It is currently 28 Mar 2024, 10:32

Pete's Workshop Build

Roll up, roll up. Here you will find everything from new workshop designs, through builds to completed workshop tours. All magnificently overseen by our own Mike G and his tremendously thorough 'Shed' design and generous advice.

Re: Pete's Workshop Build

Postby TrimTheKing » 04 Sep 2020, 09:47

Mike G wrote:Yep, but it's right. I've used thinner than that. The first coat really penetrates the surface of the wood, sealing it up so that the subsequent coats aren't soaked up so readily.


Sorry Mike I wasn't suggesting it was wrong, more surprised that he's having to use so much paint given the thinned primer coat. How much would be required if the thinner primer coat wasn't going on... :eusa-think:
Cheers
Mark
TrimTheKing
Site Admin
 
Posts: 7552
Joined: 16 Jun 2014, 13:27
Location: Grappenhall, Cheshire
Name: Mark

Re: Pete's Workshop Build

Postby Mike G » 04 Sep 2020, 10:30

Yeah, Bedec costs a lot, and you need lots of it. I wish it weren't so......
User avatar
Mike G
Sequoia
 
Posts: 9833
Joined: 30 Jul 2014, 22:36
Location: Suffolk
Name:

Re: Pete's Workshop Build

Postby Malc2098 » 04 Sep 2020, 14:06

...but it works!
Malcolm
User avatar
Malc2098
Sequoia
 
Posts: 7207
Joined: 03 Jul 2016, 11:10
Location: Tiverton
Name: Malcolm

Re: Pete's Workshop Build

Postby Peteh » 26 Oct 2020, 21:36

It's been some time since any updates. We managed most of September away in the caravan in Hamble and the New Forest which proved to be a well earned break from all the building work going on at the house and with the workshop.

Since we returned we have tiled the new porch floor and had all the electrics fitted for the en-suite and the porch extension.

Progress has also been excellent on the Workshop but thankfully it's all been a little routine. Lots of painting of cladding and we now have only a couple of boards left to fit.

We also moved inside and insulated the rafters with 100mm Xtratherm. Sealed it all up with expanding foam. Bought a proper gun from Screwfix and it's a totally different proposition than when I last used expanding foam a couple of decades ago. So much more controllable.

Have now got half of the OSB board on as the ceiling.

Plus the "Hobbit" arrived from Salamander stoves so all cosy and warm and a "pathway" for any failed woodworking projects!!!

A few pictures below.

IMG_20201018_164431.jpg
(371.8 KiB)


In fact I can't find other pictures so will need to take some more tomorrow...
Peteh
Seedling
 
Posts: 42
Joined: 14 May 2020, 08:50
Name:

Re: Pete's Workshop Build

Postby Malc2098 » 26 Oct 2020, 22:12

Result!
Malcolm
User avatar
Malc2098
Sequoia
 
Posts: 7207
Joined: 03 Jul 2016, 11:10
Location: Tiverton
Name: Malcolm

Re: Pete's Workshop Build

Postby Mike G » 27 Oct 2020, 08:47

Are you putting in a floating floor, Pete? I'm looking at your threshold detail....
User avatar
Mike G
Sequoia
 
Posts: 9833
Joined: 30 Jul 2014, 22:36
Location: Suffolk
Name:

Re: Pete's Workshop Build

Postby Peteh » 27 Oct 2020, 09:51

Very good question.

A floating floor? Leave the concrete as-is? Paint the concrete or resin treat the concrete. I've been around this question a thousand times and yes, the profile is for a floating floor and I actually have all of the timber cut at 75 x 50mm (actual not nominal) such that I can frame the Xtratherm PIR insulation.

BUT

"Background"

The 5m x 4m slab is 100mm in depth and reinforced. Mike has already commented that I'm taking a risk here and I should have gone 25 - 50mm deeper.

I also used a "Big Blue float" too enthusiastically and the top mm of large areas de-laminated pretty early on (picture below) so it's far from a perfect finish. The remaining floated finish is hard to remove...

Hence the dilemma. I'm thinking a floating floor will spread any loads and might help protect the less than perfectly sized slab. It will cover up the concrete surface.

At odds with that is what might happen if the edges of the concrete absorb small amounts of water. Right now I guess it dries into the room but with a floating floor, there will no doubt be a real mess of mould etc if the floor absorbs any moisture.

Or with a bit more work I could screed it with a 50mm screed and reinforced with fibre glass pins but I feel that might just create more stress on the slab edge where the screed and dwarf wall meet but aren't bonded together.

So I don't know what to do!

IMG_20201027_081756.jpg
(405 KiB)
Peteh
Seedling
 
Posts: 42
Joined: 14 May 2020, 08:50
Name:

Re: Pete's Workshop Build

Postby Peteh » 12 Nov 2020, 11:23

Did anyone have any thoughts about the floor finish dilemma?

Particularly do you think any concrete moisture via penetration through the single skin wall or exposed concrete slab sides will cause problems with damp and mould under a floating floor?
Peteh
Seedling
 
Posts: 42
Joined: 14 May 2020, 08:50
Name:

Re: Pete's Workshop Build

Postby 9fingers » 12 Nov 2020, 11:31

Trouble with adding a floating floor is that any moisture that does penetrate the concrete, can't dry out by breathing so I'd put a dpm under your floor, polythene sheet or I've used synthaprufe bitumen emulsion, messy but very effective.

