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Mike's Workshop Build (Extension & slates)

Roll up, roll up. Here you will find everything from new workshop designs, through builds to completed workshop tours. All magnificently overseen by our own Mike G and his tremendously thorough 'Shed' design and generous advice.

Re: Mike's Workshop Build (brickwork finished)

Postby Mike G » 14 Aug 2014, 23:20

TheTiddles wrote:Are you still in the new (old) house that you designed and I saw in Suffolk years ago?

Aidan


No, I've moved to an old old house. A hovel, but with loads of potential, and a big garden.
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (brickwork finished)

Postby Mike G » 15 Aug 2014, 10:20

I did the straps this morning. I had intended to screw them to the concrete, but 1 minute of drilling which achieved a depth of about 10mm suggested that this was not going to work. That concrete is hard! So I screwed them to the bricks instead. I will then lay the blocks on top of them, fold them up and over the sole plate, and screw them in place.

Firband straps (I think that's what they're called..........rolls of galvanised mild steel perforated straps) at max 2000 centres, and adjacent to openings. As it happened, I cut one or two too many, so mine ended up at max 1800 centres.

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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (brickwork finished)

Postby 9fingers » 15 Aug 2014, 10:30

That looks much nicer strip than I've used in the past. Mine were ready formed as an L shape and the edges were rolled and so made them much more difficult to form a tight bend without trimming away the rolled edge, exposing the raw steel etc.

I was using them in the roof and hidden from view so it did not matter. Buying it on a roll as 'builders Meccano' seems much better.

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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (straps fitted)

Postby Mike G » 15 Aug 2014, 10:45

Sounds like you were using the 5mm straps typically sold 100x900 or so (ie c.20x5 in section, and L-shaped, with a leg 100 long, and another leg c.900 long). They're used, for instance, for holding a roof plate down onto blockwork in a house. This stuff is much less beefy, maybe 1mm thick, and sold in rolls. Mine is old stock: I've probably had it 15 years.
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (straps fitted)

Postby 9fingers » 15 Aug 2014, 10:53

Mike G wrote:Sounds like you were using the 5mm straps typically sold 100x900 or so (ie c.20x5 in section, and L-shaped, with a leg 100 long, and another leg c.900 long). They're used, for instance, for holding a roof plate down onto blockwork in a house. This stuff is much less beefy, maybe 1mm thick, and sold in rolls. Mine is old stock: I've probably had it 15 years.


Exactly that Mike and to be fair, wall plate location was my application.

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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (straps fitted)

Postby Robert » 15 Aug 2014, 11:41

What are you drilling the concrete with? (or not drilling rather)

The floor at my daughters seemed impenetrable with a hammer drill but my cheapo SDS drill went through it like a knife through butter.

Good to read the explanations along the way as well as see the progress pictures. looks good already!
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (straps fitted)

Postby Mike G » 15 Aug 2014, 12:11

Robert wrote:The floor at my daughters seemed impenetrable with a hammer drill but my cheapo SDS drill went through it like a knife through butter.


A hammer drill.

When it comes to the holes for the door bolts I'll be borrowing a friends SDS drill. I contemplated casting those into the base, incidentally, but it seemed to difficult an exercise, unfortunately.
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (straps fitted)

Postby Mike G » 15 Aug 2014, 20:01

I started the blockwork this evening. This was a first for me, laying blocks, and they're not that easy. Anyway, I got 5 corners in. Grey muck (mortar), as these blocks will never be seen.

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To show just how friable these things are, I obviously tapped this once too often!

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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (blockwork started)

Postby Rod » 15 Aug 2014, 20:15

Big blocks, do they saw easy?

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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (blockwork started)

Postby Mike G » 15 Aug 2014, 20:17

Yes, they're 600 long...........and yes, with an old wood saw.
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (blockwork started)

Postby 9fingers » 15 Aug 2014, 20:20

Just does not feel right (to me that is) the have building blocks that can be cut with handsaw eh?
And that crack as soon as you look at them.
I ended up using high density blocks for my shop (different construction to Mikes)

Those look to be about 3 brick long ~ 650 ish?

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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (brickwork finished)

Postby Wizard9999 » 15 Aug 2014, 21:56

Mike G wrote:
Headroom needn't be much of an issue, though, however low the building, because you needn't have any joists in the ceiling


OK, I've taken the bait, how do I build a roof with no joists?

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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (blockwork started)

Postby 9fingers » 15 Aug 2014, 22:00

Well caught Terry! We all want to know this one.......

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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (blockwork started)

Postby Mike G » 15 Aug 2014, 22:01

Joists are the horizontal element, and aren't necessary if you have a structural ridge beam (ridge purlin), or have a ring beam at wall plate level, or have traditional purlins.

