of the pump starting up that is sucking in a fresh supply of air and causing the air lock that way? As a test, get the system working well, TEMPORARILY close off the vent pipe.
Now does stopping and restarting the pump induce an airlock?
Have you tried turning the pump down to minimum setting? It's on minimumStill got the problem?
Bob
RogerS wrote:The flow is not that rapid, Robert.
Problem 1...trying to 'fast' bleed by opening the return on the bleed rad, we get a few bubbles and then it stops. Nothing flows out.
Deejay wrote:Roger
Are the 'fins' horizontal or vertical? horizontal
If they are vertical, is the MT cock at the top of the rad? N/A
A picture of the entire rad showing the floor would be useful.
Have you tried my suggestion? Not yet. Will wait until plumber is back as it's all working at the moment!
Cheers
Dave
Deejay wrote:Roger
If the body of the cock is horizontal, gravity won't move the washer to reseal it.
It was a long shot anyway.
Cheers
Dave
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