It is currently 28 Mar 2024, 23:45

Tez's Workshop Build

Roll up, roll up. Here you will find everything from new workshop designs, through builds to completed workshop tours. All magnificently overseen by our own Mike G and his tremendously thorough 'Shed' design and generous advice.

Re: Tez's Workshop Build

Postby tabs » 04 Jan 2019, 18:21

9fingers wrote:Brilliant progress all inside 30 mins too :lol: :lol:

Bob


I'm like Speedy Gonzales once I get going!
tabs
New Shoots
 
Posts: 146
Joined: 02 Dec 2014, 21:46
Location: Wigan
Name: Tez

Re: Tez's Workshop Build

Postby tabs » 04 Jan 2019, 18:25

I battened around the outside of the roof with some 50x50mm before putting on the 50mm insulation

roof insulation.jpg
50mm insulation with EPDM ready to go on.
(183.37 KiB)


I put 50mm of PIR insulation on top of the vapour barrier. Normally you would then board over this with 9mm osb but it can be omittd and as this isn't for habitation I thought cost wise it would be overkill.

Attaching the PIR insulation was a bit of a problem as will explain in my next post.

You can see the firestone epdm ready to be layed, getting that up on the roof by myself was a big job.
Last edited by tabs on 04 Jan 2019, 21:03, edited 1 time in total.
tabs
New Shoots
 
Posts: 146
Joined: 02 Dec 2014, 21:46
Location: Wigan
Name: Tez

Re: Tez's Workshop Build

Postby tabs » 04 Jan 2019, 19:00

When installing a warm roof , the insulation(and board on top if any) need to be secured to the joists or board underneath. It seems most of the installers in my area just use either slab nails or helifix nails to fix the insulation. However when using these on a warm roof the heads will be on top of the insulation/board and as there is some compression and bounce back of the material when walked on eventually you can get the nail head breaking through the EPDM membrane. The best way to fix is to use plastic tube washers. The screw gets screwed thruoght the tube washer and its head ends up between 15-25mm under the surface of the insulation, thus stopping the danger of it breaking through the roof covering.

However I could not get hold of these locally and it was going to cost my £60 to order them online when I only needed 30. So I instead got some large washers, cut out a square 20mm deep piece of insulation and screwed into the raftrs as in picture below.

tube washer 1.jpg
(260.06 KiB)
tabs
New Shoots
 
Posts: 146
Joined: 02 Dec 2014, 21:46
Location: Wigan
Name: Tez

Re: Tez's Workshop Build

Postby tabs » 04 Jan 2019, 19:04

tube washer 2 .jpg
(239.37 KiB)


I then glued replaced the cut out as above, should be no danger of break through now!

Another added advanatge of doing it this way is you are not breaking the thermal barrier.
tabs
New Shoots
 
Posts: 146
Joined: 02 Dec 2014, 21:46
Location: Wigan
Name: Tez

Re: Tez's Workshop Build

Postby tabs » 04 Jan 2019, 20:55

Heres the window for my workshop. Got it for £50 off a mate whos a window fitter, brand new but sent back as wrong sort of window.

window.jpg
(208.18 KiB)


I deliberately had'nt framed out the window as I didn't know the size I would be able to get hold of, but have done it now:

window frame.jpg
(220.59 KiB)
tabs
New Shoots
 
Posts: 146
Joined: 02 Dec 2014, 21:46
Location: Wigan
Name: Tez

Re: Tez's Workshop Build

Postby tabs » 04 Jan 2019, 20:58

This is badly out of focus but gives an idea of how I want the underside of roof to look, I will take a better one and upload it.

under roof.jpg
(155.68 KiB)


Shot showing how the rafter details ended up. Going to keep it that dark grey coloour but give it another coat. I'm either going to paint the underside of the OSB the same or maybe use some battens and put some thin T&G up there.
tabs
New Shoots
 
Posts: 146
Joined: 02 Dec 2014, 21:46
Location: Wigan
Name: Tez

Re: Tez's Workshop Build

Postby tabs » 14 Jun 2019, 13:45

Just about finished now, have some pictures which I will get uploaded over the weekend. I'm just about to order the cladding today. Going for 200mm wide british larch featheredge.. I need about 172 linear metres which I've been getting quotes ranging from £720 to £850 delivered. However have found a place in Devon which will actually deliver for £520. However where the profile from most timber yards had been 6-9/23-25 mm the profile on this one is 5/17mm. I think this sort of thickness will be ok? What do you guys think?
tabs
New Shoots
 
Posts: 146
Joined: 02 Dec 2014, 21:46
Location: Wigan
Name: Tez

Re: Tez's Workshop Build

Postby 9fingers » 14 Jun 2019, 13:56

tabs wrote:Just about finished now, have some pictures which I will get uploaded over the weekend. I'm just about to order the cladding today. Going for 200mm wide british larch featheredge.. I need about 172 linear metres which I've been getting quotes ranging from £720 to £850 delivered. However have found a place in Devon which will actually deliver for £520. However where the profile from most timber yards had been 6-9/23-25 mm the profile on this one is 5/17mm. I think this sort of thickness will be ok? What do you guys think?


