It is currently 28 Mar 2024, 16:46
Malc2098 wrote:Looks nice, Michael.
If you were to offer to make to order, I'm pretty certain there wouldn't be a shortage of customers.
9fingers wrote:How do you stop the leather absorbing atmospheric moisture and actually accelerating rust?
Maybe once shaped and dried, the leather can be soaked in something water resistant? Dubbin perhaps.
Just wondering
Bob
Woodbloke wrote:As a matter of interest, the old plastic chisel covers that used to be supplied with the tool don't appear to be made any more. When I took a few into Penny Farthing Tools when they were still in Salisbury, the bloke behind the counter nearly took my arm off when I mentioned what I had in my little paper bag - Rob
MY63 wrote:Hi Dave
I used 3 mm Mr Chickadee look to be using 5mm anything over 2mm would be good I am going to sort out a list if you can hang on until it rains and I can’t work outside. If you need to buy some don’t buy belly leather as it stretches as you might expect.
I folded mine as I thought the chisel would cut through the stitches.
I am going to restart the tutorial as this one is so tight I will have to cut it off the chisel I am thinking of 2 mm per side for clearance.
My first plan was to use Keydex a Thermo plastic as a liner you heat it and mould it around a form or the object in the case of a chisel.
After moulding I wrap it in leather in the USA it is often used to protect blades.
StevieB wrote:
Do you mean this type of thing? Plenty of others on a google search, or have I got the wring end of the sharp bladed thing?!
https://www.rutlands.co.uk/sp+hand-tool ... mhg+dk6000
Woodster wrote:I think Kydex on its own would work very well although it would be much wider due to the need to rivet it.
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