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Nick's workshop

Roll up, roll up. Here you will find everything from new workshop designs, through builds to completed workshop tours. All magnificently overseen by our own Mike G and his tremendously thorough 'Shed' design and generous advice.

Re: Nick's workshop

Postby Mike G » 21 Sep 2018, 15:53

bluebirdnick wrote:......
20180920_174821_resized.jpg


At the moment you have the load from the ridge beam going through a plate, centre-span. Whilst this plate is acting as a tie and thus in tension, it will still deflect. You need a proper lintel in over the door opening.
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Re: Nick's workshop

Postby bluebirdnick » 21 Sep 2018, 20:27

Thanks everyone for the encouraging messages. I've had a busy day - all the rafters are in; all of the blocks at the eves that sit between the rafters are in; and 4 full sheets of OSB are installed on the roof. A quickly taken picture is to follow. I still need to install some cut-down OSB sheets to complete the roof, but with most of the OSB on the roof I have finally been able to clear the drive so my wife can park there again. This is BIG NEWS and has won me brownie points - we have parking restrictions on the road and my wife was unable to get the car onto the drive past the building materials that have been there all week. She can now park the car on the drive again, which has gone down very well.*

Mike - I agree, and that's the plan. If I were to install a door today it woudl be just 1.7m high, so it will have to change.

The plan is to leave the vertical props in place temporarily; cut the sole plate and wall plate; install the door lining (6x2 timber) which gives a double-batten at each side of the door; add doubled-up 4x2 timber above the new door lining to form the lintel; install a post coming off that lintel to support the ridge beam; and then remove the props. Hard to explain in words, but hopefully the diagrams on the previous page show what I mean! I did it in two steps because I thought that was the most secure and certain way to do it.

It will look a bit odd as the lintel will be above the eves, but it was the best compromise I could find in order to get within permitted development and maintain something of a pitch on the roof. The building faces the road and most other houses have garages like our old one with nice high ridges, so having a totally squat building didn't seem right. It is still going to be pretty flat compared to the rest, but an eves height of 1.8m was as low as I was prepared to go.

*I was able to park the car on the drive past the building materials, as was my dad. However, pointing this out did not really deal with the situation and just getting the timber and sheet material off the drive before the weekend was definitely the better approach.
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Re: Nick's workshop

Postby bluebirdnick » 21 Sep 2018, 21:24

Progress as at about 4pm today. Only other development after this was getting ties in on the gable rafters and the middle rafters; and getting most of the OSB up on the roof.
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Re: Nick's workshop

Postby bluebirdnick » 22 Sep 2018, 01:41

Some points of detail/lessons for next time, recorded more for my own benefit really:

1. I forgot the straps. Will add them over the weekend, weather permitting. I'll have to fix them to the concrete floor or blockwork.

2. In the thread above, I asked whether I can use aerated blocks on the exernal skin. I did do this on the wall which is tight to the the fence, with 140mm wide blocks. I gave Celcon/H+H a call beforehand to check with them what I am doing, which will include dropping the box profile cladding on that side to ground level so as to cover the blocks. (This was something I had decided to do to allow me to use longer metal cladding sheets, which give me flexibility on design of the building when I move it). They said it was fine, so that is what i have done. To try to err on the side of caution I did "render" the external face with a coat of 4:1 sand:cement mortar. Time will tell if it will work.

3. On the opposite wall I used bricks as the external face, and used full 100mm blocks (rather than 100mm cut-in-half blocks) on the internal face as we were struggling for time to get them cut and I had enough to lay that skin in full block widths. It will look a bit odd on the inside and will make strapping a bit harder/less effective, but it meant we got the job done in the time we had allotted to it.

4. There are doors front and back, so the brick wall is actually 2 separate "U" shaped walls. My errors mean that one is about 8-10mm lower than the other, but both are level in themselves. I therefore screwed some 9mm ply onto the bottom of the sole plates on the low side, and painted this with end grain treatment. Not ideal, but it seemed like the best way to deal with the error in the brickwork.

5. You can barely see it, but I did put down some narrow DPC that does sit under the sole plates. Next time I will use wider stuff. In this build I am hoping it will perform 2 tasks: protect the timber against rising damp; and also provide a clean surface for the sole plates to be cut away from in a year or so's time

6. With a view to preserving the wall panels and to facilitate moving the building in a year or so, I used building silicone rather than mortar to bed the wall panels onto the plinth. My theory is that it will be easier and cleaner to slide a blade underneath the wall plates to cut them away from the plinth than it would be to get them out of mortar. And to be honest, I really couldn't face any more sand and cement at that point. I also put dabs of silicone under the dpc - I didn't like the thought of it unbonded to the plinth and so subject to slip around.

