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Re: Hully's Workshop Build

PostPosted: 30 Oct 2016, 18:04
by Hully
Dan0741 wrote:Nice work Hully, looking good. :D


Cheers Dan!!

Re: Hully's Workshop Build

PostPosted: 05 Nov 2016, 19:50
by Hully
Made a bit of progress today though nothing too exciting.

I've fitted all the galvanised straps to the slab and chiselled out sole plate in the respective places so the framing can sit flat on the sole plate over the straps. I've put in 3 per side...so one every 1500ish mm.

Image

Overall not bad progress for 2 hours work but I'm a bit p1$$ed off as I think I've gone through the DPM. My builder said the slab was over 100mm deep so I played it safe and used 80mm screws but I felt a bit of give while drilling holes so assume the slab isn't that deep near to the brick work, presumably because the DPM wasnt push right into the corner where the brick meets the foundation.

I guess the only thing I can do if I have done through the DPM is back out all the screws and stick some Silicone down the holes.

There are only 12 holes so its not a swiss cheese but not sure if I'm being overly worried about this so what do you guys think? Will it be a major issue if I have gone through the DPM and is it worth sticking some silicone down the holes.

Re: Hully's Workshop Build

PostPosted: 06 Nov 2016, 00:24
by Robert
More expert opinions may vary from my inexpert one but I wouldn't worry about the DPM - just carry on.

I doubt silicone would make any difference anyway.

Your drawing only shows 2 sides of your build. Are there any more windows than shown? I often wish I had more natural light in mine and I have windows on 2 sides.

Re: Hully's Workshop Build

PostPosted: 07 Nov 2016, 08:50
by Hully
Robert wrote:More expert opinions may vary from my inexpert one but I wouldn't worry about the DPM - just carry on.

I doubt silicone would make any difference anyway.

Your drawing only shows 2 sides of your build. Are there any more windows than shown? I often wish I had more natural light in mine and I have windows on 2 sides.


Hi Robert

Thanks for your thoughts. I'll definitely crack on regardless as I have no choice (can't take the concrete out and do it again :D ) but I may chuck some silicone down there anyway just to make myself feel marginally better.

I'm not putting any more windows in for two reasons really. The first is cost (especially velux's etc) but the main reason is that its a very shady area of the garden with large trees and bushes enclosing it in on 3 sides so windows on the other sides wouldn't be hugely beneficial. The front will get sun on it most of the day and there's a lot of glass on that side so it should be relatively bright, plus I'll be putting in lots of "zoned" lighting as well.

Cheers
Hully

Re: Hully's Workshop Build

PostPosted: 12 Dec 2016, 15:42
by Hully
Hi All

After a hiatus of a few weeks due to weather and socialising I've managed to break the back of the framing with the help of a mate on Sunday. As you can see, all the walls are up and the ridge beam is in so noggins, roof rafters and ceiling joists next, as well as an additional wall plate to tie the 4 sides into each other.

Image

Image

I'm then thinking the following:

- Put in temporary diagonal bracing on the inside
- Cover roof and walls with breather membrane
- Clad walls
- Tile roof
- Insulate walls
- Fit door and window
- Replace bracing with OSB
- Then onto plastering, flooring, sockets etc etc etc

The reason I'm thinking of using this approach is so that I keep the OSB and insulation as dry as possible over the next few months. What do you guys think? Any issues with my thinking?

Cheers
Hully

Re: Hully's Workshop Build - Framing

PostPosted: 12 Dec 2016, 16:22
by Mike G
Spot on, Hully. Makes sense to get yourself a dry working area ASAP at this time of year.

Re: Hully's Workshop Build - Framing

PostPosted: 12 Dec 2016, 18:26
by Malc2098
Looking good!

Re: Hully's Workshop Build - Framing

PostPosted: 12 Dec 2016, 18:29
by 9fingers
Mike G wrote:Spot on, Hully. Makes sense to get yourself a dry working area ASAP at this time of year.


I think I might also try and get some guttering up even if it is a temporary lash up. It will save mud and water splashes over your nice new external cladding and reduce having a muddy mess to work in.

Bob

Re: Hully's Workshop Build - Framing

PostPosted: 15 Dec 2016, 11:47
by Hully
Mike G wrote:Spot on, Hully. Makes sense to get yourself a dry working area ASAP at this time of year.


Thanks for the reassurance Mike, glad I'm thinking along the right lines

Re: Hully's Workshop Build - Framing

PostPosted: 15 Dec 2016, 11:49
by Hully
9fingers wrote:
Mike G wrote:Spot on, Hully. Makes sense to get yourself a dry working area ASAP at this time of year.


I think I might also try and get some guttering up even if it is a temporary lash up. It will save mud and water splashes over your nice new external cladding and reduce having a muddy mess to work in.

