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wizer's Workshop

Roll up, roll up. Here you will find everything from new workshop designs, through builds to completed workshop tours. All magnificently overseen by our own Mike G and his tremendously thorough 'Shed' design and generous advice.

Re: wizer's Workshop

Postby Tusses » 24 Jul 2017, 16:42

Good to see you posting Wizer :-)
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Re: wizer's Workshop

Postby Pinch » 24 Jul 2017, 19:02

Welcome back Tom! 8-)
In my previous life, I was a tree.
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Re: wizer's Workshop

Postby Rod » 24 Jul 2017, 19:17

I used screws in my shed build, worked a treat.

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Re: wizer's Workshop

Postby MattS » 25 Jul 2017, 22:28

Tom as in creator of the Wood Haven Tom?? Good to have you back posting, hope you're well.
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Re: wizer's Workshop

Postby oddsocks » 30 Jul 2017, 14:43

Hi Tom, welcome back. re the air nailers, I've not bought this specific one but other items I've bought from SGS have been good quality. Its £139 but showing out of stock at the moment.
http://www.sgs-engineering.com/air-tool ... r-nail-gun

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Re: wizer's Workshop

Postby RogerS » 30 Jul 2017, 19:08

TrimTheKing wrote:General consensus seems to be buy second hand Paslode (I think you used to have one of those didn't you?) then sell on ebay after.

Cheers
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Welcome back, Tom.

Buy a Paslode secondhand? Nuts! They have a reputation for being finicky and needing to be looked after. So it could end up being a dog.

Buy a new one then sell it on eBay.
If opportunity doesn't knock, build a door.
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Re: wizer's Workshop

Postby wizer » 18 Sep 2017, 16:35

I expected progress to be slow, but even I'm surprised how sluggish this build has been :shock:

A frustrating combination of parenting & work duties, coupled with dodgy back and inclement weather ('summer'?), all have got in the way of progress.

The form for the concrete slab is basically done. It aint perfect, but it's as good as our abilities. Although I'm extremely paranoid about it failing :?

Image

Since then we have hand shovelled 3 bulk bags of MOT Hardcore into it and whacked it flat.

Image

and I'm 90% finished with the layer of sand, just need to finish the corners and even it up.

Image

Hopefully one more dry weekend and I'll be ready for concrete :? :eusa-think:
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Re: wizer's Workshop

Postby TrimTheKing » 18 Sep 2017, 16:54

You're still light speed compared to me Tom!!

Cheers
Mark


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Cheers
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Re: wizer's Workshop

Postby Mike G » 18 Sep 2017, 18:19

Looking great, Tom.
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Re: wizer's Workshop

Postby Malc2098 » 18 Sep 2017, 21:36

Bloomin' neat!
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Re: wizer's Workshop

Postby wizer » 19 Sep 2017, 13:45

How concerned about the corners do I need to be with regards to compacting the hardcore/sand? The whacker doesn't work well in the corners, it wants to either chew up the wood form or the sand as I pull it back.

I can buy a tamper:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/351481607738

But I'd rather not spend £33 :eusa-think:
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Re: wizer's Workshop

Postby TrimTheKing » 19 Sep 2017, 14:04

Cut a 6" square from a piece of ply or OSB, place it on the end of a piece of 4x4 and nail it on then use that to tamp into the corners. It will be fine with a few whacks from that.

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Re: wizer's Workshop

Postby Mike G » 19 Sep 2017, 15:49

Or just use the end of a sledge hammer, , vertically.
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Re: wizer's Workshop

Postby wizer » 19 Sep 2017, 16:41

Good thanks

So next steps (thinking out loud).

Finish compacting the sand
Lay & join the DPM
Place the mesh 50mm from form edge, on top of 40mm concrete spacers.
Tie mesh together
Chuck a load of concrete in it and hope for the best...

Am I missing anything?

Do I cut the DPM exactly to the form, or does it protrude?
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Re: wizer's Workshop

Postby Tusses » 19 Sep 2017, 17:17

leave the DPC big. like a pond liner , it will settle. Don't trim it until you needto
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Re: wizer's Workshop

Postby StevieB » 19 Sep 2017, 17:25

Tusses wrote:leave the DPC big. like a pond liner , it will settle. Don't trim it until you needto


:text-+1: - you will be amazed at how the concrete will not push the liner flat. Always leave it as long as you can for as long as you can - it is easy enough to trim back later.

