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Hully's Workshop Build - Summer Update

Roll up, roll up. Here you will find everything from new workshop designs, through builds to completed workshop tours. All magnificently overseen by our own Mike G and his tremendously thorough 'Shed' design and generous advice.

Re: Hully's Workshop Build - Ready to Clad

Postby Hully » 22 Mar 2017, 09:28

Cheers Guys.

I had thought about putting the membrane on the roof first but I'm working out of our garage right now so dont have an immediate need for another covered space. It would certainly be easier to work out of the workshop rather than walk back and forth to the garage...if the garage becomes too crowded with all the cladding I may put the membrane up.

I guess the issue with doing the membrane now is that I dont have the tiles and based on my primitive understanding I would need them to work out the batten gauge and I dont want to start punching holes in the membrane unnecessarily by putting battens up temporarily in order support my weight as I work my way up to the ridge with the membrane?

Though if I'm totally wrong please do let me know.
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Re: Hully's Workshop Build - Ready to Clad

Postby Jimmy Mack » 22 Mar 2017, 14:03

Hully wrote:Cheers Guys.

I had thought about putting the membrane on the roof first but I'm working out of our garage right now so dont have an immediate need for another covered space. It would certainly be easier to work out of the workshop rather than walk back and forth to the garage...if the garage becomes too crowded with all the cladding I may put the membrane up.

I guess the issue with doing the membrane now is that I dont have the tiles and based on my primitive understanding I would need them to work out the batten gauge and I dont want to start punching holes in the membrane unnecessarily by putting battens up temporarily in order support my weight as I work my way up to the ridge with the membrane?

Though if I'm totally wrong please do let me know.



I see where you're coming from about preserving the integrity of the membrane...if it helps I stapled mine up awhile before I got any batts up, it also helps to to keep things in order while you battern out. The staple holes being no larger than the breather perforations imo. You'll have (the suggestion of :D ) sag in-between the rafters so any moisture should run off in-between.

If you've got it covered (boom tish!) by the garage...stick to your plan


Looking forward to which the cladding,

Jim
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Re: Hully's Workshop Build - Ready to Clad

Postby Hully » 23 Mar 2017, 09:50

Jimmy Mack wrote:
I see where you're coming from about preserving the integrity of the membrane...if it helps I stapled mine up awhile before I got any batts up, it also helps to to keep things in order while you battern out. The staple holes being no larger than the breather perforations imo. You'll have (the suggestion of :D ) sag in-between the rafters so any moisture should run off in-between.

If you've got it covered (boom tish!) by the garage...stick to your plan


Looking forward to which the cladding,

Jim


Cheers Jim

Totally agree about using the staples to keep the membrane in order and also about not being too concerned about the holes they make. My concern was about nailing battens at random intervals to act as a ladder while I work my way up to the ridge with the membrane and then removing them and re-nailing them once I know the correct tile gauge. I'm probably being overly concerned...as usual :)

Had a call from the cladding suppliers yesterday to say its getting delivered today so I'll hopefully get cladding this weekend. If the weather improves I'll bring the Kapex outside so I dont have to trek backwards and forwards to the garage.

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Re: Hully's Workshop Build - Ready to Clad

Postby Hully » 24 Mar 2017, 10:22

Hi Gents

What are your suggestions for cladding field joints? I've read that the two boards should be joined over a stud/batten, that the ends of the two boards should be bevelled at 45's and that the ends should be primed and dry before being installed.

The first point makes total sense but I was planning on using a butt joint and installing the boards with wet primed ends. What have you guys done?

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Re: Hully's Workshop Build - Question on Cladding Field Cuts

Postby Mike G » 24 Mar 2017, 12:59

Are these timber feather-edge boards?

If so, then butt jointed is better than bevelled, and it is perfectly OK to install them with the ends still wet with paint. For a Rolls Royce job, cut a bit of 6" DPC say 3 inches wide and staple it (at its top edge) at the join location such that the bottom of it is just above the level of the boards which will cover it. Joins should of course be at a batten, which is why you use 50mm battens rather than 38. Don't forget to paint all round with a couple of coats before fixing in place, and then a final coat once in situ.
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Re: Hully's Workshop Build - Question on Cladding Field Cuts

Postby Hully » 24 Mar 2017, 16:18

Mike G wrote:Are these timber feather-edge boards?

If so, then butt jointed is better than bevelled, and it is perfectly OK to install them with the ends still wet with paint. For a Rolls Royce job, cut a bit of 6" DPC say 3 inches wide and staple it (at its top edge) at the join location such that the bottom of it is just above the level of the boards which will cover it. Joins should of course be at a batten, which is why you use 50mm battens rather than 38. Don't forget to paint all round with a couple of coats before fixing in place, and then a final coat once in situ.