Bob


Good idea Bob, I'm sure I can bodge something together until I get onto trimming out the exterior properly :D

Re: Hully's Workshop Build - Framing

PostPosted: 15 Dec 2016, 11:49
by Hully
Malc2098 wrote:Looking good!


Cheers Malc

Re: Hully's Workshop Build - Framing

PostPosted: 20 Dec 2016, 18:47
by tabs
Looking nice. Did you say the windows will double or single glazed?

Did you use pressure treated timber? Just wondering as if the cladding is pressure treated and you have breather membrane is it wrth it?

Re: Hully's Workshop Build - Framing

PostPosted: 20 Dec 2016, 23:02
by TrimTheKing
Looking great Hully, any further progress…?

Cheers
Mark

Re: Hully's Workshop Build - Progress and a couple of questi

PostPosted: 31 Dec 2016, 10:51
by Hully
Hi Guys

Been making slow but steady progress over the last couple of weeks. The top plate in now on, temporary diagonal strapping on the inside is done and all the noggins have been fitted. I'll get a picture up later :-)

In the mean time I had a couple of questions I was hoping to get some advice on:

1) I was planning on putting the roof rafters and ceiling joists on 600mm centres but having read around 400mm seems to be far more common. As this is only a workshop I had assumed 600mm would be OK but now having second thoughts. What do you guys think?.
2) The insulation I'm planning on using comes in 400mm wide panels so rather than use 400mm centres on the wall I used 440mm so the gap between each joist would be 400mm. I'm now wondering if this is a balls up as I'm guessing the gap needs to be smaller to ensure a tight fit and good "seal". It's obviously too late to change the walls but just trying to work out if this is likely to be an issue or not.

Hope you all have a good New Years.
Cheers
Hully

Re: Hully's Workshop Build - Framing

PostPosted: 31 Dec 2016, 10:54
by Hully
tabs wrote:Looking nice. Did you say the windows will double or single glazed?

Did you use pressure treated timber? Just wondering as if the cladding is pressure treated and you have breather membrane is it wrth it?


Cheers Tabs. Window and door will both be double glazed.

All the framing is PT. Cladding will be Larch which will then be painted.

On whether its worth it or not that's a good question. The cost difference is pretty negligible and I like play on the safe side so for me it was a no brainer but you could well argue it might be overkill.

Cheers
Hully

Re: Hully's Workshop Build - Framing

PostPosted: 31 Dec 2016, 10:56
by Hully
TrimTheKing wrote:Looking great Hully, any further progress…?

Cheers
Mark


Cheers Mark.

Christmas (and the run up to it with parties etc) has slowed me down but I've made some progress. I now don't go back to work until 9th Jan so hoping to get the roof and ceiling all framed up in that week ready for cladding in January. Lets hope the weather holds :-)

Cheers
Hully

Re: Hully's Workshop Build - Progress and a couple of questi

PostPosted: 31 Dec 2016, 12:03
by 9fingers
I think I'd stick to the same spacing as your walls for the rafters so the load is passed directly down the verticals. With a building this size, it won't take much more timber compared to 600 centres.

Possibly worth a quick sanity check on where the joints in your roof decking will fall and making a few fine adjustments to spacing if needed to reduce waste.

refining the fit of insulation can be done with offcuts or foam depending on which insulation type you are using.

Bob

Re: Hully's Workshop Build - Progress and a couple of questi

PostPosted: 31 Dec 2016, 16:46
by Dan0741
Hully, I cant offer expert advice but I was quite liberal with the foaming gun after fitting my celotex, it hides a multitude of sins and probably makes for a more effective seal however well the framing and insulation is done. Its warm as toast now and seems to retain heat really well. You are making really good progress given the time of year, it doesn't make life easy! :D

Re: Hully's Workshop Build - Progress and a couple of questi

PostPosted: 01 Jan 2017, 18:57
by Mike G
Hully wrote:.......1) I was planning on putting the roof rafters and ceiling joists on 600mm centres but having read around 400mm seems to be far more common. As this is only a workshop I had assumed 600mm would be OK but now having second thoughts. What do you guys think?.

Unless you are on the limits of your roof's structure, (which is only likely if you are using a tiled roof) then 600 is fine for a workshop. I'm pretty sure that's what mine is.

2) The insulation I'm planning on using comes in 400mm wide panels so rather than use 400mm centres on the wall I used 440mm so the gap between each joist would be 400mm. I'm now wondering if this is a balls up as I'm guessing the gap needs to be smaller to ensure a tight fit and good "seal". It's obviously too late to change the walls but just trying to work out if this is likely to be an issue or not.


What sort of insulation are you using?

Your bigger problem is going to be cutting all the sheathing board to suit the odd centres: more work and more expensive wastage than in trimming a bit of insulation.