7. I cannot bolt the wall panels together! I need bolts at 6 junctions: each of the corners; and the joins in the middle of the two long walls. I've managed about half of this using my dad's drill, but he left this morning and my 18v drills just don't have the power to get through. The only mains powered drill I have now is a 5kg SDS monster, and that is far too big to get into place to drill the holes I need. I've temporarily clamped the unjoined corners. I think I'll find a way through the connections in the middle of the long wall, but the corners have me stumped. When using my dad's drill I had most success with a 12mm auger bit, but my drill dies when trying to it through the corners, even when I do it in phases.
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Re: Nick's workshop

Postby bluebirdnick » 22 Sep 2018, 18:25

A question. I got the roof covered with OSB this morning, but it started raining before I could get the breather membrane on the roof. I waited for an opportunity to get out there to finish off, but it didn't come.

If I can get 30 mins free in the morning, can I cover the wet boards with breather membrane? It is due to rain heavily tomorrow. I would obviously do what I could to dry them as I go, but as a matter of principle is it OK to cover damp/wet boards?
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Re: Nick's workshop

Postby 9fingers » 22 Sep 2018, 18:30

bluebirdnick wrote:A question. I got the roof covered with OSB this morning, but it started raining before I could get the breather membrane on the roof. I waited for an opportunity to get out there to finish off, but it didn't come.

If I can get 30 mins free in the morning, can I cover the wet boards with breather membrane? It is due to rain heavily tomorrow. I would obviously do what I could to dry them as I go, but as a matter of principle is it OK to cover damp/wet boards?


I'd always assumed that the breatheable feature would allow water vapour through but not liquid water. OSB is reasonable resistant to water due to high glue content. So I think you will be fine.

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Re: Nick's workshop

Postby Rod » 23 Sep 2018, 00:04

What roof covering are you proposing as EPDM sticks better to new OSB and are we talking about the top layer of OSB? I cannot see that breather membrane here will do any good.
It will keep the rain out nailed to the wall sections.

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Re: Nick's workshop

Postby bluebirdnick » 23 Sep 2018, 11:37

I am going to put on box profile metal sheets. Originally this was all I was going to go with (this is a temporary building) but advice here has correctly pointed out the condensation issues, so I've put OSB on top of the rafters. I was going to cover the OSB with a breathable membrane; then battens; then the cladding. The membrane was only going on because it will be 2 weeks before the metal sheets arrive and I wanted some sort of protection for the OSB in the meantime, and the membrane I intend to use for the walls comes on a roll so big that I have more than enough to spare for the roof.

The weather did clear up briefly around 6am this morning, but the little one picked up a virus yesterday and had kept us up all night so I was in no state to do any work on the roof! It is going to dry out in the next couple of hours and due to be dry from then on for the rest of the week, so I might just sit it out and let it dry out this week while I am in work.
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Re: Nick's workshop

Postby Malc2098 » 23 Sep 2018, 13:00

After I got my osb sheathing up, I got a cheap couple of plastic tarps from any diy outlet and anchored them Dow till I cold get the metal on . They’re cheap enough to dispose of after, and you might even be lucky for them not to be torn at the end of the job.
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Re: Nick's workshop

Postby bluebirdnick » 23 Sep 2018, 22:43

Thanks all. The weather cleared up beautifully around lunchtime and by 5pm everything was dry (or at least felt dry). I've covered it with a breathable membrane, which is hopefully doing the same thing as the pastic sheets did on Malcolm's shed ie keeping the boards dry until the roofing material arrives. I wil leave the membrane on my roof though - I might as well, now that it is there. And I don't want to have to go back on to the roof just to take it off!

Next job is wrapping the building, and adding the FE boards. But that will have to wait until next weekend, assuming I can get a few hours during the week to paint them.
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Re: Nick's workshop

Postby tabs » 25 Sep 2018, 20:38

Thats looking good and you're making much quicker progress than I am!

I have my walls up and screwed the panels together. Part drilled and used a driver which is a godsend and it seems pretty sturdy, much easier than the last shed I build when I used bolts.


Did you screw or nail the OSB ? What size nails/screws did you use.
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Re: Nick's workshop

Postby bluebirdnick » 27 Sep 2018, 00:10

hi Tabs

I screwed the OSB down. I used 4.5mm/40mm screws - the ones that require no pre-drilling as I didn't want to spend longer on the roof than I absolutely had to. But then I am using screws everywhere other than fixing the FE boards, as I expect to take it all down again and move it in a year or so. What I found when I made the shed last year was that the small screws do shear and break quite easily. I had to remove the sheet material on the roof to change the design after a week or so, and quite a few had broken. I think one of the benefits of nails is that they are more likely to bend than snap which may be an advantage, but as I say above I screwed mine down as I want to remove that material again in the not too distant future.

