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Mike's Workshop Build (Extension & slates)

Roll up, roll up. Here you will find everything from new workshop designs, through builds to completed workshop tours. All magnificently overseen by our own Mike G and his tremendously thorough 'Shed' design and generous advice.

Re: Mike's Workshop Build (blockwork started)

Postby 9fingers » 16 Aug 2014, 11:06

RogerS wrote:Anyone thinking of buying an SDS hammer drill, make sure you get one with three modes of working...not two. The key one is hammer only, IMO.



And a safety clutch ideally.

Bob
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (blockwork started)

Postby Deejay » 16 Aug 2014, 12:12

Afternoon all

Firband straps (I think that's what they're called..........

You're right Mike

http://www.tecties.co.uk/pdfs/straps_handgers_etc.pdf

Cheers

Dave
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (blockwork started)

Postby Mike G » 16 Aug 2014, 14:26

kirkpoore1 wrote:Mike:

I've got to ask: Are building permits and other paperwork there so onerous, expensive, and time-consuming?...


No, but in my case, time constraints were everything. The Planning process takes 2 months, and by then, I will be starting the major works on my house, so I needed to get the workshop up in a very short time after moving in here. Planning applications cost about £180. It is the Building Regs which are onerous. I couldn't have built this building under building regulations because it is just on a slab, and there are trees near by: only some plums and the hedge, but nonetheless, that would probably have meant the local authority insisting on 6 foot deep trench-fill foundations, or deeper, costing a small fortune.

There will be no compromise on headroom. I can have a building 4.5m (over 15 feet) high without planning permission, and part of the attraction of my design (to me) is that I have a relatively big building looking and feeling relatively small.
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (plinth complete)

Postby Mike G » 16 Aug 2014, 14:37

I spent the morning block laying. Some tips and hints:

-buy a rubber mallet, and use it, rather than the end of your trowel handle
-use sloppier mortar than you would normally
-do NOT cover the entire back of the block with mortar, as you'll never get the block properly in place. Put a bead around the top, sides, and a dab at the bottom.
-prop the string line temporarily up out of the way when putting your mortared-up block in place. It just gets in the way otherwise.
-put a brick on the straps, because every time you bump them, they will create a void in the mortar.
-accuracy in setting up the corners is paramount. Don't rush.

Anyway, here is the current state of play:

Image

Image

Image

Image
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (blockwork started)

Postby 9fingers » 16 Aug 2014, 14:39

Kirk, The reason that you see several uk workshop builders expressing concern on height is that the rules that allow building without planning permission say that if the building is close to the boundary, then the height is limited to 2.5 metres and also has flammability restrictions which usually rule out wooden construction.
This is why my shop is built from high density concrete blocks. The height rules were more relaxed then and I could go to 4m with a pitched roof or 3m with a flat roof.

Most modern UK homes are on relatively small plots with some garden areas not much bigger than the area of the house (unlike Mike's) and so a workshop of any useful floor area, is inevitably close to the boundary.

Bob
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (blockwork started)

Postby Mike G » 16 Aug 2014, 14:47

Rod wrote:Mike that wall makes me feel dizzy - I take it is rippled in plan?

No, but I am planning a semi-circular retaining wall in this bond. Nobody would ever know if I made a mistake!! :)

Rod wrote:How frost resistant are your bricks - I've seen lots of walls spall in the past especially garden ones where a proper coping hadn't been provided?
Rod


Fully tested, certificated, and compliant. They won't spall. I've used their half-brother, the Olde Essex brick from the same manufacturer, for over 20 years and in all sorts of locations (including path edging, which will suffer even if nowhere else does) and have never had a single brick spall.
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (plinth complete)

Postby Wizard9999 » 16 Aug 2014, 21:55

Looking very good Mike. Glad to see somebody thought to bring you a cuppa while you were working!

Away from home for long weekend so will only be ale to post my plans mid next week. Appreciate all the advice you have provided so far.

Terry.
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (plinth complete)

Postby Andyp » 18 Aug 2014, 20:22

I've only been away for 5 days and you've made some cracking progress.

The only question I have thus far is how deep is the hardcore under the slab?
I do not think therefore I do not am.

cheers
Andy
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (plinth complete)

Postby Mike G » 18 Aug 2014, 20:48

Thanks Andy.

Hardcore varied in depth, but was between 75 and 150mm, covered by a notional 50mm of sand blinding.
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (Framing started)

Postby Mike G » 19 Aug 2014, 21:15

Well, the lack of progress has been disappointing, but I have finally received this:

Image

I set up a bench of some of the roof timbers, and put up some supports, screwed the saw to the base, and screwed a stop in place:

Image

Then chopped up some 4x2s into the requisite stud lengths:

Image

I then set out a couple of plates, and got the Paslode nail gun out to start nailing it all together. Unfortunately, that was that. The nail gun is combuggerlypleted, and requires at least 10 or 12 new parts. Using a gun is so much more accurate than bashing in 4" nails with a hammer, so I will wait a day or two until the nailer is working, (unless anyone has an air-nailer or Paslode they could lend me!!)

