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wizer's Workshop

Roll up, roll up. Here you will find everything from new workshop designs, through builds to completed workshop tours. All magnificently overseen by our own Mike G and his tremendously thorough 'Shed' design and generous advice.

Re: wizer's Workshop

Postby StevieB » 03 Oct 2017, 12:32

Noggins for the walls, ebay for the windows!

Are you studs on 400 or 600 centres? Makes fixing internal sheeting so much easier (note 8x4 is not 2400 x 1200 - DAMHIKT!)

If you are running electrics internal to the wall (ie not surface mounted) think about drilling holes for cable runs in hte corner posts before you erect them eg 300mm up on each stud - makes routing cables so much easier.

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Re: wizer's Workshop

Postby Tusses » 03 Oct 2017, 12:51

StevieB wrote:Are you studs on 400 or 600 centres? Makes fixing internal sheeting so much easier (note 8x4 is not 2400 x 1200 - DAMHIKT!)

Steve


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Re: wizer's Workshop

Postby wizer » 03 Oct 2017, 13:20

Good point on the door header Bob. Will have to think about how to do that. Messes me up a bit

I've been on the hunt for the 'right' 2nd hand windows for a while and nothing has really presented itself. I've got a good quote from a company and I think that's the way to go.

Steve, yes 400 centres. I will of course be using noggins. Internal and external sheathing will be OSB. I managed to get 50 sheets for dead cheap. Used as temp floor covering. I'll need to go out and double check their dims.
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Re: wizer's Workshop

Postby 9fingers » 03 Oct 2017, 13:31

wizer wrote:Good point on the door header Bob. Will have to think about how to do that. Messes me up a bit


You might get away without it Tom. Your roof timber above looks like a twin 8x2 above and if the double verticals either side of the doorway continue up to the roof joist, the roof load will travel down to the base.

With a UPVC door, you want that floating and not carrying any load so provided the timber over the door is "hung" off the roof rather than resting on the door frame, you should be OK.

I hope that reads OK

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Re: wizer's Workshop

Postby wizer » 03 Oct 2017, 13:37

Makes sense, thanks Bob
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Re: wizer's Workshop

Postby 9fingers » 03 Oct 2017, 13:47

wizer wrote:Makes sense, thanks Bob



Good!
Basically your doorway aperture goes up the the roof joists and the gap is filled with the door and a filler panel above.

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Re: wizer's Workshop

Postby wizer » 06 Oct 2017, 16:55

Right, not got anywhere with my drawings this week.

Need to start thinking about brick laying :? Any tips? Got the bricks already. Need to pick up some basic tools. I'm guessing I start at the corners and work in, eventually ending up with a half brick somewhere.
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Re: wizer's Workshop

Postby Mike G » 06 Oct 2017, 18:24

9fingers wrote:First thing to leap out at me is the lack of a double header over the double doorway?........
Bob


It's not critical, Bob, although it would help dampen down vibrations from a big door closing sharply. The roof joist spans, so the only load on the door head is the little panel's self-weight. Certainly I would be doubling up, but it doesn't necessarily need a lintel.
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Re: wizer's Workshop

Postby Mike G » 06 Oct 2017, 18:27

wizer wrote:Right, not got anywhere with my drawings this week.

Need to start thinking about brick laying :? Any tips? Got the bricks already. Need to pick up some basic tools. I'm guessing I start at the corners and work in, eventually ending up with a half brick somewhere.


Before you start you "gauge" the bricks, laying them out dry along the edges to see how the bond works. You can do that in Sketchup, of course. Ending up with a half in a run of stretcher-bond brickwork is the one thing you want to avoid. It will completely break the bond.
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Re: wizer's Workshop

Postby 9fingers » 06 Oct 2017, 19:28

With walls this long, you should be able to win or lose half a brick simply by fiddling with the joint width.
A stretcher and 10mm mortar joint should work out at 225mm but check with your bricks.

e.g. 50 stretchers and 49 x 10mm joints will be 11.24m
Add 1 mm to each joint and it will be 11.289 m
lose 1 mm on each joint and it will be 11.191m which is 98 mm difference almost half a brick

You can start one corner with a stretcher and the next corner along with a header which gives half brick difference on the length corner to corner

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Re: wizer's Workshop

Postby Andyp » 07 Oct 2017, 07:44

I can only imagine how easy it is to adjust the mortar width by a consistent 1mm over a 11 metres. :)
Good luck Tom.
I do not think therefore I do not am.

cheers
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Re: wizer's Workshop

Postby Rod » 07 Oct 2017, 10:42

If you are really obsessive you could mark it out on a rod - there’s a plastic gizmo you can buy for setting out the verticals but again a marked up piece of wood would do.
To be honest it’s only a shed and nobody would notice except yourself.

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Re: wizer's Workshop

Postby wizer » 14 Oct 2017, 17:06

Struck the forms today. It didn't crumble, so there's that.

Laid out the first course of bricks. Looks like it shouldn't be too much mucking about.