Cheers for confirming Mike. Yep, they're Larch feather-edge. Good idea about the DPC, I have some knocking around so will do that.

Am I reading your last sentence right? I should paint each board on all sides twice (presumably 2 coats of primer) before putting them up? Is this to avoid warping?
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Re: Hully's Workshop Build - Question on Cladding Field Cuts

Postby Mike G » 24 Mar 2017, 18:39

Yes, back, front, top and bottom edges, and ends should all be painted. The back, top and ends get a mist coat and a single coat, and the exposed face and bottom edge get a further coat once fixed in place. This is because boards are essentially a rainscreen, and not a watertight layer. It is almost inevitable that water will penetrate somewhere, and so whatever protection the outside is afforded, so should any other surface. Further, as you say, any timber should be treated equally all round to prevent one side moving differentially from another.

You say your boards are larch. What finish are you proposing?
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Re: Hully's Workshop Build - Question on Cladding Field Cuts

Postby Hully » 25 Mar 2017, 09:43

Mike G wrote:Yes, back, front, top and bottom edges, and ends should all be painted. The back, top and ends get a mist coat and a single coat, and the exposed face and bottom edge get a further coat once fixed in place. This is because boards are essentially a rainscreen, and not a watertight layer. It is almost inevitable that water will penetrate somewhere, and so whatever protection the outside is afforded, so should any other surface. Further, as you say, any timber should be treated equally all round to prevent one side moving differentially from another.

You say your boards are larch. What finish are you proposing?


Thanks for confirming Mike. Bit of a ball ache (I was itching to put the boards up this weekend) but necessary...so looks like I'll be painting this weekend.

For the finish I was just thinking of using an acrylic primer and then acrylic exterior wood paint, something like this http://www.ronseal.co.uk/home/exterior- ... ood-paint/

I may use a knotting solution as well though I'm not too worried about knots bleeding through
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Re: Hully's Workshop Build - Question on Cladding Field Cuts

Postby Rod » 25 Mar 2017, 14:37

Larch - I thought you could leave untreated as it mellows to a very nice colour?

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Re: Hully's Workshop Build - Question on Cladding Field Cuts

Postby Mike G » 25 Mar 2017, 19:08

Hully wrote:.........Thanks for confirming Mike. Bit of a ball ache (I was itching to put the boards up this weekend) but necessary...so looks like I'll be painting this weekend.

For the finish I was just thinking of using an acrylic primer and then acrylic exterior wood paint, something like this http://www.ronseal.co.uk/home/exterior- ... d-paint....


I'm a huge fan of Bedec Barn Paint (and Multi-Surface Paint for planed timber). I've been using the stuff all afternoon, and if you have bought your paint yet, that is what I suggest you get. They don't have a huge range of colours yet, but what they have is nice, and the paint is of wonderful quality and performance.
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Re: Hully's Workshop Build - Question on Cladding Field Cuts

Postby Hully » 26 Mar 2017, 08:06

Mike G wrote:
I'm a huge fan of Bedec Barn Paint (and Multi-Surface Paint for planed timber). I've been using the stuff all afternoon, and if you have bought your paint yet, that is what I suggest you get. They don't have a huge range of colours yet, but what they have is nice, and the paint is of wonderful quality and performance.


Thanks very much for the recommendation Mike. I wasn't sure on the paint so thats a great help. I've not bought any paint yet, just the primer. The Mrs likes the light grey barn paint so I'll order some next week :D

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Re: Hully's Workshop Build - Question on Cladding Field Cuts

Postby Hully » 26 Mar 2017, 08:10

Rod wrote:Larch - I thought you could leave untreated as it mellows to a very nice colour?

Rod


Hi Rod

You're right, Larch can be left natural but we want to give the workshop some colour to look a bit like a New England House. We've watched too many episodes of This Old House :lol:

Cheers
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Re: Hully's Workshop Build - Question on Cladding Field Cuts

Postby Mike G » 26 Mar 2017, 08:15

Hully wrote:.....Thanks very much for the recommendation Mike. I wasn't sure on the paint so thats a great help. I've not bought any paint yet, just the primer. The Mrs likes the light grey barn paint so I'll order some next week :D

Cheers


You don't use primer with Barn Paint. You water down the first coat, quite a lot.
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Re: Hully's Workshop Build - Question on Cladding Field Cuts

Postby Hully » 21 Apr 2017, 10:19

Hi All

Bit of a delay updating the post so apologies. I've been busy cladding so thought I'd show the fruits of my labour. Its taking much longer than I expected (like everything on this build) but cladding by yourself can be a tricky and frustrating business. I'm about 2/3's of the way through so should hopefully be finished in a few more weeks.

Overall pretty happy with the results, its starting to look like a proper building now!!

