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Mark's Workshop/Garage

Roll up, roll up. Here you will find everything from new workshop designs, through builds to completed workshop tours. All magnificently overseen by our own Mike G and his tremendously thorough 'Shed' design and generous advice.

Re: Mark's Workshop/Garage

Postby spearos » 05 Apr 2017, 17:27

Mike G wrote:
The gable on your bigger roof is effectively a truss using the wall plate as the bottom chord, the other truss on this roof (at the join to the smaller part of the building) has a meaty bottom chord (principle tie?) that as well as spanning the 'opening' into the smaller part of the building it also provides a 'base' for the more traditional 'king post' that supports the ridge on the smaller roof.

Correct


Woohoo! :lol: Look at me using roofing jargon and almost sounding like I have half a clue! :lol:


Mike G wrote:
*Turns out I was wrong, and I do have a continuous ridge beam, but it is only a structural ridge beam across the gap (where there are no ties), and thus doesn't need to be beefy.


Understood.

What I was trying to eventually get at, where I was going with this (admittedly I am responsible for meandering off) is that for my structural ridge beam (for a vaulted ceiling) can my gable design be similar to the gable under your big roof - obviously with timber sizes changed where necessary?
Last edited by spearos on 05 Apr 2017, 17:31, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Mark's Workshop/Garage

Postby spearos » 05 Apr 2017, 17:30

Dan0741 wrote:Much of it was luck, but I was careful. Mainly because i found out early its easier to do things accurately once rather than the alternative. :D


Don't be so modest Dan! You've reminded me of a motivational poster thingy, I'll add it when I remember/find it....
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Re: Mark's Workshop/Garage

Postby Mike G » 05 Apr 2017, 20:15

spearos wrote:.......What I was trying to eventually get at, where I was going with this (admittedly I am responsible for meandering off) is that for my structural ridge beam (for a vaulted ceiling) can my gable design be similar to the gable under your big roof - obviously with timber sizes changed where necessary?


Sort of. ;) :lol:

Given the loadings on a ridge beam are almost entirely vertical, (if the walls were forced apart by the un-tied rafters the ridge beam would be dragged directly downwards) one has to resist that vertical force. Now, this is most easily done with a post. However, if we are relying on the rafters at the gable (as we would be at the gable above the lintel over the big door opening) to hold the ridge beam up, we need a suitable junction between the rafters and the ridge such that an elephant sitting on the ridge board at that end wouldn't push the ridge down out of connection with the rafter ends. There are lots of ways to achieve this. One of them is to have an upside-down birdsmouth, so that the ridge beam physically sits on part of the rafter. Unfortunately, given your timber sizes, this wont work.

What I suggest is this:

Image

Bolt a piece of 195x45 hard up underneath the ridge beam at the gable rafter location.

Further, as you don't want to be throwing load onto the lintel below, the end rafters should be doubled up, and nailed together (alternately top and bottom edge, max 500 C's). This is going to complicate your OSB lining somewhat.

The other end can be dealt with as per mine, with a post under the ridge beam. This should be directly above a stud in the wall (in other words, when you set your wall out, you need to put a stud exactly in the centre). The rafter only need be a single pair, not doubled.
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Re: Mark's Workshop/Garage

Postby spearos » 06 Apr 2017, 21:41

Thanks Mike, thanks for the thorough, concise reply - very helpful indeed. :D
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Re: Mark's Workshop/Garage

Postby spearos » 11 Apr 2017, 10:43

Ok then ladies and gentlemen, more advice needed... please!

I want to finalise dimensions in order to make drawings and submit my planning application however there is (hopefully) one last grey area - the verge and eaves details.

Verges
I'm fairly confident with my proposed construction/dimensions of these, but would appreciate some feedback to ease my mind!
End rafters sitting flush with wall frame, battens & barge boards on outside face of rafters to give 50mm overhang from cladding (FE boards). Onduline verge pieces to finish.

Eaves
Problem here is keeping the building over 1m from boundary both sides (mentioned earlier in thread). Yes I could make building slightly narrower but I'd rather not.This leaves me with ~150mm either side.

Despite all the answers from Google I have to presume the 1m from boundary to be exempt from building regs covers the most 'sticky out' part of the building (including gutters), so one option would be flush eaves? I'm thinking with a fascia that overlaps the top FE board slightly?
Other option is a small overhang and perhaps mini guttering?

Thoughts please?
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Re: Mark's Workshop/Garage

Postby spearos » 11 Apr 2017, 10:51

spearos wrote:
Dan0741 wrote:Much of it was luck, but I was careful. Mainly because i found out early its easier to do things accurately once rather than the alternative. :D


Don't be so modest Dan! You've reminded me of a motivational poster thingy, I'll add it when I remember/find it....


Here it is Dan -

Image


The standard of your build is certainly not down to luck! :text-bravo:
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Re: Mark's Workshop/Garage

Postby 9fingers » 11 Apr 2017, 11:59

I'd like to think that the planning dept would not be so picky regarding a few extra mm due to guttering.
In fact they are possibly not even looking at mundane issues such as surface water drainage?
The height of the gutter is likely to be much higher that the top of any fence and if you need to argue, the distance between the edge of a gutter and the top edge of the fence will be greater than the 1m.