Bob
Information on induction motors here
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dBTVXx ... sp=sharing
Email:motors@minchin.org.uk
User avatar
9fingers
Petrified Pine
 
Posts: 10035
Joined: 21 Jul 2014, 20:22
Location: Romsey Hampshire between Southampton and the New Forest
Name: Bob

Re: Pete's Workshop Build

Postby clogs » 12 Nov 2020, 17:48

think I would just use a Latex leveling screed for the finish...
not sure a 50mm concrete screed on top of the slab would work that well...
not read the whole storey but whats under the slab anyway.....
wacked, crushed stone....? or mud.....?
if ur only useing the average wood machines u'll be OK....not so if u plan to use the heavy large old Wadkin type machines....
I would never lay a reinforced concrete floor thiner than 200mm anywhere......

my new workshop of 200m2 will get a floor of 250mm thick, as it will have 2 car lifts and the heavy engineering machines and reg use of a 3.5 ton fork lift plus the load.....
clogs
Sapling
 
Posts: 258
Joined: 02 Oct 2020, 07:18
Location: Crete, Greece
Name:

Re: Pete's Workshop Build

Postby Peteh » 13 Nov 2020, 10:08

9fingers wrote:Trouble with adding a floating floor is that any moisture that does penetrate the concrete, can't dry out by breathing so I'd put a dpm under your floor, polythene sheet or I've used synthaprufe bitumen emulsion, messy but very effective.

Bob


Hi Bob, Thanks. I could go with a lightweight plastic membrane and floating floor. Agree that any moisture would be an issue.
Peteh
Seedling
 
Posts: 42
Joined: 14 May 2020, 08:50
Name:

Re: Pete's Workshop Build

Postby Peteh » 13 Nov 2020, 10:12

clogs wrote:think I would just use a Latex leveling screed for the finish...
not sure a 50mm concrete screed on top of the slab would work that well...
not read the whole storey but whats under the slab anyway.....
wacked, crushed stone....? or mud.....?
if ur only useing the average wood machines u'll be OK....not so if u plan to use the heavy large old Wadkin type machines....
I would never lay a reinforced concrete floor thiner than 200mm anywhere......

my new workshop of 200m2 will get a floor of 250mm thick, as it will have 2 car lifts and the heavy engineering machines and reg use of a 3.5 ton fork lift plus the load.....


Will look into the self levelling screed in a bit more detail. Looks like it would provide a nice finish.

Under the slab is 50mm sand blinding on top of 100mm compacted hardcore on top of DPM and there won't be any old really heavy machinery on it. I don't normally cut corners so don't really know what possessed me to only go with a 100mm slab!
Peteh
Seedling
 
Posts: 42
Joined: 14 May 2020, 08:50
Name:

Re: Pete's Workshop Build

Postby bluebirdnick » 24 Nov 2020, 12:03

I may be telling you things you already know, but not all SLCs are designed to work as a finished floor. Most are not, but some are. I was going to do this too for reasons similar to yours. I've used Ardex K 301 before which does the job and there are other (cheaper) products out there too which can be put down as a finished floor, but I wouldn't use standard SLC unless you plan to cover it with something.
bluebirdnick
New Shoots
 
Posts: 112
Joined: 13 Jun 2017, 22:33
Location: Herts
Name:

Re: Pete's Workshop Build

Postby Peteh » 08 Feb 2021, 22:32

It's been a while but just finished the house extensions and the en-suite is fully operational. We are pleased with the outcome so now back to the Workshop.

The decision over the floor has been made. We are installing a floating floor of 50mm Xtratherm framed with 3x2 timber which we'd ordered with the cladding from Luton Green sawmill.

I'm intrigued with measurements. We are using 50mm insulation but standard framing timber is ex-50mm more like 45mm. How on earth do builders handle this discrepancy if the insulation is typically a few millimetres thicker than the timber??

Anyhow, work is progressing in the freezing temperatures with the wood burner working flat out. The good lady wife lending a hand to manoever the timber flooring.

IMG_20210208_151557.jpg
(111.04 KiB)
Last edited by Peteh on 09 Feb 2021, 14:16, edited 6 times in total.
Peteh
Seedling
 
Posts: 42
Joined: 14 May 2020, 08:50
Name:

Re: Pete's Workshop Build

Postby RogerS » 08 Feb 2021, 22:34

Peteh wrote:...
I'm intrigued with measurements. We are using 50mm insulation but standard framing timber is ex-50mm more like 45mm. How on earth do builders handle this discrepancy if the insulation is typically a few millimetres thicker than the timber??
...


Whatever is put on top compresses it, I guess.
If opportunity doesn't knock, build a door.
User avatar
RogerS
Petrified Pine
 
Posts: 13283
Joined: 21 Jul 2014, 21:07
Location: Nearly finished. OK OK...call me Pinocchio.
Name:

Previous

Return to Workshop Builds

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 8 guests

cron