TrimTheKing wrote:...when I have my shop done I will definitely be building one as I have projects in mind to utilise finger joints.
So you'll be using 9finger joints then Mark?
I know, I know, I'm sorry.
Terry.
It is currently 30 Mar 2024, 08:22
TrimTheKing wrote:...when I have my shop done I will definitely be building one as I have projects in mind to utilise finger joints.
Wizard9999 wrote:TrimTheKing wrote:...when I have my shop done I will definitely be building one as I have projects in mind to utilise finger joints.
So you'll be using 9finger joints then Mark?
I know, I know, I'm sorry.
Terry.
Wizard9999 wrote:I'm as keen as anyone to see Bob's all singing, all dancing adjustable jig. But if anyone is after just getting some box joints made quickly I think this guy talks sense.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=NutwD7B6tmE
I actually made a jig like this. My only issue is that seasonal movement in the components mean it does not maintain the accuracy at the time of manufacture. I am thinking of making a replacement but using those plastic chopping boards from Ikea (that I have seen used as runners) for the finger as that should be completely stable.
Terry.
Malc2098 wrote:Am watching the UBJJ with interest. I've got no experience of them, nor a 'shop to make or use one in yet, but am still following with interest.
BTW, I have a Jaguar X Type estate; had two EGR's go, the first within 13 months!! The main dealer said I was too gentle with the engine and not getting it hot enough, so it would gum up.
So I turned into a hooligan driver after the 2nd one went and it's been good for 100K miles!
I also use diesel additive now.
Malc2098 wrote:It is said that the X type, the Mondeo and the Mazda 6 share 60% of their parts!
Good luck with the jig. Still following!
RogerS wrote:I'm also sitting quietly in the corner
Re your EGR...do you not have one of those gizmo's that plugs into the diagnostic socket and an app on your phone? I've reset many a glitch...saved me £££££
9fingers wrote:OK chaps now I have some jobs out of the way, been out to lunch with mates etc it time for the next installment.
Firstly I would suggest you look at this video https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=NutwD7B6tmE mainly about the fit and glue clearances etc.
This is how I plan that the my jig would be used.
Take the width of the boards you want to join and decide the number of pins and sockets you want to use this can be for a symmetrical joint ( each end different) or asymetrical ( both ends the same).
work out the socket width and set the dado to cut that. If you are router based or simply stacking saw blades.
Then you might want to adjust the stock size around your achievable cut width.
Set the blade height to the board thickness or very slightly more - certainly no less. Lock the height adjustment.
Take a pre-prepared backer board of constant thickness and hold on the jig fence and make a cut in a single pass.
Remove the backer set aside to be used as the reference for the socket width.
Set the left hand guide to be slightly more than the socket width.
Take a piece of scrap just less that twice the width of the socket. Make sure the end is cut off square.
Push that against the left hand side of the left hand guide and pass though the saw.
Try the resulting pin in the socket cut in the backer board.
Adjust the left hand guide as required to a fit in the socket that is smooth and has an allowance for glue.
Tighten up the left hand guide, fit the backer over both guide pins and move the right hand guide leftwards as far as it will go. Check the backer slides on and off the pair of pins nicely and is not flexing the pins.
Tighten the right hand guide.
Now you are ready to run a test set of box joint cuts in the conventional way as per most of the video on this type of pin jig and see how they fit and how the pins and sockets are distributed across your chosen stock width.
So far this is all theoretical but I think it should work and hopefully I will not need to change the above.
For those of you intending to make a jig for your router tables then omit the right hand orange guide strip and position the left hand one to suit the slot in your router table.
If like me you don't have any guide slots, push the router fence as far away from the cutter as possible and lock it. Just make the jig fence part of the design and arrange to run that against the surface of the table fence.
That's it for now folks.
Have you noticed? Not a measurement in sight for setting up. Everything is driven by the fit of the pin in the socket.
Bob
9fingers wrote:OK chaps now I have some jobs out of the way, been out to lunch with mates etc it time for the next installment.
Firstly I would suggest you look at this video https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=NutwD7B6tmE mainly about the fit and glue clearances etc.
This is how I plan that the my jig would be used.
Take the width of the boards you want to join and decide the number of pins and sockets you want to use this can be for a symmetrical joint ( each end different) or asymetrical ( both ends the same).
work out the socket width and set the dado to cut that. If you are router based or simply stacking saw blades.
Then you might want to adjust the stock size around your achievable cut width.
Set the blade height to the board thickness or very slightly more - certainly no less. Lock the height adjustment.
Take a pre-prepared backer board of constant thickness and hold on the jig fence and make a cut in a single pass.
Remove the backer set aside to be used as the reference for the socket width.
Set the left hand guide to be slightly more than the socket width.
Take a piece of scrap just less that twice the width of the socket. Make sure the end is cut off square.
Push that against the left hand side of the left hand guide and pass though the saw.
Try the resulting pin in the socket cut in the backer board.
Adjust the left hand guide as required to a fit in the socket that is smooth and has an allowance for glue.
Tighten up the left hand guide, fit the backer over both guide pins and move the right hand guide leftwards as far as it will go. Check the backer slides on and off the pair of pins nicely and is not flexing the pins.
Tighten the right hand guide.
Now you are ready to run a test set of box joint cuts in the conventional way as per most of the video on this type of pin jig and see how they fit and how the pins and sockets are distributed across your chosen stock width.
So far this is all theoretical but I think it should work and hopefully I will not need to change the above.
For those of you intending to make a jig for your router tables then omit the right hand orange guide strip and position the left hand one to suit the slot in your router table.
If like me you don't have any guide slots, push the router fence as far away from the cutter as possible and lock it. Just make the jig fence part of the design and arrange to run that against the surface of the table fence.
That's it for now folks.
Have you noticed? Not a measurement in sight for setting up. Everything is driven by the fit of the pin in the socket.
Bob
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