by Eric the Viking » 24 Dec 2020, 09:12
For what it's worth, I share your frustration: I have a Stanley #50, given to me by my father-in-law, who, I think, was also frustrated by it. Even after a bit of practice, it still takes me bloomin' ages to get the two sides parallel, even with the aid of digital calipers. And yes, the various set screws and the adjuster don't want to stay put.
I think there's a good reason why "Saint Roy" used other models, which were also carefully set up off camera, rather than the #50. Mine looks posh - it has the rosewood handle insert - but it is hard work, and, IIRC, the #45 has a threaded cutter height adjuster rather than the lever, which is a lot better. At one point I considerd modifying my #50, but there's really nowhere you could easily fit any sort of thread to do the same task.
All that said, I have got more used to it, and better at sharpening the cutters, too. I almost dare use it for "production" work now... :-0
I have a suspicion that the initial customers for it were already adept at using moulding planes, and it probably scored for convenience (packs up smaller than a box of moulders).
Back to AndyT, who always has sage thoughts on such matters...
E.
PS: I have wasted a lot of good hardwood offcuts playing with the beading cutters. They remind me of those early computer games, where you could never overcome the dragon on level five, as it always did something differently nasty.