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Tez's Workshop Build

Roll up, roll up. Here you will find everything from new workshop designs, through builds to completed workshop tours. All magnificently overseen by our own Mike G and his tremendously thorough 'Shed' design and generous advice.

Re: Tez's Workshop Build

Postby tabs » 09 Jul 2018, 21:11

Apparently that joist size in C24 timber(whatever that is?) will support 1.02 kN per sq M imposed load which I think equates to 100kg per sq M.
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Re: Tez's Workshop Build

Postby Malc2098 » 09 Jul 2018, 21:25

Sorted, it seems!

From the net --- C24 graded Premium structural timber is a stronger, more demanding grade and has fewer/smaller knots than C16. C24 is best used where higher loads or wider spans are required. C24 will carry a higher point load than C16 grade.
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Re: Tez's Workshop Build

Postby 9fingers » 09 Jul 2018, 22:20

tabs wrote:Thanks Malcolm, will take a look. I've found a site that gives joist sizes for flat roofs which is near enough what I will be doing.It says 50x150mm at 600mm centres will do a span of upto 2.97m so will do my 2.4 span easily. Just need to find out now whether this would support a green roof of 60-100kg per sq m.

I reckon if you use the tables for floor joists, they will be more than enough for your green roof.
I would never use a green roof personally but everyone to their own :D
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Re: Tez's Workshop Build

Postby tabs » 09 Jul 2018, 22:35

9fingers wrote:
tabs wrote:Thanks Malcolm, will take a look. I've found a site that gives joist sizes for flat roofs which is near enough what I will be doing.It says 50x150mm at 600mm centres will do a span of upto 2.97m so will do my 2.4 span easily. Just need to find out now whether this would support a green roof of 60-100kg per sq m.

I reckon if you use the tables for floor joists, they will be more than enough for your green roof.
I would never use a green roof personally but everyone to their own :D
Bob


Thanks Bob, hadn't thought of it that way! OF course floor joists are carrying a lot of weight!!
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Re: Tez's Workshop Build

Postby tabs » 09 Jul 2018, 22:36

Malc2098 wrote:Sorted, it seems!

From the net --- C24 graded Premium structural timber is a stronger, more demanding grade and has fewer/smaller knots than C16. C24 is best used where higher loads or wider spans are required. C24 will carry a higher point load than C16 grade.


Cheers will see if I can get some tanalised C24.
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Re: Tez's Workshop Build

Postby will1983 » 10 Jul 2018, 10:40

tabs wrote:
Malc2098 wrote:Sorted, it seems!

From the net --- C24 graded Premium structural timber is a stronger, more demanding grade and has fewer/smaller knots than C16. C24 is best used where higher loads or wider spans are required. C24 will carry a higher point load than C16 grade.


Cheers will see if I can get some tanalised C24.


Tabs do a cost comparison against using C16 at smaller centres. You may find it is cheaper to use more C16 joists than fewer C24 ones. Also remember that the joist centres will need to work with the sheeting dimensions so the joints are fully supported (remember to research the 1220x2440 / 1200x2400 difference from the supplier).

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Re: Tez's Workshop Build

Postby tabs » 13 Jul 2018, 17:29

Thanks Will I'll do that. I take if I do that and as my walls will be at 600 centres I should just tack another length of 4by2 onto the top of the frame?
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Re: Tez's Workshop Build

Postby tabs » 15 Jul 2018, 13:41

Now onto making decision on cladding.Going for horizontal featheredge.

First up what sort of timber?

Cedar, Larch or Douglas Fir

I'm thinking about going for 200mm width to speed up installation and because i kind of like the look of a wider board.

Green or Air Dried?

I'm going to do some reading on the pros and cons of all these choices but am interested in the input of you guys who have experience in this. Cheers.