Start a thread with your sketches, and I'll comment more fully there when I can see what you are aiming to achieve.

My workshop is going to have a bit of a combination, with a section of ridge purlin to enable me to leave out some of the ties (joists).
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (blockwork started)

Postby TrimTheKing » 15 Aug 2014, 22:14

Loving the brickwork Mike.

Personally I prefer the (I think it's called) Common Bond (or English Garden Wall, or Scottish Bond) over the Flemish, then English. I like the English but think it's a little overwhelming with the alternating header/stretcher rows and prefer the look of the Common/Garden Wall/Scottish alternative of a single header row per 4-6 stretchers.

Obviously this wouldn't work for your plinth, so I don't know why I'm writing it :) but just thought I would chip in.

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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (blockwork started)

Postby Wizard9999 » 15 Aug 2014, 22:15

9fingers wrote:Just does not feel right (to me that is) the have building blocks that can be cut with handsaw eh?
And that crack as soon as you look at them.
I ended up using high density blocks for my shop (different construction to Mikes)

Those look to be about 3 brick long ~ 650 ish?

Bob


So what density are those blocks Mike. I had assumed they would be high density, but they don't look it. Maybe that is why I couldn't find 50mm deep blocks? Does this mean it is the bricks that are the structural element here?

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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (blockwork started)

Postby Mike G » 15 Aug 2014, 23:28

Goodness knows what their density is, Terry. The weight of this building is negligible, and the blocks are perfectly strong enough in compression to take a shed. Half the load goes through the bricks, and half through the blocks. The blocks are weak when a point load or force is applied to their broad face, but when a uniformly distributed load is applied to the edge, they are plenty strong enough. Any block would be in this situation.
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (blockwork started)

Postby Mike G » 15 Aug 2014, 23:31

TrimTheKing wrote:Loving the brickwork Mike.

Personally I prefer the (I think it's called) Common Bond (or English Garden Wall, or Scottish Bond) over the Flemish, then English. I like the English but think it's a little overwhelming with the alternating header/stretcher rows and prefer the look of the Common/Garden Wall/Scottish alternative of a single header row per 4-6 stretchers.

Obviously this wouldn't work for your plinth, so I don't know why I'm writing it :) but just thought I would chip in.

Cheers
Mark


Thanks Mark. A friend of mine suggested I use English Garden Wall bond, but I pointed out that this would mean 2 rows of headers sandwiching one row of stretchers, or the other way around. That'd look pretty silly.
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (blockwork started)

Postby TrimTheKing » 15 Aug 2014, 23:32

Haha, yes indeed. I almost deleted my post before hitting Submit as I thought that myself, but then the sentiment is still valid so I went with it. :)

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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (blockwork started)

Postby Mike G » 15 Aug 2014, 23:44

Just as an aside, I have come up with a new bond ( a variation on English Garden Wall bond) I am going to try as a retaining wall:

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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (blockwork started)

Postby kirkpoore1 » 16 Aug 2014, 01:39

Mike:

I've got to ask: Are building permits and other paperwork there so onerous, expensive, and time-consuming? It seems like almost every shop building project I see posted on this list and it's predecessor results in a very small shop with very little headroom. At least from your pictures you don't have to build cheek-by-jowl with the neighbors like most folks have done.

The brick/block combo is different. I'll going to watch to see how this will come out and why you did it that way.

Kirk
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (blockwork started)

Postby old » 16 Aug 2014, 07:36

Toolstation sell a SDS hammer drill £49.95 item 17425 comes with chisels and drill bits a small cost in your project for a tool that will drill the concrete so as to make a proper job of the strapping (You would reject that work if it had been done by a contractor) and will be useful in your further renovations.
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (blockwork started)

Postby Rod » 16 Aug 2014, 09:32

Mike that wall makes me feel dizzy - I take it is rippled in plan?

How frost resistant are your bricks - I've seen lots of walls spall in the past especially garden ones where a proper coping hadn't been provided?

For Kirk - Perhaps we should start a separate thread about the foibles of our country ( leaving alone politics and other banned topics)?

Rod
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (blockwork started)

Postby RogerS » 16 Aug 2014, 09:49

Anyone thinking of buying an SDS hammer drill, make sure you get one with three modes of working...not two. The key one is hammer only, IMO.
If opportunity doesn't knock, build a door.
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Re: Mike's Workshop Build (blockwork started)

Postby DaveL » 16 Aug 2014, 10:45

Mike,
You should of said you needed an SDS drill, I have one you could of borrowed.
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