I am in work until Xmas so progress will now slow to whenever I have time on weekends, but next steps are installing membrane and battens on walls; and painting and installing FE boards. Then I need to do doors and windows. Conceivably I could be secure by the end of the weekend, and finished by mid October. But please realise that getting a building up as quickly as possible was the main objective and my build is far more basic than the others on here - I used a pre-existing slab; there is no insulation; no internal wall lining; a roof that will arrive cut to size and ready to screw on; and lots of details such as the arris rail at the foot of the wall are missing on mine. And I have benefitted a lot from having done the practice shed last year. I spent a lot of time scratching my head during that build trying to work out how best to build frames; square things up; do corner details etc. This time I am trying to apply what I learned, which has led to far more activity and far less pondering! The main area where I had to learn things this time was the brickwork, but as I say above I am displeased with what I have managed and will likely ask a bricklayer to do the next one for me. Yours looks much better - well done!
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Re: Nick's workshop

Postby bluebirdnick » 21 Oct 2018, 16:22

Hi all

I've had almost no time so progress has all but stopped. I had a full day free yesterday and wanted to get the doors on, but I simply couldn't work out how to bend the hinges. Any tips? The hinges I have are pretty heavy, and I just cannot find a way to bend them cleanly. I've got a small bench vice that I thought would do the trick but I end up with a massive radius. What's the correct technique? Or do I just need lighter hinges?

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Re: Nick's workshop

Postby Malc2098 » 21 Oct 2018, 16:33

Nick,

I trolled round the industrial estates in mine and nearby towns till I found a little fabrication firm who had a sheet bender. I told them what I was doing and showed them the scribed mark and which was inside and outside and offered a fiver for their coffee club. They took about three minutes to do six.
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Re: Nick's workshop

Postby Woolf » 21 Oct 2018, 19:47

These will work but you’ll require a bigger metalwork vice. The jaw must be wide enough to allow the metal being bent to fit past the vice slide.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Veritas-Metal- ... ice+bender

https://www.axminster.co.uk/adjustable- ... rs-ax20496
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Re: Nick's workshop

Postby bluebirdnick » 22 Oct 2018, 12:10

Thanks both. Those additions for a vice look perfect, but I have the problem you identify in that my vice is pretty shallow. I will see if I can find someone to bend my hinges this weekend.

If I cannot find someone, then given my time constraints, I may just go with doors that open inwards instead.
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Re: Nick's workshop

Postby bluebirdnick » 03 Mar 2019, 11:46

This did actually get built in the end. Not quite finished as this pic shows, but finished enough that I've been using it pretty much since my last post here in October. There is still a bit to do and if I get a an hour or so I will finish cladding the front today and putting an edge on that roof, but wanted to thank everyone (again) for their comments and posting their own builds as it is really helpful! I gave up on bending the hinges in the end, so the doors open inwards. The front doors are there for show really, I have almost no reason to open them as the back door is closer to the house so it's not that big of a deal, in particular as it's only going to be there for 2 years.

The doors will be painted - the front doors will be red to match the house front door; and the back door will be turquoise as I've got some leftover paint - turquoise was the first colour we picked for the shed, before deciding it needed to be a lot darker. Which actually means I've painted all of the cladding twice! I've spent longer painting this building than I have spent building the thing. There are some other odds and ends to finish off (guttering, windows) but mostly finished now.
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Re: Nick's workshop

Postby Rod » 03 Mar 2019, 12:08

Looks very good.

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Re: Nick's workshop

Postby Andyp » 03 Mar 2019, 12:17

I hope you are proud of yourself, you should be.

Dont forget to show us a bit of what you get up to in there.
I do not think therefore I do not am.

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Re: Nick's workshop

Postby Malc2098 » 03 Mar 2019, 22:26

Nice job!
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Re: Nick's workshop

Postby TrimTheKing » 04 Mar 2019, 12:56

Looks great mate, top job.

:text-bravo:
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Re: Nick's workshop

Postby bluebirdnick » 04 Mar 2019, 21:32

Thanks, all. This is a simpler building than the others on here so when I get a minute I'll try to get some photos up of some of the short-cuts I have taken.
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Re: Nick's workshop

Postby tabs » 08 Mar 2019, 14:19

Nice, I like the colour
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Re: Nick's workshop

Postby bluebirdnick » 08 Apr 2020, 21:36

Hi all. I did finish this in the end, probably around easter last year. So about a year ago. Here is the proof:

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Re: Nick's workshop

Postby bluebirdnick » 08 Apr 2020, 21:45

... and then in January this year we started the side extension so it got taken apart again! Again - proof:


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The builder arrived at about 9am to start taking it apart. Somewhat depressingly, he had it dismantled and stored in the back garden in the constituent panels, with the brick plinth in the skip, by lunchtime. Oh well.

So, it is now ready to be re-assembled in the back garden as soon as I can build/afford a new base and plinth. It unbolted really quickly and easily so my hope (!) is that it will go together as easily again. I may make it a bit shorter, but that is just a case of amending two of the side panels and cutting the ridge beam. Time will tell.

Thanks to everyone on here for sharing their wisdom, in this thread and in the multiple threads on this part of the board. It's a brilliant resource, and I'm quite proud of what I did with your help. When I rebuild it I am going to add some of the other key elements like insulation and osb lining, but for £1500 or whatever I spent on it so far and the effort I put in, it is a bargain. The hardest part was the plinth (not doing that again myself) and the longest part was the painting which took forever - the carpentry bit in the middle was a doddle really, and good fun.
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