Rough calculation I need to cover about 26 sq m
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Re: Tez's Workshop Build

Postby tabs » 15 Jul 2018, 13:46

Oh , also looking for recommendations for suppliers . The one I've been looking at to get rough idea of cost says they use pallet couriers so is going to be no good as I assume that means I would need a truck to unload
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Re: Tez's Workshop Build

Postby 9fingers » 15 Jul 2018, 13:53

tabs wrote:Oh , also looking for recommendations for suppliers . The one I've been looking at to get rough idea of cost says they use pallet couriers so is going to be no good as I assume that means I would need a truck to unload


Not necessarily. You sometimes see wagons going around with their own forklift carried on the back so those can unload themselves.


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Re: Tez's Workshop Build

Postby RogerS » 15 Jul 2018, 14:36

tabs wrote:Oh , also looking for recommendations for suppliers . The one I've been looking at to get rough idea of cost says they use pallet couriers so is going to be no good as I assume that means I would need a truck to unload


I unloaded 3 tonnes of oak flooring from the back of one lorry. Nothing to it :D

Personally I hate the smell of Douglas Fir and it makes me gag.
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Re: Tez's Workshop Build

Postby Malc2098 » 15 Jul 2018, 15:00

I got mine from the second nearest sawmills. (The first couldn't make the order).

I saw the log it was going to be cut from and they delivered.

It was Douglas Fir and it didn't make me gag. :D

It was green, and I painted it all fours sides with diluted Bedec barn paint and the three exposed sides with two coats of barn paint.
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Re: Tez's Workshop Build

Postby tabs » 25 Sep 2018, 20:49

Still slow progress but have settled on a supplier for my cladding. ITs a local timber yard just up the road and so I won't be charged delivery. I've placed the order, they ship in Russian Larch and will cut 200mm featheredge boards themselves. I've yet to decide on dimensions of corner and window trims but though maybe 4x1? Its coming to about 30 sq m and will be just over £300.

I've got the frame up now and will post pictures this week.

I've a couple of queries.

1)I'm in the process now of cutting rafters for my single pitched roof and have decided on exposed rafter feet with a japanese shape.I'd also like to have exposed rafters inside the shed so am considering putting sheets of 50mm celotex on top of the OSB roofing sheets, ficxing these with screws and big washers and then using EPDM over this. I thought this would also have the advantages of being quicker to put the roof insulation on and reducing cost as I would not have to use OSB over the inside ceiling. Can anyone see any drawbacks with me using this method.

2) What size screws should I use to fix the OSB roofing sheets? Also can I screw(and with what size) or should I nail the rafters on to the plate?

Thanks
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Re: Tez's Workshop Build

Postby Coolhands » 25 Sep 2018, 21:56

I've lately decided not to use EPDM which I was going to use (I was all keen on it) as over time the lines between boards can show through apparently. If you're going to use it over sheets (and screws with washers) I think they will end up being visible which may look ugly. I'm now thinking I might use GRP system like 'Cure-it'.

Also you will need a vapour control layer between insulation and boards if you use ply etc I believe (from reading, not experience) if you do this arrangement of roof.
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Re: Tez's Workshop Build

Postby RogerS » 26 Sep 2018, 06:36

Coolhands wrote:I... I'm now thinking I might use GRP system like 'Cure-it'.
.....


You might also like to look at East Coast Fibreglass Supplies for alternative prices. I've used them in the past and they are excellent. Currently have four boxes of GRP stuff from them waiting for the orangerie roof.
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Re: Tez's Workshop Build

Postby tabs » 26 Sep 2018, 10:53

Thanks for the response guys. I need to do more research on the EPDM. I did think of of GRP but decided it needed a bit more skill and knowledge than the EPDM but I will take another look at it?

With regard to gaps between boards showing up I was going to fill them with some flexible filler which will still allow expansion of the boards, but if I went with insulation on top of the boards it wouldn't be an issue. As you mentioned though the screws/washers may show up but I'm hoping if I user a thicker EPDM it will not be too bad and also with my roof being at an angle of less than 10 degrees it won't be in view.
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