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Re: Mark's Workshop/Garage

Postby Mike G » 11 Apr 2017, 14:20

That's the pragmatic answer, Bob, until there is a dispute. Then they get the micrometers out, and they measure horizontal distance to the boundary, which is taken as an infinite vertical "wall" of thickness zero.
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Re: Mark's Workshop/Garage

Postby Dan0741 » 11 Apr 2017, 17:55

Very kind :D

But the wind blowing your way helps too. (so to speak :shock: )
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Re: Mark's Workshop/Garage

Postby spearos » 05 May 2017, 17:03

Little, well big update, update - planning application submitted last night! :shock:

Hopefully I've done my homework and have done a good job... Time will tell...
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Re: Mark's Workshop/Garage

Postby 9fingers » 05 May 2017, 17:10

Good Luck. Time to chat up the neighbours!
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Re: Mark's Workshop/Garage

Postby Malc2098 » 05 May 2017, 17:12

Good Luck!!
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Re: Mark's Workshop/Garage

Postby Mike G » 06 May 2017, 07:51

Best of luck.
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Re: Mark's Workshop/Garage

Postby TrimTheKing » 06 May 2017, 15:47

Good luck matey.

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Re: Mark's Workshop/Garage

Postby Andyp » 06 May 2017, 20:13

How long will you have to wait fir the all clear?
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Re: Mark's Workshop/Garage

Postby spearos » 07 May 2017, 21:07

Thanks everyone! Really hope I don't get any issues!

Andyp wrote:How long will you have to wait fir the all clear?


I believe the council aims to reach a decision within 8 weeks. I also think that if the neighbours respond promptly and favourable, this can speed things up.
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Re: Mark's Workshop/Garage

Postby Malc2098 » 07 May 2017, 21:15

I'm not sure of the exact process, but the public notices have to be published for a fixed time.

So, mine was 8 weeks exactly.
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Re: Mark's Workshop/Garage

Postby Mike G » 07 May 2017, 22:32

Some councils won't actually start the clock ticking for a week or more, a period they use to examine the application and see if they can find something wrong.
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Re: Mark's Workshop/Garage

Postby spearos » 01 Sep 2017, 22:17

Hello everyone! Remember me? :lol: Hope you're all well.

An update well over due I think!

Planning permission granted! :eusa-dance: I was actually surprised to receive approval in early July. It was all straight forward with only one issue. The block plan that I hand edited for my proposal wasn't to scale - I didn't follow the instructions for printing. Easily put right though.
In my experience I echo what others have said about anyone thinking about applying for planning permission - go for it, it's not that difficult and there's loads of usual info/help out there.

Progress since though has been slower than I had hoped! Young kids, holidays, finding a life balance all limiting the amount of time I've had to crack on. However things are moving along, I have constructed a temporary 'shed', removed old garage and fitted some gates. The thing I underestimated though was how much stuff I had in the old concrete garage, and the time it took to sort through it all!
A few pics :

Now you see it...

Image

Now you don't!..

Image

One little accident resulted in a bruise covering almost my entire forearm :o

Image

Temporary shed approximately 1.8m x 3.6m built for ~£200. Looks nice doesn't it? ;) :lol:

Image

All the 'essentials' crammed in!

Image

Next up, all that concrete! Yes, it's all coming up! There are reasons behind this decision, lots of reasons which I will save for another day - early night needed if I am to stand any chance of getting it all up in one weekend!...
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Re: Mark's Workshop/Garage

Postby Mike G » 02 Sep 2017, 07:08

A workshop in a weekend!! This should be worth watching......

Good luck!
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Re: Mark's Workshop/Garage

Postby 9fingers » 02 Sep 2017, 08:01

Mike G wrote:A workshop in a weekend!! This should be worth watching......

Good luck!


I think it is "just" the concrete that is coming up in a weekend Mike :D

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Re: Mark's Workshop/Garage

Postby Andyp » 02 Sep 2017, 10:10

That looks like back breaking work to me Mark. Shame it has to come up as it looks in good nick from here. Hope you have some heavy machinery to help. Good luck.
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Re: Mark's Workshop/Garage

Postby spearos » 04 Sep 2017, 21:18

Andyp wrote:That looks like back breaking work to me Mark. Shame it has to come up as it looks in good nick from here. Hope you have some heavy machinery to help. Good luck.


Indeed, I had a heavy breaker that weighed ~30kg and that was the hardest part - lugging that thing around! Although it did do the job, made light work of breaking up the concrete. Rain stopped play just after lunch on Sunday with the job pretty much done. Among other things (is it just me or was it standard practice years ago to discard all manner of things under concrete?!) I discovered that the concrete path that goes up the garden actually continues under the concrete. This stills needs removing but it is wafer thin, incredibly weak and shouldn't take long to clear.

There were many reasons for removing this concrete, firstly it was in the wrong place! It had no DPM! It was quite a bit higher than ground level, adding unnecessary height to any structure if I were to build off it. It was in poor condition - it was 'laid' in three sections, with the section nearest in the photo being by far the best bit - the two sections beyond were really poor. The better section had a sub base (the dark stone), however the two other sections had no sub base, just a thin covering of ballast and crumbly, sandy concrete of varying thickness.

One of the thinner parts of the rough sections, approximately 2 inches thick. Notice the absence of any sub base and the clay soil immediately under the concrete!

Image

End of day one

Image

At this point the rain become too much on day two. One BIG pile of rubble! You can clearly see the path that still needs removing. Also on the right, a couple of large concrete posts/beams that were unearthed!

Image
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Re: Mark's Workshop/Garage

Postby timothyedoran » 05 Sep 2017, 07:08

Wow that looks a mission

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Re: Mark's Workshop/Garage

Postby 9fingers » 05 Sep 2017, 08:12

It is normally reckoned that a third of the effort/cost is in the ground works with the least to see for it!

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