Sorry for the delay in responding chaps.
Roger, there is a small gap between the gutter drip board and the corner detail, so the water drips into the gutter. A bit too well, in fact. I filled my 100l water but in a matter of days with the rain recently, so i'm going to have to look at alternatives for getting rid of it. The water butt might be fine in the summer, but it will be constantly overflowing if its like this.
JM - I've got the floor painted too, second coat applied last night. Here's a pic.
Sadly, we had a bit of wind and rain last night and the tarp i tacked over the door came loose and the rain lightly marked the first few inches inside the door. Then one of the local cats decided to wander in whilst it was raining and proceeded to leave muck and pawprints in my drying paint! A bit miffed if i'm honest, but luckily the cat didn't seem to get far before hightailing it out of the shed. i dont have enough paint to do another full coat, so will just try and cover it up as best i can. I know there's no point in getting too precious about it.
So, i need some advice to resolve some cladding details as it's been a nagging issue for a while and not having a plan to make the exterior weather proof is worrying me. I have 3 interfaces to worry about:
1. corner details (cement board for bottom 2 rows, then waney edge larch for the rest)
2. door details (as above)
3. Window details (all timber)
The corner details i think are sussed, see below. Basically screwing a 75mm larch corner post (Dark brown) to some 38*25 battens(minty green) on the edge of the building, then butt the larch up to it. 75mm sounded like a lot but by the time you add the battens, 19mm larch boards and the overlap, i think it will look ok.
For the cement board I've got some 25mm pvc trim to cover it. it might look a bit rubbish but we'll see. If it does i can use it at the roof fascia board joints.
The door details are proving a bit more tricky. Originally i wanted the doors to open out the way for space reasons. However, If i have cladding totalling 75mm on the outside and i try to open the door out through that, it will foul somewhere on the doors path. The other option is to mount the doors on the cladding fixture, but that seems pointless as i have door frames in place for that. So, then i thought about having both doors open in the way, which wouldn't be terrible because they'll both open inwards to the left and towards a wall. Again, we'll have that 75mm cladding to go through before getting to the door, so it might look a bit sunken into the frame, but it will open inwards and i can open it >90 degrees i think.
One thing i can't really afford to do (and i'm kicking myself for only just realising this) is reduce the width of the doorways by too much. I've made both door 861mm wide for reasons lost to the world, but i wanted 850mm wide doors to fit modern mountain bike bars through. I'm sure Mike will be along to suggest fitting some drops to solve the problem
but i dont want to reduce the door width any more than i have to. I know if i open the doors inwards then i can add weatherproofing and door seals etc , but dont want these taking away too much usable width. If i open them out the way how do i mount the doors on the frame, but clear the cladding and get a door that can open at least 90 degrees!
I also need to consider what happens to water that runs down the door, because i have to shed that off over the front of the cladding.
A bit of a pickle all in all, but one i'm sure is resolvable. I am really annoyed that i'm this far in and details i know i should have resolved before i started are holding me back, but hey ho. I just have to find the best solution.
My first suggested solution for the cladding is shown in the pic above. I haven't figured out the doors yet, but once i know which way they are going to open i'll work out the details. So, as it stands in the pic above i've taken a 75mm larch post, flush mounted it to the edge of the doorway and planned to rebate 35-50 mm out of the larch post to accommodate butting the larch against it. I'll probably run the timber all the way to the bottom of the door frame (not as shown in the pic) and butt the cement board 2nd layer against it. I'd then create some sort of door threshold to cover the top of the bottom cement board plank. I'd mirror this on the upright on the opposite side. It looks a bit chunky but i dont think anything thinner would last as well?
I'm not even sure if this is making sense any more, so please let me know if i'm talking gibberish and i'll try to illustrate it better..
Cheers