Re: Hully's Workshop Build - Progress and a couple of questi

PostPosted: 01 Jan 2017, 19:21
by Hully
9fingers wrote:I think I'd stick to the same spacing as your walls for the rafters so the load is passed directly down the verticals. With a building this size, it won't take much more timber compared to 600 centres.

Possibly worth a quick sanity check on where the joints in your roof decking will fall and making a few fine adjustments to spacing if needed to reduce waste.

refining the fit of insulation can be done with offcuts or foam depending on which insulation type you are using.

Bob


Cheers Bob. Definitely seems sensible to stick to 400mm on the rafters to transfer the load.

Re: Hully's Workshop Build - Progress and a couple of questi

PostPosted: 01 Jan 2017, 19:24
by Mike G
Hully wrote:.........Cheers Bob. Definitely seems sensible to stick to 400mm on the rafters to transfer the load.


If you are going to have a different rafter spacing or placing compared with your studs, then you need a doubled-up top plate. In other words, each rafter should be directly above each stud, and if they aren't, then you need a double top plate.

Re: Hully's Workshop Build - Progress and a couple of questi

PostPosted: 01 Jan 2017, 19:25
by Hully
Dan0741 wrote:Hully, I cant offer expert advice but I was quite liberal with the foaming gun after fitting my celotex, it hides a multitude of sins and probably makes for a more effective seal however well the framing and insulation is done. Its warm as toast now and seems to retain heat really well. You are making really good progress given the time of year, it doesn't make life easy! :D


Hi Dan, it was a very neat job you did with the foam gun!! I'm planning on using Rockwool so not sure foam is a good idea. I think it'll need to be offcuts as Bob suggested. I watched a Rockwool installation video today and they weren't stuffing it in the spacing so 400mm "cavities" might be OK. I guess there'll need to be some trial and error.

Weather so far hasn't been too bad to keep everything crossed for me :-)

Re: Hully's Workshop Build - Progress and a couple of questi

PostPosted: 01 Jan 2017, 19:44
by Hully
Mike G wrote:
Hully wrote:.......1) I was planning on putting the roof rafters and ceiling joists on 600mm centres but having read around 400mm seems to be far more common. As this is only a workshop I had assumed 600mm would be OK but now having second thoughts. What do you guys think?.

Unless you are on the limits of your roof's structure, (which is only likely if you are using a tiled roof) then 600 is fine for a workshop. I'm pretty sure that's what mine is.

2) The insulation I'm planning on using comes in 400mm wide panels so rather than use 400mm centres on the wall I used 440mm so the gap between each joist would be 400mm. I'm now wondering if this is a balls up as I'm guessing the gap needs to be smaller to ensure a tight fit and good "seal". It's obviously too late to change the walls but just trying to work out if this is likely to be an issue or not.


What sort of insulation are you using?

Your bigger problem is going to be cutting all the sheathing board to suit the odd centres: more work and more expensive wastage than in trimming a bit of insulation.


Hi Mike

Thanks for the advice. The Plan is to use tiles so 400mm centre's seems sensible. I saw your comment below about the double header. Overall the rafters should sit over the studs but on the front wall I have the door and window so would need the double header there presumably.

This is what I have so far which I'm pretty sure is what would be classed as a double header? Does this cover it?

Image

The Insulation I'm planning on using is Rockwool. Its a very good point about sheathing wastage...never mind, I'lll remember for the next build :D

I managed to get the ceiling joists up today, terrible photo but it was raining so couldnt be bothered to get wet. Will take a better one once some of the rafters are up...hopefully tomorrow.

Image

Cheers
Hully

Re: Hully's Workshop Build - Progress and a couple of questi

PostPosted: 04 Jan 2017, 17:36
by chataigner
Looking good ! :text-bravo:

Re: Hully's Workshop Build - Progress and a couple of questi

PostPosted: 10 Jan 2017, 11:18
by Hully
Progress ground to a halt last week as I ran out of fixings and the ones ordered before Christmas still haven't been delivered meaning I lost 2 days which was pretty frustrating.

But I did manage to make some progress. The rafters on the gable ends are up, as are the stud extensions on the gable ends. Half the rafters are also up and temporarily secured in place. The rest of the rafters are cut ready to go so it should be a quick job to finish off...hopefully. Here is what it looks like at the moment.

Image

I'm hoping to get the framing finished this month, so thats the remaining rafters, blocking, final noggins and reinforcing the ceiling joists.

I'll then wrap the building in preparation for the cladding and tiling. I'm thinking of using this breathable membrane to wrap both the walls and roof. Does anyone see an issue with using this on both as its only advertised for the roof?

https://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/pro ... -x-1m.html

Cheers
Hully