Image

Presumably I should trim the excess DPM to below FGL?

Image

I want hard standing to wrap around the workshop for al fresco working. Not decided wether to pour another slab or lay pavers yet. :eusa-think:


Thoughts have now turned back to the drawings, I keep putting them down and am getting no where.

Not sure what to do with the ends? The roof shouldn't finish flush, how should I build that out so the roof over hangs a bit?

Image
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Re: wizer's Workshop

Postby wizer » 14 Oct 2017, 17:15

Is it this?

Image
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Re: wizer's Workshop

Postby Malc2098 » 14 Oct 2017, 17:57

Looks OK to me.

Looks like you're getting the hang of Sketchup!
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Re: wizer's Workshop

Postby 9fingers » 14 Oct 2017, 18:03

wizer wrote:Is it this?

Image


Neither!
That end rafter will just fall off over time!
Get rid of the double rafter and set a single one back from the end wall by about 200 mm or so. Increase the length of your ladders to about 400mm and the width to the same as the rafters so they straddle the end wall, then add a fascia board say 25mm on the end of the ladders to make your over hang of about 200mm or what ever you want there.
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Re: wizer's Workshop

Postby 9fingers » 14 Oct 2017, 18:08

wizer wrote:Struck the forms today. It didn't crumble, so there's that.

Laid out the first course of bricks. Looks like it shouldn't be too much mucking about.

Image





Watch out for your brick bond along the back where you have a half brick. You run the risk of an irish bond (joints in line!) on the next course.
Rather than a whole brick and a half brick next to it, use 2x 3/4 bricks.

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Re: wizer's Workshop

Postby TrimTheKing » 15 Oct 2017, 21:48

I wouldn't even do that. Why not remove the overhanging brick from the front, and place a full bring along the long side. That would bring the long side into correct bond and then just either modify the width of the door to fit to the brick spacing or slightly widen the width of the perps to make it fit...

Cheers
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Re: wizer's Workshop

Postby wizer » 25 Oct 2017, 13:19

Bonjour

I am trying to work out how I start the plinth. On Mike's drawing he's specified galv strap 'screwed & plugged to the slab under the plinth'. So am I just using these?

https://www.screwfix.com/p/fischer-nylo ... pack/28374

What spacing on the galv strap along the walls? Every 600mm?


Back to brick laying. Can anyone suggest a mix I should use? We have a mini-mixer, so I'll be using that.

How exactly do I start. I get the general gist of brick laying. But do I set a brick at each corner and let them set before I carry on? This would give me something to set my strings on?

Confused of Crowborough :? :oops:
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Re: wizer's Workshop

Postby Malc2098 » 25 Oct 2017, 13:39

W

As a DIYer and not having laid a brick for 40 years, and then not very well, I looked online for videos and advice. there are many and this is just one of them.

https://www.homebase.co.uk/ideas-advice/diy/walls/how-to-lay-a-brick-wall

I found the making and mixing of mortar a bit of a dark art and I'm sure there are many here to give advice on that.

Good luck.
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Re: wizer's Workshop

Postby Mike G » 25 Oct 2017, 14:28

That screw & plug is fine, although most people just have a box of red and/ or brown plugs, and use their own screws. The straps should be at max 2m centres, and either side of the door . Screw the straps down flat onto the concrete, lay your bricks up over them, then when you need them fold the strap up.

Laying bricks is all about the mortar. If you can get some nice mortar, which allows you to set the brick in exactly the right place with the chance of some later adjustment, then you're doing OK. Don't forget your plasticiser! The corners are built using only a spirit level and a tape measure. Once they have gone off for an hour or two they are then strong enough to string a line between, and that usually shows up how inaccurately you built the corners!

Here's a corner being built:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c1NALOkrxsQ
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Re: wizer's Workshop

Postby wizer » 25 Oct 2017, 14:40

Makes sense, thanks.

So am I buying a mortar mix or mixing it myself?

*EDIT* Actually scrub that, I have a ton of sand left over fromt the slab, so I'll be mixing my own.

What are the ratios?
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Re: wizer's Workshop

Postby wizer » 25 Oct 2017, 14:52

Mike G wrote:
Here's a corner being built:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c1NALOkrxsQ


Doesn't matter how many of those videos I watch, I'm sure it's not that simple!!! :o :D
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Re: wizer's Workshop

Postby Rod » 25 Oct 2017, 16:48

I went on an evening class bricklaying course, which sadly only lasted one evening due to lack of numbers but learned enough to do a reasonable job.
Lots of ways of “cheating” using marked up rods and even a length of timber cut to the bed thickness to help get your eye in.

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Re: wizer's Workshop

Postby 9fingers » 25 Oct 2017, 17:02

You can also practice using a mortar with no cement. Just sand, water and a bit of plasticiser.
It will behave almost the same are real mortar but you can take it down, brush off the bricks and set them aside to dry off. Remember that that sand already has plasticiser in it when you make real mortar with it.

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