Cheers
Hully

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Re: Hully's Workshop Build - Cladding Progress

Postby Rod » 21 Apr 2017, 10:29

Looking good - I know the weather has been good lately but I would have put the roof on first. Roof on and membrane (on the sides) gets it pretty weatherproof.

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Re: Hully's Workshop Build - Cladding Progress

Postby Malc2098 » 21 Apr 2017, 11:19

Yo, Hully!

Racing ahead of me! Looking good!
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Re: Hully's Workshop Build - Cladding Progress

Postby TrimTheKing » 21 Apr 2017, 12:01

Looks good.

Cheers
Mark


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Cheers
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Re: Hully's Workshop Build - Cladding Progress

Postby Dan0741 » 21 Apr 2017, 17:05

Looks lovely matey - Just a tip - my larch was pretty green and since it has been on its shrunk slightly, not much you can do i imagine, but you can make everything as 'snug' as possible to alleviate the effects. Love the colour. :D
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Re: Hully's Workshop Build - Cladding Progress

Postby ScotlandtheDave » 21 Apr 2017, 19:04

Dan0741 wrote:Looks lovely matey - Just a tip - my larch was pretty green and since it has been on its shrunk slightly, not much you can do i imagine, but you can make everything as 'snug' as possible to alleviate the effects. Love the colour. :D


Ditto, cuts that were 'press fit' on mine are now a couple of mm short, but nothing much you can do. It's a natural product at the end of the day! Looking good, looking forward to seeing the roof!
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Re: Hully's Workshop Build - Cladding Progress

Postby Hully » 23 Apr 2017, 08:28

Malc2098 wrote:Yo, Hully!

Racing ahead of me! Looking good!


Cheer Malc. Your build is coming on really nicely. Looks like a "proper job" mate!!
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Re: Hully's Workshop Build - Cladding Progress

Postby Hully » 23 Apr 2017, 08:33

Dan0741 wrote:Looks lovely matey - Just a tip - my larch was pretty green and since it has been on its shrunk slightly, not much you can do i imagine, but you can make everything as 'snug' as possible to alleviate the effects. Love the colour. :D


Cheers Dan. All the field joints are butted tight and the edge joints currently have around a 3mm gap to the trim boards but I assumed there would be some shrinkage over summer so planning on caulking and painting towards the back end of summer once everything has had time to settle.
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Re: Hully's Workshop Build - Cladding Progress

Postby Hully » 23 Apr 2017, 08:36

ScotlandtheDave wrote:
Dan0741 wrote:Looks lovely matey - Just a tip - my larch was pretty green and since it has been on its shrunk slightly, not much you can do i imagine, but you can make everything as 'snug' as possible to alleviate the effects. Love the colour. :D


Ditto, cuts that were 'press fit' on mine are now a couple of mm short, but nothing much you can do. It's a natural product at the end of the day! Looking good, looking forward to seeing the roof!


Thanks Dave. I'm looking forward to seeing how I do the roof as this has been the biggest question mark for me on the project :D

I was looking at the tiles spec last night and it looks like there will be nearly 2 tonnes on the roof which has made me think. I may change up the schedule a bit and insulate and board the walls with the OSB before putting the roof on so the structure is as strong and rigid as it can be...thats a lot of weight up there!!!
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Re: Hully's Workshop Build - Cladding Progress

Postby Hully » 23 Apr 2017, 08:37

TrimTheKing wrote:Looks good.

Cheers
Mark


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Cheers Mark
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Re: Hully's Workshop Build - Cladding Progress

Postby Hully » 07 May 2017, 18:02

Hi Guys

Progress has slowed due to social stuff and waiting on materials but I had a question I was hoping for some advice on.

I think I need to install some flashing above the window as the window trim extends out further than the bottom edge of the cladding that will be fitted above it. If I dont put any flashing there water will drip off the bottom edge of the cladding onto the window trim board and then back inside.

I'm thinking the flashing needs to be fixed behind the cladding, extending out past the bottom edge, and over the window trim, taking any water out over the window and also creating a drip edge.

Assuming I need to do this (I'm sure someone will tell me if I dont :D ) can anyone recommend a good material. I was looking at a 100mm wide sheet of lead but at £40 for 4 meters I'm wondering if there anything cheaper that will also do the job?

As an aside, I'm not intending on flashing the window opening before I put in the window (a la This Old House) as I've not seen anyone on the forum do it...is that also correct?

Should hopefully have some photos and an update for you next weekend.
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Re: Hully's Workshop Build - Window Flashing Question

Postby Mike G » 07 May 2017, 22:29

I use a pentice board rather than a flashing. This fixes neatly to the top of the vertical pieces either side of the window opening, if you cut a small slope to the top of them. The boarding is then cut around this. If you're clever with your battening, the pentice board can go all the way back to the face of the studwork/ breather membrane, making water ingress very unlikely.
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