Frustrated as hell.........
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (Framing started)

Postby DaveL » 19 Aug 2014, 21:34

Mike that is a bummer, unfortunately I only have a brad nailer, no use at all.
Regards,
Dave
My tool kit is almost complete, only a few more to get.
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (Framing started)

Postby TrimTheKing » 19 Aug 2014, 21:35

DaveL wrote:Mike that is a bummer, unfortunately I only have a brad nailer, no use at all.


Me too, sorry.
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (Framing started)

Postby Mike G » 19 Aug 2014, 21:50

Thanks anyway guys.
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (Framing started)

Postby berncarpenter » 19 Aug 2014, 22:45

Hi Mike
Sorry to here your Plaslode packed up , mines been nothing but trouble since i bought it in 07 . So have bought a Bostich air nailer second hand to try. Your welcome to borrow it . You will need a compressor
hose and a bayonet fitting for it Oh and nails the plaslode nails dont fit.

Cheers Bern :D
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (Framing started)

Postby Mike G » 19 Aug 2014, 23:10

Where are you, Bern?
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (Framing started)

Postby berncarpenter » 19 Aug 2014, 23:17

Probably miles away from you in South Wales but i can post it .

Cheers Bern :D
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (Framing started)

Postby Mike G » 19 Aug 2014, 23:26

I really appreciate the offer, but by the time it has got here I will have sorted out bits for the Paslode. Many thanks anyway. Appreciated.

How do you get on with it? What size compressor do you have?
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (Framing started)

Postby berncarpenter » 19 Aug 2014, 23:56

I havent used it yet Mike just a few test shots with 4'' nails and they were only driving in half way so sent it off to be overhauled and only just got it back. I have a small portable Bostich compressor not sure of the size its small enough to carry around and big enough to run 2 nail guns .Usually get a few cut roofs of a local builder as his boys cant cut a hip but havent had any this year yet .

Cheers Bern :D
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (Framing started)

Postby Peter Sefton » 20 Aug 2014, 05:40

I have a couple of Paslodes the IM350 and a smaller brad nailer. They both worked fine and did fire in a few thousand nails but after a couple of years kept failing. They are great when working but do become temperamental with age. I started spending a regular sum on servicing them but to no long term avail.
The workshop build looks great mike.
:text-bravo:
Peter Sefton

Practice makes perfect - but a good tip from one who knows saves timber, time and tools

http://www.peterseftonfurnitureschool.com

http://www.woodworkersworkshop.co.uk
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (Framing underway)

Postby Mike G » 20 Aug 2014, 19:44

I got a couple of hours on the workshop this evening, and built 2 of the frames:

Image

Image

The one standing up is there just to get it out of the way. The one on the ground is the far gable wall, with one of my hatches which serves the radial arm saw and router table.

This is the best framing timber I have ever used. Every single one straight and twist free, with minimal knots or shakes, and all of the same cross-sectional dimensions. I had to return the original delivery as they hadn't supplied treated timber.......yet more delay.
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (Framing underway)

Postby Peter Sefton » 20 Aug 2014, 21:26

Looks good, is the timber CLS? Thats what my workshop timber framing was made from and very clean too.
Cheers Peter
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http://www.peterseftonfurnitureschool.com

http://www.woodworkersworkshop.co.uk
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (Framing underway)

Postby Mike G » 20 Aug 2014, 21:29

Yes it is, Peter, although I just ordered sawn. CLS in my previous experience has been too dry, and has split readily when nailed or screwed. This stuff isn't like that.
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (Framing underway)

Postby 9fingers » 20 Aug 2014, 21:34

I use "regularised" CLS when I did the cut roof on my workshop and it was nice stuff to use. I ordered it all in one batch so I don't know if there is much sectional variation from one supplier to another.

Bob
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (Framing underway)

Postby Mike G » 20 Aug 2014, 21:45

Oh, and here's a niggle.........

This batch of OSB is 1220 x 2400. So imperial in one direction, metric in the other. Annoyingly, this means my stud centres are 610, rather than 600, which means stopping and thinking when marking up the plates, especially because of the 45mm stud widths and wanting the edge of the OSB to finish in the middle of a stud. Being as you mark the edge of a stud, not the middle, there is a whole lot of back-of-the-envelope arithmatic to do before you fire in the first nail.
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (Framing underway)

Postby Peter Sefton » 20 Aug 2014, 21:54

How does that match up to your plaster board or internal finish? It's such a pain when the standards jump all over the place.
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