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Re: wizer's Workshop

Postby Rod » 19 Sep 2017, 17:54

Tamp the concrete to remove any air.
If you've any timber left long enough use that across the timber shutter sides to level it off.

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Re: wizer's Workshop

Postby wizer » 21 Sep 2017, 08:42

I'm wondering what equipment I'll need for pour day. Doesn't look like a vibrating poker is too much to rent for a day? Should I go as far as a power float/screed?

I'm going to buy a couple of magnesium floats. Anything else I need?
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Re: wizer's Workshop

Postby Mike G » 21 Sep 2017, 08:59

You don't need a vibrating poker Tom. Those are only necessary with extensive reinforcing. You'll need wellies (you'll be walking around in the wet concrete), a rake, some gloves, and a long straight edge with handle-holes, for tamping. That's assuming your slab is too wide to tamp from the outside. You'll also need a wheel barrow. Plus of course a stiff brush and hose for cleaning everything up afterwards. Also, have some help.

If you are planning on putting a smooth finish on it, you'll need a power float (knowing when, not how, to use it is the big deal) or a couple of floats* and some boards to kneel on. If your pour is in the morning, go and check it mid afternoon and see if it is dry enough to start floating up. There are Youtube clips on floating concrete..........it isn't high-skill work.

As a tip, prepare another area for concrete. This might be a path base, or car standing, or foundation for another shed, or whatever, so that is you have a little left-over concrete you have somewhere to use it usefully rather than waste it.

Any doubts, give me a buzz.

*I use one steel float to work the concrete, and a cheapo plastic one to lean on with my other hand to extend my reach.
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Re: wizer's Workshop

Postby wizer » 21 Sep 2017, 14:51

Concrete Booked! Sat 30th :shock:

I've enlisted a couple of labourers from work, along with me, Anita and FIL.

Going to order a couple of concrete rakes and floats and hire a bull float.

I think I'm going to hand float it. It will probably end up being covered by flooring, so it doesn't have to be perfectly smooth.
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Re: wizer's Workshop

Postby 9fingers » 21 Sep 2017, 15:01

Just in case it pi88es with rain, I'd have some covering to hand.
Either enough plastic tarps or get a roll of builders polythene sheet which is usually 4m wide folded in half eg a 2m wide roll. It will be useful for other things during the build like covering materials, and temp shelter over the roof before the tiles etc go on. Also can be a vapour barrier and cheapo insulation retainer.

You can use left over DPM but it tends to be a heavier, stiffer type polythene and less "cooperative" when you are trying to spread it out with insufficient pairs of hands. Also longer term it is not proof against ultra violet and disintegrates over time.

Good luck

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Re: wizer's Workshop

Postby wizer » 21 Sep 2017, 15:15

Good point Bob. I'm guessing heavy rain will stop play?

I've been keeping the form covered with tarps, so I have enough. You never know, we might have a heat wave 8-)
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Re: wizer's Workshop

Postby Mike G » 21 Sep 2017, 16:15

A garden rake is fine, Tom, and bull floating is the one thing I wouldn't recommend, because there really is a knack to it. You'll be fine kneeling and floating with an orthodox hand float.
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Re: wizer's Workshop

Postby 9fingers » 21 Sep 2017, 16:30

wizer wrote:Good point Bob. I'm guessing heavy rain will stop play?

I've been keeping the form covered with tarps, so I have enough. You never know, we might have a heat wave 8-)



No it wont totally stop play but it it is really torrential, then you need to try and not work the concrete any more than needed. Water lying on the concrete is not the end of the world but diluting and washing cement out of the mix is to be avoided. If you are using one of these "mix on site wagons" then ask the guy about making a dryer mix if it really raining hard.
The concrete curing process is NOT one of drying but a chemical change most of which happens in the first day or so to the Green stage, when you can gently walk on and take off any excess water with a soft broom but stay off the edges. From them on it increases in strength gradually over a few weeks.
If there are no puddles left by the next day then take off the tarps but otherwise leave well alone for say a week unless you are really desperate to crack on.

Good Luck

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Re: wizer's Workshop

Postby wizer » 24 Sep 2017, 13:23

The width of my DPM is exactly the same as the form 4.2m. Should I bother joining a bit on, or will this be ok?

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