My concern with the thinner stock would be that it might curl much more as it dries but only time will tell

The thin stuff will possibly be cut from 25mm boards and the thicker from about 35mm so that make the prices similar per cu m.
I used the thicker stock in pressure treated softwood and soaked it in full lead creosote in 2006 and it has been fine. Maybe other workshop builders can contribute their experiences too?

Bob
Information on induction motors here
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dBTVXx ... sp=sharing
Email:motors@minchin.org.uk
User avatar
9fingers
Petrified Pine
 
Posts: 10038
Joined: 21 Jul 2014, 20:22
Location: Romsey Hampshire between Southampton and the New Forest
Name: Bob

Re: Tez's Workshop Build

Postby tabs » 14 Jun 2019, 14:03

Thanks Bob , I've no experience of using larch cladding so hadn't considered the possibility of the thinner stock curling. Would this be something the suppliers would give me the truth about if I asked?
tabs
New Shoots
 
Posts: 146
Joined: 02 Dec 2014, 21:46
Location: Wigan
Name: Tez

Re: Tez's Workshop Build

Postby 9fingers » 14 Jun 2019, 14:12

tabs wrote:Thanks Bob , I've no experience of using larch cladding so hadn't considered the possibility of the thinner stock curling. Would this be something the suppliers would give me the truth about if I asked?


I've no experience of larch either. I think it is a fast growing timber with wide growth rings like softwood.
As for honest opinions from a vendor I guess it is the luck of the draw.
Better chance of unbiassed comment if one place sells both sizes maybe but it is a bit like asking if they would like a smaller or larger value order from you.

Hopefully MikeG might be along at some stage as he may have experienced both sizes although he might be bike riding across France by now?

Sorry I can't be more definitive

Bob
Information on induction motors here
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dBTVXx ... sp=sharing
Email:motors@minchin.org.uk
User avatar
9fingers
Petrified Pine
 
Posts: 10038
Joined: 21 Jul 2014, 20:22
Location: Romsey Hampshire between Southampton and the New Forest
Name: Bob

Re: Tez's Workshop Build

Postby 9fingers » 14 Jun 2019, 14:22

A bit of googling turns up various opinions on feather edge boards.
Such as having a rebate or not and fitting the boards such that any curl will be towards the building surface rather than away from it.
Also only one fixing across the width of each board to avoid splits. I did not know this when I did mine and I have splits :oops:

Bob
Information on induction motors here
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dBTVXx ... sp=sharing
Email:motors@minchin.org.uk
User avatar
9fingers
Petrified Pine
 
Posts: 10038
Joined: 21 Jul 2014, 20:22
Location: Romsey Hampshire between Southampton and the New Forest
Name: Bob

Re: Tez's Workshop Build

Postby Malc2098 » 14 Jun 2019, 15:26

I used a Devon sawmill for my feather edge, and because it's a sawmill, you can specify your own dimensions. I erred on the side of bulk!

I still have quite a bit left as I have a habit of over ordering. I painted all six sides with barn paint before fixing, fixed it only with one nail across it's width and it's remained stable.

I resheathed my bin store with the same stuff and fixed it the same way although I used that green fence paint, and the short lengths on the doors and sides shrunk across their width without curling much, which proved that the single nail fixing is the way to do it. They shrunk more than 15 mm!! But no splits.
Malcolm
User avatar
Malc2098
Sequoia
 
Posts: 7209
Joined: 03 Jul 2016, 11:10
Location: Tiverton
Name: Malcolm

Re: Tez's Workshop Build

Postby tabs » 14 Jun 2019, 18:21

Thanks Malc. The sawmill wasn't littlesilverwood was it?
tabs
New Shoots
 
Posts: 146
Joined: 02 Dec 2014, 21:46
Location: Wigan
Name: Tez

Re: Tez's Workshop Build

Postby Malc2098 » 14 Jun 2019, 20:22

tabs wrote:Thanks Malc. The sawmill wasn't littlesilverwood was it?



No, mine was http://www.lutongreen.co.uk/supplies.html

He told me mine was Douglas Fir from Longleat.
Malcolm
User avatar
Malc2098
Sequoia
 
Posts: 7209
Joined: 03 Jul 2016, 11:10
Location: Tiverton
Name: Malcolm

Re: Tez's Workshop Build

Postby tabs » 18 Jun 2019, 17:58

Been trying to do some research on using unseasoned larch and have read that summer is not the time to be using it as it dries out too quickly. With me looking at using thinner featheredge this is a worry for me. I've seen sites that reckon about 5mm shrinkage is the norm and that you should fix it heart side out to reduce cupping.

Any thoughts folks?
tabs
New Shoots
 
Posts: 146
Joined: 02 Dec 2014, 21:46
Location: Wigan
Name: Tez

Previous

Return to Workshop Builds

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 5 guests